PeterAllen

I thought Peter Mc and other might enjoy this - turn up the sound. Apologies if it has been posted before.

Many thanks to those who have replied You're right, and I will sadly have to relocate it and spoil the beautiful PWR welding. It's a GTO and it's all covered by the front bodywork (see photo) I'm worried that a full radiator weights considerably more than an intercooler but the mounting principles are the same - thanks Alan. IIRC your Chev is n/a but the LS1 is efi with the throttle body forward of the manifold. In addition I have an extra thick radiator with twin rear fans and a heat exchanger on the front for the a/c. Plus I had mounted it a further 90mm towards the engine to allow for an OTR cold air intake. By the time all that was done the radiator hoses were operating is a very restricted area. See comment above. Tim, this is a hobby for me, sure I get frustrated at the slowness (coming up to 7 years) but I love playing around with it and solving design issues. I've come across so many blokes who have a finished project just sitting unused in the garage, why I've even heard of a chap in Qld who is selling his LS1/S30 because he doesn't use it enough - you may know him! Excellent - As mentioned before I think I'll have to fabricate slightly more robust brackets for the weight of the full radiator but the mounting principles will be the same.

On my LS1 build I've decided to relocate the radiator from the engine bay (see photo) to forward of the radiator surround - it was becoming too crowded in the bay. I need to mount the radiator about 120mm forward of the surround for hose clearance. etc. (above the stringline in the photo). Before fabricating mount/s I wonder if anyone has photos of how the mountings work on a intercooler or radiator which has been mounted forward of the surround. Thanks

Looks like they go with the National Code Of Practice and several LSx/S30s have already been registered under this Code. http://www.transport.wa.gov.au/licensing/20500.asp#21153 Modifications requiring approval - limitations and conditions. For information on the following modifications please refer to the Department of Infrastructure, Transport, Regional Development and Local Government's Vehicle Standards Bulletin: National Code of Practice for Light Vehicle Construction and Modification (VSB14):

Gav - I wouldn't take that as the Oz market price. Asking prices at places like The Throttle Shop are usually double the price they go for at auction and you can usually haggle the price down to 2/3rds anyway.

It's probably over 18 months since I last looked at all this but I remember doing the trigonometry until my head hurt. The donor was a VZ SS Ute and I can see what you mean about their pedal length, however some chaps on HybridZ with LSx conversions tried to use the GM clutch m/c and said the Datsun pedal overstroked them.

Just following on from this thread: http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,11415.msg115542/topicseen.html I am fitting a Holden brake booster to complement an LS1 and Wilwood brakes and the size of the booster means I have to alter the location of the clutch pushrod to pedal mounting point. I have to mount the clutch master cylinder further towards the centre of the car (see photo). I'm curious from the thread above about the differences in the 240Z and 260Z pedal boxes - perhaps I can swap to a 260Z box to achieve the wider spacing I need. Any info would be appreciated, thanks.

To be honest there would not be much weight saving in doing that. While the fibreglass door is lighter to achieve that you have to keep the material fairly thin and it would probably lack the durability for road use. The HUGE weight saving is in doing away with the window glass and the winding mechanism. I have incorporated recesses to fit end-plates to the intrusion bars which ensure the bars do not simply move into the cabin but have to overcome interference from the welded seam around the door opening. In addition by shortening the height of the door (50mm top and bottom) I now have larger sills through which I can install added intrusion bar - chassis stiffeners.

When I did it I just basically made two moulds, one for the skin and one for the rest. While my doors are considerably modified and I started from fibreglass doors it shouldn't be any problem with original doors. There are enough contours in the shape to create a stable mould but I did insert a rib along the base (see photo) It's probably best to send me a PM with your e-mail address if you want a blow by blow description.

According to this, 1192kg http://www.zshop.net.au/260tech.htm

Tim - It's more a case of where aren't they going! Removable instrument panel to dash Aluminium door cards to fibreglass doors To secure various inner splash guards in the wheel arches - may still weld. Secure the new cover over the hole in the boot where the tyre well was removed, and I may line the boot area with removeable aluminium panels. Basically anywhere I don't need to pop rivet or weld for structural rigidity.

I did a search under 'nutsert' and think I found them - thanks. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/RIVET-NUT-NUTSERT-TOOL-5-MANDRELS-HALF-PRICE-SALE-/120741367397?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c1cbf0e65 The eBay ad includes a handy video clip for those not familiar with this process.

