PeterAllen

Tim I only need the inner pivot shafts. Could you chop 'em off and post them. Thanks. I'm making an extra set of adjustables for the Pommie.

Thanks, if I can't get any local I'll be in touch.

As the title states. 240Z Any condition. Sydney if possible, but any available considered. Thanks

Nothing yet, and they are closed for two weeks... not back until the first week of the next term.

To the untrained eye our cars could appear identical.

Thanks Lachlan, he had me sweating there for a while.

You got me thinking about my Wilwoods which have been sitting in a box the the lounge room for four years. I've had a look and notice they have a "Made in USA" sticker but also the bleed nipple sits within an insert, i.e. not directly seating on the casing. Is your setup the same, and if so, which thread is seeping?

Wish I had a dollar for every nut or bolt I drilled using these – even for every drill bit I broke! In the aircraft industry we had jigs beautifully, and expensively, made in-house but in the hands of an apprentice even they were somewhat problematic. The few I see on eBay look a bit cheap and nasty but I wonder if anyone has purchased similar units and how successfully they operated. Thanks. Safety Lock Wire Drill Guide Bolt Heads Thread NUT Bolt Drill JIG KIT | eBay

It's a big job but you might consider removing the sills and welding a tube brace from the 'A' pillar to the 'B' pillar, as per the yellow markings, then reattach the sills. As I fitted wider sills I was able to install two tubes each side which also act as intrusion bars.

16th July - I looked it up on Google! To be honest I'm not too optimistic that they will get the number of starters they need (12) so PLEASE, anyone who is slightly interested, phone up for the details. You could knock one of these up before Christmas.

Just to remind those who might be interested there is a course available at St George TAFE (NSW) which allows you access to a fully equipped workshop to do your own thing. There is expert advice available on how to make or restore panels if needed. It now runs for 3 hours every Tuesday night and there is a new intake starting in July. Cost has gone up a fair bit thanks to Barry O'Farrell and they are somewhat desperate for numbers to keep the course running and my own project will be left high and dry if they pull the pin. Call the Head of panelbeating (9598 6323) and ask about Vehicle Restoration. The chap running it certainly knows his stuff. He builds cars for movies, eg. Mad Max, The Great Gatsby... by the way the Duesenberg is a Ford F150 with recreated Doozy panels! Here are some other examples of his work and web site http://natolipanelcreations.com.au/videos/ Check out the videos PLEASE come and join us.

Get a quote from a local fabricator - they're not rocket science.

I'm making a set next week - I might do a batch later on.

1. Does the hole shown in the photo have any operational purpose or is it just a likely location point for manufacturing? and 2. Where can I purchase the outer (spindle pin) bushes? Someone on eBay wants $60... is that the going rate? Thanks.

Tim – I had imagined a diaphragm/bladder of some kind. HOWEVER: Someone sent me an extract from a 240Z service manual (I only have a 260Z service manual) and the item is described as a PROPORTIONING VALVE. However, it functions only as a proportioning valve once a certain 'split' pressure is reached, i.e. only under heavy braking do the fronts receive a higher pressure. red76z - Yes, definitely remove/bypass it if you are fitting a Wilwood, or other, proportioning valve. Here is my new brake plumbing in that area:

Six-Shooter, you're correct about the line passing through the rail, I hadn't taken a close examination. However, the longtube extractors (headers) on the LSx run too close to the rail to retain the original loop under so I'll still have to run along the rail and pass through the inner guard. I'll then have to do a bit of a down and up loop near the bracket. I will put a bit of heatshrink on the line where it passes through the guard and on the bit inside the wheelarch for debris protection. Mick - It might have been you who planted the idea in my mind. Hardly any R&D left now, just fit and paint the bodywork and then basically detailing the parts as it goes back together. Tim - It's becoming harder and harder to find things to PYO but I'm now thinking of making up the rear section inner trim panels out of aluminium - it should put the completion date back 3-4 months!

Tim - I don't expect a Queensland mechanic to understand how an 'automotive ar-tist' goes about creating a work of art, however, you would be astounded at progress in the last three months! Big sills with internal bracing all welded in. Engine bay painted Interior painted Stonechip on Holden diff (with revised front mount design) fitted. Holden booster and clutch m/c fitted. etc, etc. How's the fishing going... not bored yet?

Anyone know if these are available new? Thanks

Can someone tell me what the orifices #1 and #2 are for, and the purpose of the two captive nuts (#3). Thanks.

From a bit of reading I've got the impression that it is not a proportioning valve but more of a tiny reservoir device which creates a time delay in transmitting fluid to the rear brake. When the brakes are applied fluid is immediate pumped into the front system while there is a tiny delay to the rear brake while the reservoir is filled, thus preventing the rears from locking up first. Once the reservoir is filled the same pressure is applied to the rears as the fronts. Anyway, that's how I've interpreted the info.

Last week I went for a drive in a 500bhp Cobra, WOW, unbelievable performance. Anyway, the chap told me he got knocked back on 76 items when he took it for rego - despite having an engineer approve it. I just don't want too many such issues when (if) I take it in. Back to the brake lines. I just took a look at my daughter's 2006 Corolla and it has the line through the inner guard (see photo) and they appear to have an extra protective coating on them. It kinda makes you wonder why Datsun went the 'under rails' route with the S30s. It also gave me the idea that there is no need to run the lines down to the rails in the first place. My plan now is to keep them up higher on the guards and then pass them through.

Thinking of re-routing the front brake lines as I'm a bit concerned that heat from the V8 extractors might be an issue with brake fluid temperature. I'm also surprised that the OEM lines run under the engine rails and are somewhat exposed to road debris. Is there some engineering/registration issue (possible chaffing) with running the line through the inner guard, with a grommet to protect the line, to finish at the standard hose connection point? I've also thought of passing the line through the inner guard close to the firewall, then along the top of the ridge/lip on the outside of the engine rail, to finish at the standard hose connection point. Any thoughts?

I used this stuff. http://www.knockout-rust.com.au/information.html I applied it initially before I fitted the rails and sills, then afterwards although it was very easy to weld through.

Give some thought to fitting a GM diff. Huge range of ratios and cheap as chips after the initial install. I picked up a 3.07 LSD for $150 off eBay (with CVs)!

Jack - At one stage I was thinking of modifying the windscreen and read where hotrod guys remove excess laminated glass by high-pressure sand blasting rather than cutting. If that's the case I wonder if waterjet cutting might also work? For the side windows have you considered just using Lexan.