PeterAllen

The Wilwood + Wilwood has been fitted many many times so it might be worthwhile to look on HybridZ to see if this issue has been raised and solutions offered. I can't offer a specific thread but see if 'search' offers up something. What are you doing for a handbrake?

Just a few thoughts: Is the proportioning valve plumbed the correct way? Screw it in the opposite rotation and see what happens. Can it be set to 'fully disengaged'? If you got it from Arizona Z let me know and I'll visually inspect mine (still in the packet after 4 years!) to see if it can. Are the 'fronts' fully bled? How close to the M/C is the proportioning valve? What M/C are you using? Make sure it doesn't have a built-in proportioning valve.

Scott - That is a thousand times better then the configuration I have AND, it keeps the third cross-member which I have done away with AND, it also removes the Tally-Ho clearance I have between the Jurid coupling and the transmission tunnel. I see a complete rework ahead for me. Thanks for posting. RE: CVs - Referring to the outer joint where you still have the universal. I may have sent you an e-mail on this but I machined up a coupling for the Holden CV to the Datsun stub axle.

I would suggest that is a very narrow interpretation. There are numerous LS1 conversions (5669cc) which have been approved under NCOP.

I hate to say this but walk away and put it down to a learning experience. The fact that you have since carried out work means you cannot substantiate the errors they made. We have all had our fingers (and pockets) burnt at some time with matters like this so don't feel alone. You could write a letter setting out your points to the proprietor and he may take action against the employee and/or offer some compensation (repairs in lieu) to protect his good name (if he has one) but it's more than likely he was the actual repairer anyway. Though not always possible, I always try to use businesses that have been personally recommended or are long established as some hedge against being ripped off, but it's not always a guarantee. Welcome to the money pit called “old cars”. Some time back I would have suggested carrying out the work yourself to gain the experience but I'm now not sure of the value of that. Waaaaaaay back in my day cars were so simple all you needed were some rudimentary tools, a coat hanger and an oxy torch and you could do all the repairs needed but with today's electronics I don't even bother to lift the hood and just send them to a trusted mechanic. Car story: I recently spent some time in the UK and hired a manual car. I hadn't driven a manual for 30 years. I couldn't believe how smooth the gear change and clutch function were but the engine kept stalling while I was waiting at the lights. Even though it was in neutral a couple of time I managed to catch it before it stalled by throwing in the clutch - I'm sure those of you au fait with modern technology are laughing right now. Anyway after a dozen or so episodes I realized that the engine cuts out rather than idles as a fuel saving technique and is restarted when the clutch is depressed. The kids are right… too old, too slow, and too stupid. I hope that cheers you up.

Someone mentioned to me recently that there is a requirement to retain at least one original cross-member (engine, gearbox or diff) or the car would be classified as an ICV rather than modified. I had not heard of this before but fortunately I am retaining the engine cross-member so it's not an issue for me. I don't know the veracity of this comment but it might be something you should clarify with your engineer. If you do speak with your engineer I would like to know what he/she says. Thanks.

Just back in Oz and now saving up for a trip to the Inianapolis 500. I though some of you tech-heads might be interested in a close up of the bodylines and rear suspensions of the Mercs and Auto Unions. The chap running the team warned his drivers to ignore such items and concentrate on the tacho needle and the track.

Caught up with Wayne and Troy. Wayne said his boys didn't come but were practicing hard in Spain... I think he would be hard taskmaster. I tell you what, he can still ride fast himself.

How to spend you kids' inheritance!

I think I have come at this from the wrong direction - a trait not unknown to me! With the exhaust tucked up close to the floor and the tyre-well removed and replaced with a fuel cell there was a huge amount of clearance underneath, in fact I was able to lower the rear 90mm and sill have 110mm ground clearance. However with 16" rims and high aspect ratio tyres (225/70/16) I was left with only 55mm tyre/tub clearance as well as requiring repositioning of the struts to eliminate the negative camber. Last night I raised the rear 50mm (i.e. still down 40mm from standard) which created over 100mm tyre/tub clearance and leaves minimal negative camber. The car clearly looks higher at the rear but cars of the 60s did have good ground clearance so it actually enhances the character of the car - win, win. PS. As some of you know I have been having an annus horribilis but thing are turning around. I fly out for Goodwood on Friday - YES!

I have opened up the rear arches to fit extended tubs which fill the gap between the original S30 guards and the new GTO fibreglass rear section. I'm trying to establish a ride height based on the clearance between the tyre and the tub. Would anyone like to comment on whether there is a legal requirement and/or what is a sensible gap to leave considering this will be a road/touring car and not a track car. Thanks

Well... that's a relief.

What's the state of play with Warren of Z Parts in Hornsby? He must have them in stock but is the business operating? The web site doesn't function properly. Matt - I missed seeing the car at Kurnell by one day but I guess it's back there!

The chap who made my fuel tank made up a set for me - cheap as chips... $10 I think. Try to find someone on the marine side of things who makes fuel tanks for boats. Depending on the end fittings you may have to reuse what you have. The rubber is available from any rubber supplier in a range of widths.

