Hunter

Just makes me laugh. I have already got my 40cents and rang someone who cares lol. Anyway.......Just go to Kalgoorlie you will find a job easily just by going to the pubs and asking around.

Due to Lurch's contempt and hostility towards CAPITAL LETTERS, I am re-writing this post as the last one was deleted. Just walk up the street in Kalgoorlie in Western Australia. You will have a job by the 4th pub you visit. That is if you want to work in an Underground or Surface mine. If you can drive a ZED you can drive a MINE TRUCK. P.S. I Apologise for any capitals used in the above quote, I feel they were essential.

I am just a lover of all Zeds

AN ABSOLUTE BARGAIN FOR $3000 I would by this in a heart beat if it was not for the cost of getting it back to Tassie.

POST SOME PICS UP

http://www.xenons130.com/reference.html

Thankyou for all the replys. This will help me. I currently have H4 Lights on one of my 260Z's that I will look at swapping for the time being. I am still going to look for some small diameter round driving lights that I could mount flush in the front spoiler. Possibly up to four (this will change the look of the car, but I think it might look good.)

http://www.hitachi-hap-la.com/TokicoGasShocks/app/19a.html Check this link out it might help.

I really need some decent driving lights for my zed. The original lights just are not good enough on wet dark nights down here in Tassie. I am looking for fairly descrete option that actually light up the road, unlike the high powered candles that are in the Zed. Possibly mounted in the front spoiler. The other OVER THE TOP but AUTHENTIC option may be to put some of those big bulging bonnet lights that you see on the old Zed rally cars. (as in picture below.) Would anyone have any measurements of these? I would appreciate if people could post some pictures up STANDARD LIGHT UPGRADES or AUX DRIVING LIGHTS they have fitted to their zed. Has anyone had any experience with HID vs Halogen?

I just found this on Ebay it is the Carter 4070 Fuel pump recommended on the American website. I am going to buy one and see if it fixes my fuel problems. BONUS IS THE SELLER IS BASED IN AUSTRALIA. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/CARTER-GOLD-FUEL-PUMP-72GPH-FMP4070_W0QQitemZ350107014691QQcmdZViewItem?_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116 It is $134.90 + $10.50 S&H Part Number: FMP4070 Competition Series 72 GPH Performance Pump Features: * 12V negative ground * 72 Gallons per hour free flow * 4-6 PSI operating pressure* * 1/4” NPSF Thread inlet & outlet are up top for easier mounting & hose routing * No leak prone seal between motor and pump body * Liquid cooled motor for longer armature life * Dependable high flow performance for street use Carter Comp Series Electric Fuel Pump 4-6PSI

THIS IS INFORMATION OFF http://www.racetep.com/webfuelspark.html Fuel Pumps and Fuel Pressure: Fuel delivery is critical to the proper performance of any Weber carb. From a basic 32/36 DGEV to a set of Triple Sidedraft DCOE's. Webers rely on a stable full float bowl in order to mix the fuel and air correctly. Mechanical pumps very rarely do this. They pulse fuel instead of giving a smooth even delivery and the amount of fuel varies with engine RPM. A Proper Electric Fuel pump will give the best performance and most stable tuning for any Weber carb application. We use only High Volme and Low Pressure pumps. Webers work best at approx 4 psi of fuel pressure (Not 2 psi like many of the older books stated.) and you need Volume not Pressure to keep the float bowl full. We ONLY use the Carter Rotary pumps. They are High Volume (60-70 GPH) but only 4 psi. This is PERFECT for all Weber applications from a Single 32/36 DGV on a Truck, Jeep or Car to a Triple Sidedraft setup on a Road Race car making 300 HP...This pump DOES NOT and SHOULD NOT use a Pressure Regulator for any reason. That is why we use it.... Carter 4070 Fuel pump with Mounting Bracket kit $95.00 Buy Now Problem Pump and Regulator setups: These are combinations that many of you are using and you could be experiencing problems because of it. Holly Fuel Pumps with Regulator: This is a very common combination and it has alot of problems. The pump puts out too much pressure so you have to buy a regulator for it. The Regulator is just a restrictor that inhibits flow. This causes a huge loss of Volume and overloads the pump causing alot of noise and premature failure. This results in the float bowl going low or empty under hard acceleration and causes cornering problems. Facet Fuel Pump: This is one of those little square pumps with the transistor mounted on top that make a ticking noise all the time. These pumps are TERRIBLE. No volume and High Pressure. These pumps have been sold for many years with Weber and Mikuni conversions and have cause many people alot of tuning problems. They are a pulse type pump that delivers almost no volume (usually less than the stock mechanical pump did) and usually at High Pressure. This cause flooding at idle and lean out conditions under high load. Do not use them....

