PeterAllen

I'm going to put this stuff on eBay next week but I thought I would offer it here beforehand. The car was largely in bits when I got it so I'm assuming all bits (except diff) are from the car - compliance plate 3/72. All are open to offers. Happy for any inspections. Rear hatch - it has a lot of bog on the outer skin below the glass but it looked perfect inside when I removed the sound-proofing (today). Someone once told me some replacement hatch seals made the hatch sit low compared to the body and the area was raised with bog during rebuilds. Take that for what it's worth but the metal looks straight and rust free to me. Passenger door complete with glass and card but no latch mechanism. - OFFER MADE Driver's door - rust free but skin removed for 250 GTO kit. - OFFER MADE Driver's door glass - OFFER MADE Rear panel to the boot level - has to be unpicked. Seats - Upholstery buggered - OFFER MADE Dash with loom - Trim buggered but has all the gauges (MPH) The bit between the dash and the screen. Front disc and calipers Tail-shaft - can someone confirm this is from a '72 240Z? Drive-shafts std. r230 LSD diff - didn't fit! Centre console - couple of cracks - see photos. OFFER MADE Also LS1/250GTO project http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,12005.0.html SORRY, NO POSTAGE - PICK UP ONLY

Rally handbrakes tend to be hydraulic which are illegal in Oz - and elsewhere I assume. Wosa's bracket wouldn't be cheap to have made but really that's the easy bit... the cables are the hard part. There are alternative tail-shaft brakes designs and it might also be worth your while to see what hot-rodders use.

Excellent work Scott. Just remember for the LS1 you need to have the same pad area as a manufactured car fitted with an LS1 and the M/C reservoir needs to have the capacity of all the pistons bores in the calipers i.e. surface area of the pistons x thickness of the pads

ArizonaZ hats and rotors are standard Wilwood items you can buy anywhere, it's just that Dave is the cheapest Wilwood retailer. He doesn't make them. I can understand that JKS may have manufactured their own hats but their rotors would have been cast and possibly machined by a large supplier - they are possibly Wilwoods.

It seems you need to phone him to establish your bona fide and then he will respond. He's operated like that for years. Note; Make sure you know what time it is in Arizona when you phone.

I suggest he buys a set of drawings from 'Wosa' and has the Wilwood handbrake bracket and cables made up. It shouldn't be left to an afterthought

We discussed the 'see food' diets we were both on at the time!

At Pebble Beach last year Jay followed me around for a some time before finally plucking up the courage to ask if he could have his photo taken with me. I must say he was extremely friendly to 'an Aussie'.

David - Ferrari V12s carry the ignition leads in an aluminium tube attached to the rocker cover which I have replicated (see photos). You might want to consider something similar along the firewall for the battery leads. You could run it from behind the cylinder head to underneath the battery bracket. Just a thought. You can paint it to blend in with the body colour (see real Ferrari).

At Goodwood I was able to photograph the interior of all 11 GTOs present and physically measure the gear selector casing so I could make an exact copy. I also took photos of the bodywork because I love those curves!

Correct Gavin, and my apologies. I had assumed people would use a PM but James has few posts and is obviously not familiar with that function. I have spoken to James, a very interested chap, but negotiations are not proceeding. I stated 'face to face' contact as I didn't want tyre-kickers and there is so much detail to describe this project it would get lost in a written description... it is in large part a handcrafted automobile. A good example is the last component I made which was a casing for the gear selector.

If youse dudes ain't never heard of The Living End then youse wouldn't have understood this. Man, like I'm a sexagenarian and I've been to like heaps of their gigs*. Get inta this: * to pick up my kids!

Are you just trying to get clearance so it will fit or are you chasing the 10mm clearance an engineer will be looking for? Either way you are modifying an ADR compliant component and you will be up the creek if the engineer spots it.

As a Living End fan I would have thought you wouldn't need no one to tell you what to do.

I reused the one that can from my VZ SS Ute donor car. I split it. There is so much cross-section surface that I'm not worried about applying glue etc. Also, I came in through the bathroom window (sorry, couldn't help myself there)... through the transmission tunnel just behind the bellhousing rather than the firewall.

Ignoring that an S30 shell forms the basis of my GTO project I'm a bit of a purist at heart, e.g. Adam's car, but I've got to say this is a very appealing body rework. I can't seem to find any details or photos of exactly how the roof was done but the overall result is impressive. As someone comments, 'very Aston Martin-ish'. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/107335-top-chop-update/

Ben - that's always the plan but it nearly always goes much much longer. Once you have it on a rotisserie you see how easy it is to access so much and the scope of your work quickly expand, then you have the hassle of the owner wanting it back. I suggest you do what others have done and buy a couple of engine stands off eBay and make your own in half a day. The best $150-200 you will ever spend.

With the LS1 install I opted for the Holden brake booster and the interference with the clutch master cylinder was a real PITA to rectify. The strengthening/backing plate needs to be extended for one thing and the pushrod locating point on the pedal arm needs to moved accordingly. Also, the GM clutch master cylinder will over-stroke with the standard Datsun travel so the pedal ratio needs to be changed. Just a warning to anyone thinking of following David that you may need to address other issues unless you house the M/C internally like David. Great work David, you're kinda encouraging me to have another go.

Forgot I was communicating with a Queenslander! http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,12005.0.html

Congratulations. By coincidence there is another car on the market that has your name written all over it!

I’m open to genuine ‘expressions of interest’ for my LS1/250 GTO project. I’m getting on and health issues are sapping my enthusiasm. I have extensive documentation of this project – including cost – but suffice to state the following key points: - S30 shell - full rotisserie restoration with strengthened frame rails. - 250 GTO body by Charlie Puckett of California – one of four known kits. These are the crème de la crème of kits as far as matching the Ferrari shape goes. I have made wide fibreglass doors to enhance the appearance of a GTO. - LS1 taken from a 2005 VZ donor car with 80,000km on the odometer that I bought in 2008 – it is fitted and runs. - Dayton 72 spoke knock-off wire wheels with new Pirelli tyres. - Wilwood brakes with Wosa’s handbrake setup. - Plus – All new wiring loom made up and fitted – alloy fuel tank - many other bits. There are numerous posts about this project on HybridZ “250 GTO Owners” thread I am only interested in discussing a sale face-to-face. The project can be inspected in Sydney. This car was my dream retirement project but I have to face the reality of unforseen extraneous factors.

Jason - I see you have the 2000 in the entry list for the Tasman Revival.

I'm with Jamo on this, you really need to check the front brakes and M/C to see if there is an issue there. Just some basic points: are the front calipers mounted with the nipples up, and, did you bleed them both?

Adam - Best Mufflers at Carlton made my exhaust (LS1) and I was happy with the outcome. http://www.bestmufflers.com/ You might want to try them for another quote but I've also heard good things about Liverpool Exhaust. I've added a Goodwood photo just to make you envious!

I've just dug out my proportioning valve and it still has seals on the ports and knowing the rate of progress on my project (it could be another four years before it gets fitted!) I don't want to break the seals just yet... apologies. It may not have been much help anyway but at least you could have checked if your front are working properly. (edit) The Wilwood web site indicates that you can only alter the rate from 0 to 57% so you can't block off the rears completely. http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderProd.aspx?itemno=260-8419