RB30X

Ahhhhhhh ha. This is good news. Thankyou. I guess I won't have to worry about installing one at all then.

I've been fixing up the wiring in my car and one of the things I've noticed is I don't have a hazard light switch, or even any wiring for one. Obviously i will need one to get a rwc From what I can tell I need a special hazard light switch, and a hazard light relay to splice into the existing indicator wiring. Can anyone provide some useful info to help me restore this function. I'm also considering replacing the existing glass fuse holder for a blade fuse type holder. This would involve re wiring the new blade fuse holder using the existing wiring as part of the tidy up. Where is the existing holder supposed to mount? Mine is behind the radio vent panel atm. One of the main reasons I want to remove to glass fuse box is the clear top cover is missing and it keeps arcing out on the brackets due to terminals touching on the front and the back. Cheers

A few of my guys rocked up an hour early for work today cause their phones automatically read forward an hour so their alarms went off early. Now I'm going to have to let them go home an hour early.

Yep me. There are previous threads about them. Sent you a pm.

Nice work guys. Did you have some fluid in the carb floats?, sounded a bit flat when you were trying to rev it. But I guess you hadn't really checked the timing or anything as it was only first start. Gotta be happy with that for a cheap L28.

Well today the Zed called for me to become an Auto Electrician as I had reached 'fix healights' on my 'things to do before rwc' list. They have never worked although the rears do, the dash does and the front indicator park lights do as well. It was a tricky one as I had not long ago tied back all the wiring under the dash. It ended up being a hairline crack in the solder at the back of the indicator/high beam switching mechanism. So I'm pretty stoked as I can tick another one off my list. I also bought some small lights from Jaycar to make some indicator and high beam indication lights. I hope to make it look something similar to the pic below. I've replace the spark plugs and my engine has 8 cylinders again. Still spitting belts though even though I spaced the tensioner out by a few mm's to line up with the rest of the pulleys. Maybe my laser level (eye) needs calibrating. I ordered a billet Corvette C6 pulley from the states which has higher wall on the pulley itself so if that doesn't work, I might buy an adjustable tensioner that stays solid once adjusted just like most other engines have. This is what happens on the road when you stab it.

Well obviously they're were getting into it and you don't see what happened just before the incident but the Z was as far right on the track as he could go and the other bloke hit him almost in a sore loser fashion.

When you regrind the valve seat like that (backyard style) don't you put the valve in the right way with the grinding paste on on the seating surface then spin? You look like your doing it the other way around.

I got a set of the ones like are on ebay at the moment but through the actual company that makes them and I asked for ignition, 3 x door locks and a fuel filler flap all keyed alike. I hoped that some locksmith mob would be able to fit the barrel from the spare one into the boot release one.

Two different diameter tyres on the rear is NOT good for your diff.

I got a Porsche one just like tht from Ed Harry. Might go back in there and see if they can get this one.

Those front Tyres aren't very wide.

I don't know why you think you will get flamed for going for this firing order route with the headers. It makes perfect sense, it will increase scavenging of the exhaust gases and probably sound unbelievable. Tell the guy who makes it to make a few sets as I'm sure the are people here that would buy them

In my 240Z the threads for the top seat belt anchor point are either damaged or it looks like someone has tried to weld a new thread where the old one was unsuccessfully. Does someone have info on the rules and regs etc for alternative seat belt mounts/anchor points? I currently have the anchor point bolted down to one of the rear strut bolts which also has the rear strut brace on it as well. I want to start looking at what I need to do for a RWC. Cheers

Are you on a scouting misssion Rev? Possible imports etc?

I've got a set with otomoto coil overs already installed "gasp"

I've got a set of rears for sale. I also have a set of fronts with bens coilovers already installed "gasp".

United state of what?

Do you have a recipe for that?

I think its very japanese war plane style now, and I like it.

Might as well leave the six in there Scoot, you really need LS power.

I bolted everything up properly today and it fits lovely. I also have a confession to make. Someone called round my house with a car exactly the same as mine in everyway except his car was registered and mine isn't. So I decided to take this 'other' 240z for a drive to see how it went, now that it had oil pressure and water temp gauges all working. This required the suspension to be raised a bit since the last time he drove it out of his shed as it was way too low. So I put on my driving hat and as soon as I took off down the street it appeared it was running on a lot less than 8 cylinders which didn't surprise me as the plug leads had come on and off a few times and they are prone to disintergrating, and the plugs have never been changed (from what he tells me ). 'We' did do some initial fault finding with a temp gun on the headers to see which cylinder wasn't firing but they were all hot at idle as the miss wasn't apparent until it was under load. So I drive off in this V6 and three quarters, and damn this thing still has some balls. I was under the impression that it had 3.? something gears in the R200 but I was changing gears a lot more often than my clubsport and it had 3.73's. Anyway it accelerates well, handles well, brakes well (after the paint was rubbed off the rotors) and it sounds nice. I did learn a few things however. First being the accelerator pedal position in comparison with the brake and clutch pedal. With the chair in the correct position to operate both the later, my leg is too cramped or too bent to operate the throttle, resulting in sore feet muscles. If I was to move the chair back so my right leg is comfortable, I'm too far away from the brake and clutch pedal. Secondly, an issue prone to LS1's is the belt tensioner operation. When I swapped to an underdrive pulley on my previous LS1 the new belt length was shorter but the tensioner wasn't in the exact preloaded position it normally operates in. Hence it threw a few belts. The other reason could be the balancer has come off at some stage and hasn't gone back on completley in line. The issue is when you stab it and the crank balancer accelerates the belt speed so quickly over the other pulleys, the tensioner takes up the slack. Except, when it compresses it becomes somewhat out of alignment and allows a belt rib or two to jump off the pulley. Now I did give it a big stab on the last stretch to my house, and as I was putting into my back yard it started getting hot so I kind of knew where the belt would be, so a quick drive back in one of my registered cars and I picked it up. Here is a good clip to show how the tensioner moves around: Magnuson 122 Supercharger produces 759 ft/lbs and So its a new custom sized belt for me, as well as plugs and if that doesn't help, new leads. I'm hesitant to get new leads as Peter and I are cooking up a coil relocation mod which would require longer plug leads anyway. In regards to the paint, I sanded the painted surface with 2000 grit foams pads which were wet. On the bigger surfaces I used a machine but the light surrounds and spoiler were done by hand. Then after drying that off I used kitten or some type of car polish, not a cut and polish, just polish. Is this right? cheers

I put the newly painted front guards, bonnet, front spoiler, battery inspection flaps and front valance on yesterday, and I must admit I'm not completely happy. Firstly I didn't use a clear coat after being talked out of it by the paint shop guys. They said it would be right with a cut and polish and thats all. I was there to by clear and they talked me out of it. I cut and polished as suggested but I think the finish now is either the same if not less glossy than the 'off the gun' finish :'( Secondly, I don't exactly know what I was expecting after looking a million photos of all white zeds but now I think its too white? Maybe this is a denial stage that I will get through. Also, when re-installing the LH headlamp someone accidently dropped it onto the concrete while I wasn't watching and it smashed into a million tiny pieces. I thought, no worries I've got a million 280zx headlamps there I'll throw one of those in cause they're the same. No they're not. They are flat where as the 240Z ones have more of a dome shape. Without even looking yet, are these sealed beams available anywhere? 280zx headlamp installed in LH position in pics below.

What if you aren't on facebook and want to enter :'(

I looked at those and thought they wouldn't be too hard to make as well.