PeterAllen

Thanks - So just the edge (thickness) of the Lexan is glued and not the face that sits on the lip (now covered in foam). