PeterAllen

The circled item and item in the forefront in the second photo are one and the same!

And, how does it relate/interact with this? Thanks.

On my March '72 car they are close to the 286.5mm measurement.

The red and orange cars are from WA - see number plate! Red #29 = Chris Bothams Orange #63 = David Moir

For a mere $9,300 more you could have this! http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,12335.0.html

Anyone who has been around Lakeside might like to compare their times to some of the Aussie Greats of 50 years ago.

The way I read it was that the top of the strut is off-centre to the movement of the LCA and it is a design flaw from Datsun. By using an ‘A’ arm (rather than the standard ‘H’ arm) pivoted from the forward spindle point you eliminate most of the binding. You could in theory get away with not fitting a rod end at that point. A rod end attached to the rear spindle point you adjust the toe angle. (see photo) My big concern in all this is the durability of the rod end bearings. I know it's all a long time ago but when I raced open-wheelers we went through more ‘Rose’ joints than cans of KB... and that's saying something! I raised this on another forum and someone replied that he only got 11,000km road use out of the rod ends fitted to his kit car – they appear to be too much of a PITA.

It seems there is an inherent issue of binding with rear LCAs and you either have trouble with fractures in non-adjustable non-OEM arms or you have to fit rod end bearings. For safety's sake I'll stick with the OEM. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/66749-home-made-control-arms/

Have you considered upgrading to a Holden unit? http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,10631.0.html

Are there any aftermarket rear lower control arms which don't have rod end spherical bearings? I'm not really after adjustable arms but I definitely don't want rod end bearing, I would just like something that looked non-OEM. Thanks.

The bar should be made of spring steel. If you weld or heat it you will alter the tempering and change the tension properties or worse, it may become brittle at the weld and break under load. Make up separate extension tabs until you know the final configuration and then have a new bar made.

A true Artisan - Not a merely 'a Legend' but dare I say it, 'a Dead Set Legend', I am in awe of your skills.

I seem to recall someone wanting this item some time back. If you're still interested you can have it. If anyone else wants it I'll give the person a week to contact me then it's yours.

Llynden Reithmuller owned both ex-Allen M10Bs - you can see the other tub in the photo I posted above and in the one attached. Alan Hamilton bought them both last year... he had raced one after Allen sold them - Kevin Bartlett raced the other. Philip Island might be better than the Goodwood Festival of Speed but it's certainly not quite up to the Goodwood Revival. The Can-Am cars might have more horsepower than F1s but their mechanical gearchange and weight would make them slower I suspect. They were fantastic at Monterey when I was there in 2011.

Sir Jack - Wish I could get down there. Make sure you get a photo of the Lola T70 Coupe, which along with the P4 Ferrari, are the only cars more alluring than the 250 GTO. Also grab one of Alfie in the M10B. I was involved with that car via the previous owner before he died - bloody heart attacks, the curse of Baby Boomers! And took a photo of it a Warwick Farm when Niel Allen first drove it.

It's probably not too late to enrol at TAFE and make your own! http://www.sydneytafe.edu.au/coursefinder/28019 My TAFE teacher has his own business and could make them. http://natolipanelcreations.com.au/

They are not always a good fit. In particular, the rack casting may have quite a corner radius which requires the need to remove some material from the edge of the bore on the new bushings. The size of the rhombus shape of the casting can also vary. I also have some vague recollection that the casting sizes varied as the steering racks changes between 240 and 260 models - bit of a dog's breakfast. Worn 240 racks were possibly replaced with 260 racks. I believe they only supply bushings for 260z racks now so if you have a 240 rack you may have fitting issues. The previous owner had made a hash it and left a large gap and I got halfway through the exercise and decided to wait until next I had the engine out (LS1) to finish it off.

This should do the trick and being flexible will make the job so much simpler. http://www.mscn.com.au/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=481

I mean in a safety sense, not, 'will it fit?'

A young boy is watching in fascination as his father restores his pet project, a 240z. The young boy says, "Dad, when I grow up I want to restore old cars too." The Dad looks up with busted knuckles and covered in grease and oil and says "Son, you can't do both"

Gordon - I have a set which I could measure up for you so you could have them made. I'm not sure I'm going to use them as there is some question as to their worth - on HydridZ somewhere. As an alternative have you considered relocating (raising) the lower control arm inner pivot on the cross-member?

This doesn't directly answer your Nissan enquiry but one of the huge advantages of installing the Holden diff, which 'red76z' and I have done, is that 3.07, 3.46, 3.73, 3.91 and 4.11 ratios are freely available, and all in LSD configuration... And, there are no breakage risks with the Holden CVs. I picked up a complete LSD rear end for $150! I think there would be a bit of a market for someone to provide an installation kit for these. It is a pity GM do not fit them to cars in the USA otherwise the chaps on HybridZ would have been on to this, but I see they are how installing Ford IRS diffs in their S30s.

Price drop $9,990 ono

more pics