dat2kman
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Everything posted by dat2kman
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Get onto a Joe Farmer, 5/240 Lietchs rd Brendale, ring him first. He runs Classoc&MG Restoration. Very old school guy. He is not set up for insurance work, but he can put you onto a mb in Brendale that operates out f 3big sheds, that do a heck f a lot f classic and vintage work, and are setup for insurance work. Gasoline Alley are booked out up to 6 months in advance, your car will just sit and sit! -
Of it actually is a Nissan USA owned vehicle, and, yes, stickers are easily reproduced, it wouod have been one car in a "pool" of many, used for evaluation, as well as driven my the executives and managers in the US. Does not necessarlily prove it s in fact a Mr K car! He would have had access to and driven many!
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Do you want a decent track car, that can also be put on club rego, for tarmac use? Also able to be used at a greater range of events!
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Stew Wilkins can source synchros for those, or has done!
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Rebuild number 1 It'll be more fun to drive. Less engine rpm drop on the gear upchanges. Keep number 2as a spare, even consider using its bellhousing if you were to do an RB/SR conversion Number 2 is a very common box, number 1 is getting hard to find.
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Surprising how much "slop" there is with a 5/8 shanked bolt, versus a 16mm diam bolt. Can use a (very expensive, and very overkill in rating) cap screw/Allen headed shanked bolt rather than hex head. Trim off the excess thread, and if there is the usual gap between bottom of strut casting, and lower control arm inner bush tubes, slide in a suitable thickness washer, this reduces fore/aft slop and potential for knocking noises.
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Stew Wilkins or Lou Mondello have plenty of new ones. If enquiring at a Nissan dealer, only quote the part number, never what its from, as most dealer spares will automatically tell you, "sorry, tyat is an old car, nothing available,,,"
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30ton ram press, and a lot of heat. Just did two recently. Tried all the above, the 3/4" bit of threaded rod did move one, by 5mm, but they just bind up. Be prepared for lots of straining on the shop press, it will let go. I ended up hacksawing the end bits, between lower arem and strut base, those end bits then fall out, its tye strut base that is reasonably easy to then hold in a press.
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Always an dea to pull bellhousing ff and do a toothcount, as, due to time, and various mechanical work, bellhousings can and do get swapped! Yes, go with the 2.9 first gear gearset, much sweeter!
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Yes, seen plenty of 71B type, with LH thread, and some short ext housing ( "Stumpy") ones. Some ealy boxes used a single plain nut with a thickish tab ring, that you hammered over onto a flat, others used two thin nuts that were tightened ( these come undone too easily) Worst of all is the ham-fisted repairer, who just welds the nut onto the mainshaft,,,,,,,,,,
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Ummm, yes. Go for single/linear rate springs!
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Swap out that particular spring for one that compensates for the weight variation, therwise your car will be jacked up/dropped down, in rder to get them right. Try to get side to side as well as diagonal all as close as pissible, they never will be, but see how you go. My race car is within 10-12 kgs all around.
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Maybe it's just so they can use the 91mm MLS Nismo head gaskets! You watch, they'll be chasing sonic tests for 90-91mm bores now,,,,,,,,
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Have you converted the stock 2000 wheel studs from 7/16" 20 TPI to 12.2mmx1.25 pitch?
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Welcome to 2015 Once the few remaining decent reconditioned, or vg examples of 240Z's dry up, as they are doing right now, Watch the prices of good cond 260Z 2 seaters start to skyrocket. Supply vs demand. Buy up as many 260Z's as you can, and stop being so niicky about minor naccuracies.
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Early type round top carbies fitted to the UK cars? Possibly left overs and no onerous emmssions laws in the UK compared to the USA?
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It'll be a 3.321 first.
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42cc chambers on that one!
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2 to 2.5 mm f clearance hey! Must be some movement going on, unless it's girdled,,,,, ( actually there is, at 1.0 mm clearancing, there is evidence of touching marks on a smoothly ground and painted interior surface, from the big end caps! Bit of walking going on, no girdle fitted,,,,,)
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Only way to find out is to dummy assemble crank and rods into blck, and check. Die grind only where needed, and the minimum of amount.
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That is a service that is hard to find! I am doing exactly this for a fellow Qld member of this forum.
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Check out the lap records for Group S car! One J. Lea, Datsun 280Z Morgan Pk, Lakeside, and QR Clubman, fastest lap in class! There ya go, now your turn to impress us with your race results,,,,,,,,
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Murray Coote Automotive, a Datsun rally guy, from the dinsaur ages. Knows his stuff. Very good Bilstein revalver and rebuilder guy too.
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Ummm, yes, we do that, plenty of times. We also sometimes do a handicap scratch race, reverse grid, off lqualifying times. The organiser/handicapper intention, is to have all cars finish across the line, at same time,,,, This never happens,,,, Last few years we have done the reverse grid handicap, naturally, as I was on pole, or front row, i'd get a 65-70 second " hold" and then go chase everyone down. And managed to win quite a few of those! Buy a Historic car, and come and play, all over Australia, lots of races, lots of tracks, lots of fun!
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Acrow builders house props, two nuts, weld spring perch to one of the nuts. Machine ID so it just slips over strut tube. Couple spot welds top and bottom. The nuts are able to be thinned a bit, so that they have smooth flat faces. Bit rough, but somewhat low cost!