I'm after a rivnut tool for my build - I anticipate no more than 100 applications - he said hopefully! I couldn't see any reasonably priced in Oz but there are $30 tools on USA eBay with $30 postage. I've previously purchased some good value sheetmetal tool in this price range (jogglers, etc) however I was just wondering if anyone has purchased these? Thanks (edit) Here is an imperial one but there are metric as well. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AIRCRAFTtype-hand-TOOL-RIVNUT-PULLER-INSTALLER-KIT-riveter-w-40-rivnuts-gun-/300720179917?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item460451cacd

Geoff Brabham never drove F1.

As someone who has been 'done over' a couple of times, just a bit of advice to d3c0y and others. Unless your house will be occupied 24/7, never place information on the internet that you will be away, particularly overseas. I've made this comment public as d3c0y has indicated he doesn't know where he will be living after 1st July. Enjoy your trip and the motor.

While I may disagree with Alan on one issue, I agree here. Powder coating can have durability concerns - the problem is that it can chip and when it does usually a big chunk falls off. The coating is nice but any coating is only as strong as its bond to the material under it. With the stones and junk flying round under the car it will get chipped and leave an area of bare metal exposed to the elements. Many of the new paints out there like POR15 will have a better bond with the surface than powder coating. While I haven't done it as yet I'm planning on the Black Oxide surface treatment on the CV adaptors I have made for my Holden diff installation - it can be applied to surfaces like threads with no change to the dimensions.

I’m no metallurgist but I thought the moustache bar was a heat treated spring steel material and hence that’s why it has cracked rather than distorted. If that’s the case, welding may; (a) not have the desired fusion and, (b) destroy the heat treated properties. I would fit a replacement.

You're assuming you have a problem... however, in all likelihood you have. Have you tried to remove the pin? Have you removed the centre lock bolt? Have you sprayed penetrating oil? Have you placed a piece of timber or aluminium block over the end of the spindle and tried to knock it out? If "yes", then I suggest you remove the bearing housing and transverse link from the car and spray the spindle ends with penetrating oil or the like whilst you await the arrival of the puller. You may find that a loose or ill-fitted centre lock pin has burred the spindle rather than it rusting on to the bearing housing so don't rotate it - just pull it in straight. You may also find with the puller, it works if you tension it and leave it overnight with the penetrating oil. I've never had to heat the bearing housing but it is an option. You wont damage the bearings but why wouldn't you be replacing them and repacking with grease if you're doing this work anyway? As Lunch says, I've never had to replace those transverse link bushings. Is there play there?

Except it has an LSx and not a SBC!

Take your time, pay the money and do this part the correct way. Don't half do it. Strip the entire car and have it blasted (sand is my preference) to make sure any rust in the rails is identified. Panel rust is the least of your worries, you have to make sure the shell is structurally sound or the whole project is a waste of time. Make sure the blaster primes it or rust will reform while you are trailering it back home. Let the pros do this stuff. Have you built your rotisserie? Have you removed the sound deadening from the floors etc? Have you ... Blasting it like computers - garbage in garbage out!

Can you tell me if you can rely on Sikaflex only? I'm not so much worried about the scratching as I'm using Lexan but I'm concerned about the window bowing and blowing out. I will have sliding windows which will only open to 50% at max so I'm not sure what sort of cabin pressure will be created. I don't want to use retaining straps I am thinking of drilling a series of holes very close to the perimeter of the window and bolting the Lexan to the fibreglass (not much to work with) with countersunk bolts. I might then use a 'Ferrari' style trim to hide the screws. It's a lot of work if the Sikaflex alone will work.

This could develop into an interesting thread for the suspension aficionados to follow. http://forums.autosport.com/index.php?showtopic=162685 There is a vast about of tech info on the forum itself.

As a parent and carer of a disabled person I find your implied use of this word offensive.

Gavin - I don't want to pre-empt want Ian may write but mounting a new motor is very straightforward (drill three new holes). The rotating arm off the motor is the same configuration as the Datsun so the wiper movement is exactly the same. The Holden motor is made in the UK (not Lucas I hope!) and someone suggested there are only a few manufactures in the world who supply all the car makers so there should be a great deal of commonality with motors. As shown above, the Holden ball/socket fit straight on to the Datsun linkages. The tricky part, for me anyway, was the wiring but I sure any sparkie could work it out in a flash - no pun intended. However, as you can see I now have a u-beaut motor driving old linkages and fittings.