I am guessing you bought a FACET ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP. I have a RED one which is running on a set of twin su's, The RED FACET PUMP is rated to max 9 PSI. SU carbies prefer a max of 6 PSI The BLUE FACET PUMP is a 4-6PSI pump which may be more suitable. availible from REPCO. I have slight issues using the RED FACET PUMP as I think it is too high a pressure for the su's. If I do not rev the engine it seems to die a little as it is flooding (running rich). HERE IS A RED FACET FUEL PUMP BELOW. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/FACET-SOLID-STATE-ELECTRIC-Fuel-PUMP-7-10-PSI_W0QQitemZ170271678838QQcmdZViewItem?_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116 HERE IS A FACET FUEL PUMP THAT IS RATED FOR 4-5PSI http://cgi.ebay.com.au/facet-electric-fuel-pump_W0QQitemZ300270273444QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item300270273444&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2%7C65%3A1%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318 HERE IS A CARTER ROTARY FUEL PUMP THAT SHOULD BE QUIETER THIS IS LISTED ON AN AMERICAN SITE AND HAS INFO ON THE PAGE. http://www.racetep.com/webfuelspark.html#webfuel

Look up Mayhems gallery or build thread. he has a different sort of tow hook. Here is a cams tow hook on ebay that can be bolted the chassis frame rail. I am not sure id it is the same as Mayhems but looks very similar. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/RACE-CAR-TOW-HOOK-SUIT-RACE-RALLY-DRIFT-RACING-V8_W0QQitemZ190262225260QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item190262225260&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2%7C65%3A1%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

Nah we are the poor second cousin with two heads. But I think all the invites to events were open lol. They just forget to mention us on the Big Island. It would be a nice run over on the SPIRIT we will have the MOST ZEDS ON A BOAT calender page. lol Attached is a calender template The bottom one is one I done up for Australian and Tasmania Holidays. 4766_.zip

Lol looks good.

Got mine, Looks Good and still has plenty of ZED stuff in it.

At least he has a basement garage with ramp now. He only needs to do the concrete and install a door lol.

That would explain why you can only get gear knobs, steering wheels and seat covers from the stores here on the north coast of Tassie. LOL

I am not sure what air resistance the original air filter has compared to a pod filter. But if you took the original air filter out of the air box and installed a pod filter on the end of the hose, It could possibly improve performance a little more. But the way you have it setup now looks good and should be providing cooler air for the engine.

What makes this diff less street friendly that the 3.9? Is the diff 1 way 1.5 way or 2 way?

That $7000 240z makes my 240Z that I just bought look like an extreme bargain.

none of them are availible for sale. EDIT: The hyperlinks need extending.

Hopfully mine comes soon.

Red, Red, Red and more Red.... Looks good and should go fast with all that RED . lol

http://carfiche.com/manuals023/cars/ <<<<<<<<< DOWNLOAD THE FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL HERE. IT IS A 73 240Z MANUAL. BUT IS VERY COMPREHENSIVE. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/ <<<<<<<< CHECK OUT THE SUSPENSION SECTION ON THIS SITE. http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html <<<<<< THERE ARE MORE MANUALS HERE.