Brabham

Looking for a front windscreen for 240/260Z. Doesn't matter if it is cracked or chipped, let me know what you have. Cheers

Good work Jeff, my 2+2 bonnet had rusted all along the edges in a similar spot, although one side was a lot worse than the other for some unknown reason. After I use up my supply of POR-15 I will be switching to the KBS, since it is Australian made, I imagine they are both a similar composition though. Cheers.

Looks good Rudi. What did you use to cut out the rounded corners on the panel before you cut it with the cut off wheel? Was it a holes aw or step drill? Keep at it. Cheers

If your engine is original it may be worth rebuilding - do you still have the original (matching numbers) engine? This will boost the value of your car. Cheers

+1 for those two

Try Datsun spirit

No worries Gav, a lot of it comes down to personal preference too. Don't worry if it is not 100% perfect, there will always be a skim of filler on pretty much every panel. I am a perfectionist too, but I can only get it so close before I run out of talent! I just wasn't happy with the level of distortion I was getting from oxy and found I could minimise later work by making the patch as correct as possible and keeping it as cool as possible while welding it in. Each to their own, and I am impressed by the level of skill the TAFE teachers have after oxy welding and planishing in being able to get panels pretty much perfect, something we can all aspire to. For surfaces I can access I am using POR15/KBS too, it was only things like the sills and rear hatch that I will be using the fish oil (after painting, of course ). Another thing to keep in mind is that I don't think they let you own acetylene bottles, but you can now own argon ones, so rental gets expensive. Keep up the good work.

http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/Stahlwille-52pc-Metric-Whitworth-Screw-Pitch-Guage-12665-52-/162053508449?nav=SEARCH Or there is this option which I use, quick and easy and still works if there is some damage to the thread

http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/14505-260z-lhs-guards-nos-x-6/ Lucky for you they are LHS!

Looks good Rudi, maybe you can do an episode on unpicking and repairing the hatch hinge area as that is a common rust area on 2+2 models, probably caused by them not having the rubber hinge pockets. There are a few double/triple thicknesses in that area too when you go near the corners. Cheers

There was a guy on here that was selling some NOS repro guards. Have a look in the for sale section.

Looks Good Gav, although are you sure you don't want to go to a MIG, you will put less heat and distortion in the panel and should avoid some of the more serious warping. I did my first lower guard with an oxy and it pulled in, the second I did with a MIG and haven't looked back. The TAFE teachers are old school though and seem to love oxy, but there is a lot of planishing to get out all the distortion created. Vent panel looks very professional. I'd blast the inside again before applying the KBS though, you will still have a textured surface from the blasting. A mix of Tectrol and fish oil may be better for running inside the hatch, I imagine the KBS is a bit on the thick side. I miss TAFE

Depends on what your plans are for the car, if it is for circuit/race, I'd go to composite but the finish will be a bit rough, not important on a race car. If you are restoring it for the road I'd try to save what you have, although labour adds up quickly if your panels are badly damaged. Also will depend on whether you want to keep the flares and if your guards have been cut. If it is practical to save what you have, you may as well use it and you know it will fit your car as it came off it. Good luck

Congrats. Who are you getting to fix the sunroof hole? Cheers

I think they did a 924 turbo. But I'm not sure you'd want to cut that up either. Was thinking more for replacement panels if an existing replica got damaged.

You should buy them Peter, relatively cheap now. Are they the molds your kit is based on, if so it would be a crime not to buy them!

The stuff I buy from Woolies is "open range" so I assume that means they are shooting wild ones. Have heard about the parasite issue, maybe they have to chuck out a fair bit that can't be used. Also a logistics issue getting them from where they are killed and refrigerated quickly which adds to the cost. Can't be too much of an issue though as the price is on par with good beef burgers, meat is really lean too.

I had roo burgers last night too so there are 2 less of them out there. Seems a bit wasteful that we farm cows for meat yet have such an abundance of lean kangaroo meat that they sometimes have to cull them. We should be eating kangaroo more often.

Soda does not remove rust, it only removes paint. If you don't want to do a full ground-up resto you could repair those isolated sections of rust. For doing this, I find a crumpet wheel (clean n strip wheel) works best. Just make sure you move around and don't put too much heat into an area removing paint. Paint stripper is a messy job, and I tend to steer clear of it. I have also used advanced at Brookvale for hanging panels, and have been very happy with their work. If you want to leave it for a long time get them to put it in epoxy primer rather than etch primer.

Good work Rudi, do you use an air gun to cool the panel while welding, I have found this helps. My bus has the same problem with rust in the hatch hinge area, and I was planning to unstitch the panel from the underside, so will be interested to see how you go with that area. Try to take a few pics of it when you do that area for reference. Cheers

Let us know how they get the dents out Gav. I imagine the ice trick may not work as it would expand unevenly and bulge the tank much as when you put a plastic bottle in the freezer. I imagine you would face the same problem with compressed air and it may fail at a weak point. I thought about using the easy-beat to do it but I reckon it would feel like defusing a bomb! You would have to purge it with argon/CO2 I think. How dare you demand modern efficient cooling for the radiator over originality-boooo! Cheers

Or go up to 44mm Mikuni's

New OERs are low quality Chinese made I believe. Spanish Webers are nowhere near as good as those made in Bologna, Italy. Stick to Mikuni's, Italian Webers or Dellorto's. Don't waste money on poor quality stuff!

A good idea is to keep an air gun handy and blast each spot with air after welding. Cools it down a lot quicker and minimises warpage. Still have to space the welds out as you go and cool it regularly, even doing this you will still get a bit of distortion. Cheers

Looks good Jeff. Very similar to the McLaren papaya orange, nice 70's color.