Scoota G

Spotted the blue one at the airport when Mater was going to leave and the safari gold one after the flamethrower fight scene in the alley.

Just a few more days and this pony will be done. Fuel tank, dash and interior plus 3 more rust repairs to go. Seeing this car coming back together is hard to describe.

I used the $50 supercheap gun like benny suggested and the bicarb works a treat on alloy, sand is just to harsh on soft metal.

You and i can fix that Lurch but DaMn :'(

Is this the one?

Remember that episode of The Simpsons where homer had a swear jar and tried to bulid a dog house? By the time he was done he failed to do it but there was enough money in the swear jar. This story should be in a movie titled "12 short films about eBay" Seriously i have only ever had one bad transaction on ebay but $500 i think i'd rather suck a western suburbs cab full of ***** than go through this. Whoops that's a bit rude, i'll modify that!

That's from saturdays hearld sun page 108 at the back section called "in black and white" with Terry Brown. I tried scanning the page to make it clearer.

Well this is really one of those yes and no questions. Around the edge near the door it has holes drilled and is puddle welded but in the centre the sheet metal overlaps at least 10 mm. Then it's welded every 50 mm for about 20 mm. And then (dude where's my car) it's welded underneath in the gaps between if that makes sense. It's not a complete weld as such but doing a complete weld would cause too much distortion. It gets covered in seam sealer anyways. Thanks for the encouragement guys, i can't wait to get this one back together so i can finish my own.

Oh well time to reassemble this Ford!~!

To anyone who doubts the power of this service, behold, the front brake setup that came from just outside Brisbane to just outside Melbourne. All hail galderdi, truly well done mate. That's 40 odd kilos of metal there.

Here's a picture of a stock set and machining them to 86mm takes them about 1.5mm past the inner edge of the stock bolt holes (R31).

C'mon Dale buy it. My Rust Repair Jedi Powers are fully mastered and i just installed floorpans too. I really think dale needs another Zed.

Ahh yes the comparison shot.

I probably would prefer if you said Lurch or Scoota (to save me locking horns with the Bear ) but yea here we are and the Driver's side floorpan is fitted and i even got to use my special Aircraft Technology "cleco" panel holders which do work very well. Another day or two welding and i'll piece her back together, it's been fun sharing it with you guys and girl.

Step 3: Assembly Well if you have arrived at this point without pulling all your hair out (that's what happened to me ) all you have to do is mount all the gear. Mounting bracket first. The disc just slides on. Then fit the new brake line to the caliper and your Zed trying to avoid fluid loss. Bolt up the caliper with the stock bolts and connect your handbrake. You will probably now see that the handbrake cable is close to the rear half shaft and will need to be suspended from the body, it's close but it works. I would recommend that you upgrade your Master Cylinder to 15/16 or 1 Inch. Anything i miss lurch? Check it over and see what you think!!

Step 2: Modifying the rear strut and handbrake mounting Now is the time you should get to Your Zed and remove the rear brakes and backing plates as described by Lurch in that now infamous thread. Either that or remove the stubaxles (personally i've never had a problem getting them out). Now if you have gotten this far and tried to offer up the Modified R31 bracket to the strut you will notice that it will not sit correctly on the bottom rear (in the case of our cut bracket, the other version may need more adjustment) so grab that saftey gear and grinder and carefully grind away the part of the strut it is hitting. There's plenty of metal there and i chose to do this rather than weaken the bracket. Take your time with this to make sure the bracket fits flush. After this you will need to unbolt the R31 Caliper handbrake mounting bracket bolt from the caliper with a 6mm allen key. You'll need to resize the hole that the handbrake cable slides into to suit the Zed handbrake and then shorten the mounting bracket shaft by about 50%. Then tap out the bolt hole deeper and shorten the allen key bolt to suit (or just buy two shorter bolts). With this modification the stock Zed hand brake cable will fit the R31 Calipers, another way to do this would be to use the stock Zed Brackets and weld them to the shaft of the R31 Bracket (after you lop off the top).

Step 1: Modify the brackets Now if you have already jacked the car up taken off the wheels and removed the brakes that's fine as you will need the rear drum plates to use as a template for drilling the Modified R31 brackets to correct spec but if you have a spare set better to leave the Zed alone as it takes a while to modify them both correctly. As i have stated before choose your method to remove the backing plates, i don't think it's necessary to go into the process as it is well documented in the thread below. But there's a couple of pictures at the bottom anyway. So back to the modification, the calipers are mounted facing the front of your Zed. Mounting them at 12 O'clock will cause them to foul on the strut (many thanks to simon for spotting that one) so clamp the calipers onto the old backing plate in the proper position (slightly less than 90 degrees from 12 o'clock will give better clearance for the handbrake cable) and then drill your holes. If you decided to take off the hubs you won't have to cut the bracket further as we did which is shown it the photo below. Please be aware that these brackets may need a tweak as in elongated holes or further grinding to make them fit properly.

This article is a step-by-step guide to mounting the rear calipers & rotors from a R31 Skyline onto the rear of your 240/260Z. The key to to this conversion is the correct preparation of the mounting brackets as this will take the most time. It is also recommended that you recondition the calipers prior to use, fit new pads & rotors. I would prefer to remove the hubs as cutting off the backing plates is tedious but can be done. Items you’ll need: R31 Skyline rear calipers and mounting brackets (I purchased mine on ebay for $90) R31 Skyline discs and brake pads (New would be good) Custom brake lines with a male fitting at one end and a female fitting at the other. (These will need to be around 260mm long which is the same diameter as the disc) The new design bracket uses standard R31 brake hoses. The mounting bolts from your rear drum plates (3 of for each side) The caliper mounting bolts from the R31. I'll assume that you have a workshop that is equipped with drill, grinder, welder and hand tools and a level area of ground to work on. Before you start: You will need to weld up the original bolt holes in the R31 Mounting Brackets and have the centre machined out to 86mm. Also have your custom brake lines made up (or you could take your Zed to have them fitted after but that may be a PITA) You can see the complete kit below with the Brackets already customised ready for drilling and cutting.

Are they genuine mirrors? Maybe i could borrow dales mirror mount and make a copy?

Here's a set that just went up too. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/datsun-240z-260z-nissan-twin-carby-and-manifold-/120741477484?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c1cc0bc6c

I know i've said it before but one of the things that keeps me motivated is the feedback i get from others, so cheers guys . Can't wait to finish this one as i'm off to Poland mid August and it has to be completed by then. More Pics

I started a facebook page with a bunch more pics. http://www.facebook.com/pages/1967-Fastback-Mustang-repairrebuild-Christang/231505116875730 If you have access check it out. This has by far been the most difficult project i have ever taken on but i have discovered so many little tricks which far out weigh any pain. I think i'm at about 150 Hours and i want to finish it before 200 Hours.

Here's the repair to the rear of the front frame rail. This whole front clip was nearly junk but now . . . .

With some repairs to the bumper mounts and a few other pieces it was time to move onto the Driver's Side Rail and Torque Box removal and replacement. At this stage i'm ready to refit the mechanicals and front panels.

Cool, do you want to send them to me and i'll do the write up or how would you like to do it?