garvice

Not a hobby if you make money out of it zzzed.

I think Dilbert is onto something. Don't think anyone has ever said cars were a logical or sensible hobby.

Wrong forum Lurch.

Nice! I've always wanted my z orange. Think I'll paint the 1600 Orange as a trial.

Any reason, or just to be different? Hatch has a bit of a curve to it, so like the regular hinges it would need to pull the hatch up and away from the side. This would make the hinge design a little low and back sitting in the boot area, will move into the area a little for the lower hinge.

I think that would have to be one of the first logos for a "Classic" metal shop that featured a Z. Like it!

Good luck with it Ledge. $45 an hour seems ludicrously cheap for an hourly rate covering overheads too (is it just you?). Then again, car owners are often ludicrously tight (which is probably why I am learning to do my own work, ha).

2 seater or 2+2?

Had this problem with the rear wheel arch (on a 1600). This was the final panel welded in Unfortunately I didn't take many in progress photos. So to try and show you what I did, I went out tonight and recreated it with cardboard. Please note, I didn't use cardboard as a template, the cardboard you see is just representative of what I did in metal. Started by making a quick form out of 1/4" rod which matched the upper curve of the wheel arch to get a bit of a curve started in the metal. I then did a very quick bend over the form, I only got a very small shape into the metal, but did concentrate on making larger dints where you see the little black dots. This was so that I could clamp it closely to the wheel arch and use the wheel arch as a hammer form. I then clamped it to the flare like this and started working on folding the bottom flange under. I did this with lots of quick light taps on the v marks. I also didn't fold it all the way under, probably got to about a 45deg section to start with (as you fold the flange under it wants to buckle away from the wheel arch). Then I worked on the edge of the wheel arch to get the metal back towards the wheel arch (had only come out a couple of mm). Then lots of little taps on the top of the wheel arch, and all over. I basically went back and forward, top and bottom and on the wheel arch all over the place. Using the wheel arch as a hammer form worked great. I then cut it out using a large radius (thanks for the tip Ledge, helped minimise distortion) and welded it in. More photos can be found on the build thread http://the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=24424&start=15#p209195 Apologies if there are too many photos. I found that a light (200gram) ball pein hammer was best for this job. Used the ball part for the top of the wheel arch and the flat for the bottom and front of the flange. The ball pein came in handy as even the flat section has a bit of a radius around the edges so it didn't leave any hard marks. I also started this panel trying to use a stretcher, but since mine only stretches the first inch of the metal I couldn't get it to stretch that large radius of the wheel arch.

You have very feminine legs there mate.

I really enjoy threads like these. Looking forward to end result.

Ha, I was thinking the same thing

Does that count as using a phone while driving? Ha. Our did your passenger reach over and take a driver's side view photo?

My 3.2t hoist has 7 m12 bolts per leg. Don't underestimate what is required in hold down bolts. Lifting the car off centre puts big moments on base plates and only a few bolts.

Personally I like Chemsets but my father in law prefers mechanical expansion bolts. Each to his own

Chemsets are a chemically fixed anchor (threaded bolt glued into concrete) as supposed to a mechanical expansion anchor (dynabolt). Both have there uses. More importantly than which type to use is probably dat2kman.s response of using a decent anchor rather then the Chinese bolt that it will come with. Ramset and hiltI make both types

Had a quick look tonight and couldn't find it. I'm sure it is there as I don't normally throw car parts out (still have the useless drive shaft). If no one else can help you i.'ll do a better look later in the week. Brad

I'm pretty sure I still have mine, will go check tonight for you. No cost if I can find it. Brad

I've had an R32 gtr booster in my shed from the half cut for a couple of years with the intention of doing this very thing. Only thing I had never checked was whether the travel was the same on both boosters? Not sure if they change the travel length or not or whether every booster is the same length etc. Worth a check as it might mean changing the pivot point on the pedal or putting a stop on the brake (or bending the brake lever so it bottoms out quicker) etc.

Don't be afraid of rust Tim, it's not very hard, 1600s are pretty flat panel wise. http://the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=24424

What samsung covers can you get? I'm looking at the new S3 as the next phone, might get something for the misses/myself.

Would it be worth making it forklift friendly (I.E. some supports where the forks go) then so that it can be easily unloaded at the workshops?

What is the reasoning behind the frame?

I even do the rust repair panels in mine before I weld then in.figure it is better then hitting with flapper disc and potentially removing metal.

Oh yeah with mine I found it was easy enough to stand up each leg (though it was from a ute not a trailer) and then we just crab walked the legs to where they needed to go. Managed to do it pretty much by myself once I worked out how to maneuver it.