MaygZ

NOOOOOOOO!!

"Do You zedzed me"?? or "do ?? me"??

Congrats. Photos??

It's sound proofing! It goes behind dash, under carpets and other trim? If you make a mistake or it folds on you, cut that section out and put in another section. Just take your time, work methodically - you'll be fine. Once you've done the floors and firewall, use of cuts to do the inside of the doors! It will cut down a lot of drumming. Don't forget, though, it will reduce the sound of your webers and straight through exhaust!!

That's not a bad drive. I drive from Horsham to Apollo Bay a couple of times a year. Normally turn off at Beaufort, but it's the bits well south of there that are interesting. Also a lot less GOR traffic.

A handful of sticky????? :o

Thankfully I wasn't allowed to touch the camera, but wasn't great at biting my tongue when Ben was near me and filming. I'm sure that some clever editing will get it back to at least an MA rating.

Can I suggest the Big4 park at Wye River. Good Pub, Good little restaurant and beautiful and quiet and .... it's just good and gets us out of Apollo Bay!!

Great news. I had some smart bottomed replies ready, such as "great post" "very informative" etc, BUT it's nearly Christmas so I'll be more charitable and just leave it at Great News!

I think that much of the effect of mat sound-proofing is that it stops the panel from 'drumming' or vibrating. I believe that this is achieved by sticking to the panel. As long as the panel is prevented from flexing, even a tiny 1mm movement will cause noise - (just look at how much noise you can get from a small speaker that will only oscolate a couple of mm?) - then you should be OK. Why aren't you keen to use adhesive? Are you planning on lifting it often? Personally, I would glue it down. m2c - MaygZ

Thanks from me and my Rachael. A great day to meet some good people. Thanks to Lurch, Rev and their families for opening up their home, the grass advice and for the filming.

Gus, you are correct that as a 'P' plater you can't drive a 260 with a V6 engine in it. Technically you can't drive a 260 with a L28 in it either, however the chances a a copper knowing the difference is quite small. The problems would arrise if something wnet wrong and you had a prang (touch wood)). If someone died as a result of the collision, whether your fault or not, the vehicle would be inspected by coppers that would know! Or if no-one was hurt, your insurance co, via the assessor who would know the difference, may well reneg on your claim. Before you say 'but I'm an excellent driver', anyone can have a collision, regardless of skill and experience (eg: sitting at the lights and some-one runs up your bum). I agree with Zedophile, you would be better off, in my opinion, selling your current 260 and buying another one closer to standard. then as you get off your P's (if the car has survived) do it up to your own specs, if that is your want. Does your current car have an engineers cert? Is it registered? Is it registered as a V6? Are you able to even insure it? If so, how much is it costing you? I'm prepared to bet that whilst it will cost you quite a bit to insure a Zed, it will cost even more for one that is modified. It is my advice to any young bloke that'll listen, to hold on to the dream car for 4 years until your off your P's (even 'till after 25 if you can) and drive a boring reliable car in the meantime. P's + boring car = cheaper insurance and less constabulary attention. You earn no-claim credits for the four years and then insure the cool, chick magnet (unless it's a 2+2) at rating 2 or 3 instead of 5 or 6. If it's registered under Mn'D, then you get no credits at all. You earn 1/2 credits with extended third party. Good luck. MaygZ Just saw Peter's post:- It's 125kW/t these figures all relate to unmodified cars. On your P's you can't drive a modified car. 'Modified' hasn't been defined and would technically include a change of wheels or even radio?? I don't think people would be very concerned with mods that don't affect performance, such as interior trim, colour etc, but I'm absolutely certain eye brows would raise when it comes to an engine upgrade!

Loui, I'm possibly about to retire from the 'Zed Hunter' role. I might have finally found my lucky donor ;D ;D Just got to convince SHMBO that it's worth spending money on a complete dump of a car, I mean the donor not the project!! In anticipation of my success, I would like to help all of those that have been patient and supportive. Cheers. MaygZ.

And these two: http://www.carbuddy.com.au/buy/car.aspx?car=1975-DATSUN-260Z-2-2-SPORTS&dealer=CLASSIC-THROTTLE-SHOP-P-L&adid=231235&pg=1&mk=datsun&md=260z&sort=99&tid=38596500#231235 http://www.carbuddy.com.au/buy/car.aspx?car=1977-DATSUN-260Z-2-2-SPORTS&adid=70725&pg=1&mk=datsun&md=260z&sort=99&tid=38596500#70725

Found this one for anyone interested: http://digiads.com.au/carsales/used-cars/USED-1975-DATSUN-260Z-COUPE-CAR-FOR-SALE-BATHURST-NSW-2795.htm#adPhotoTop

That will be a Monday for the rest of us!

Shepparton DECA.

Welcome aboard. Enjoy your time here. MaygZ

Whittie, they adapters for the STI diff are $500. They look awesome. This post goes through almost everything you would want to know about improving the diffs in the Zed, along with the standard "I just thought something so I'll post it". http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/78123-subaru-wrx-sti-r180-side-axles/page__st__100

Welcome Matt. Good to have you abourd. MaygZ

Just found this 2+2 on eBay: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/1976-Datsun-260Z-2-2-17in-Wheels-Very-Good-Cond-240Z_W0QQitemZ120601594852QQcategoryZ35227QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp4340.m263QQ_trkparmsZalgo%3DDLSL%252BPSSI%252BSI%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BUA%252BUCK%26otn%3D10%26pmod%3D320561487474%252B320561487474%26po%3D%26ps%3D63 Nice wheels

He's only got two 240s and he's going to rebuild them both??? ???

Grounded for doing constant burnouts in the 1600??

Your red one? The stock one with the worked motor and the fuel injection system?

Straight swap and it's a deal. Although I would prefer a better motor ;D