Tim - Irrespective of the original shape I think you're right and I'll have to extend it down otherwise the vent looks rather superfluous, yet it is integral to the GTO shape.

In the millions of photos I have of my project I can't find one I need. I am making new rear tubs/arches and I'm just not sure of the shape of the originals. Could someone post a photo of the rear lower portion - the area of yellow lines. I'm just not sure if they extends down that far. Thanks

While you are all up early tomorrow morning watching Casey win at Indianapolis (damaged ankle and all) you may want to have a look in on the Pebble Beach Concours d'Elegance. Not everyone's cup of tea but the cars are sensational. Here is the link but you will have to work out the time for you own timezone http://www.pebblebeachconcours.tv/ Dear Peter, We are pleased to announce the inaugural webcast of the Pebble Beach Concours d'Elegance. PEBBLE BEACH CONCOURS d'ELEGANCE TO STREAM LIVE Inaugural Webcast on PebbleBeachConcours.TV PEBBLE BEACH, Calif. (August 17, 2012) -- Online viewers from around the world will enjoy a rare, front row seat to the 62nd annual Pebble Beach Concours d'Elegance on Sunday, August 19, via a live webcast to be streamed from the new digital video site: PebbleBeachConcours.TV In addition to the event program, viewers will enjoy up-close videos of the historic autos and special exhibits as well as interviews with owners. The high definition, live stream is a first for the Pebble Beach Concours d'Elegance, widely considered the most prestigious automotive event in the world and a leader in promoting the preservation of automotive history. For 2012, the live stream will be provided at no cost to web viewers. "The owners of these remarkable works of art and engineering come to Pebble Beach to share their cars with the world," said Sandra Button, Concours Chairman. "The global reach of a live digital video stream is a natural progression for our mission." The live webcast will air at PebbleBeachConcours.TV from 1:00 pm local Pacific Time (2000 GMT) and run through the presentation of the coveted "Best of Show" trophy. The high-resolution video stream can be viewed via most standard web browsers and it is also compatible with most mobile devices.

Excellent... Thank you. I was confused by the web section near the rear edge of the guard but I guess that just a strengthening rib which maintains the guard profile but doesn't attach to the main body?

I am fitting a fibreglass front guard/fender, however, I am securing the botton edge about 50mm out from the original mounting points - incorporating a new wider sill/rocker - and I need to make a new splash shield. I don't have an original guard/fender and the workshop manual doesn't show any splash shields. Is the shield attached to the guard/fender or is it a separate item which attaches to the main body? I think it might be part #81 here: http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunZIndex/Body240Z/FrontFenderHood/tabid/1750/Default.aspx

Try this

In terms of a standard Z most of what MaygZ states I support and there is no need to go beyond the original design. However, it instances where a high torque drivetrain is being installed it would be prudent to optimise the strength of load bearing areas and fittings. The basic shell is designed to address suspension loads and dynamics whereas the frame rails cope with the engine torque and in my case, directly, the gearbox loads - they do a lot more than support the floor.

It can certainly be done on a running car it is just that rotisserie builds nearly always take the opportunity to do it. Likewise there is the option to either replace the frame rails or the much simpler approach to attach another rail over the top of the existing rail. If you look at the floor from inside the cabin you will see the spot welds holding the rails. If you want to replace the rails simply drill through the welds, if you wish to use covering rails just drill a series of holes in between the existing spot welds. You then use a trolley jack to hold the new rails up against the floor and you can weld them to the floor (from inside the cabin) through the holes which have been drilled. You will have to get under the car and weld the ends or they will fill with water and start the rust all over again. The new rails can be whatever gauge and depth you want. I replaced the floors and added full length heavy gauge rails but these photos illustrate the way covering rails would work. I also used 'Fergusons' rust proofing and it was very easy to weld through - I got it from Supercheap.

I have one but honestly it's not worth the effort to ship it. If the only difference is the location of the wipers why wouldn't you just cut out a 3"x3" square around the wiper section and the same for the new location and transpose the pieces?

Anyone interested in a performance 240Z should seriously consider this car. Even if you had to get a loan you will be way ahead in the long run. Building your own is for a very few specialist who have the skills and resources or for people with very deep pockets. You would really struggle to build AND get this car on the road for under $35k. This site is littered with hopeful projects which have never reached fruition - I should know! This car has an ulta-reliable 400hp (about 150hp more than most will ever use) and, as with all 240Zs, there are little things you can do to gradually alter it to your liking. Before you buy that tired old Zed and submit your first Journal post with your wish-list of modifications (to follow the rust removal) give this car some serious thought. I know the guy is a Queenslander and all that, and ethically you shouldn't take advantage but this is too good a deal.

Handsandwich - Sorry I didn't respond at the time but thanks for taking the time and effort to post the photos. Mounting the radiator forward of the surround has turned out to be more problematic than the situation I had previous. I'm working on Plan 'C'.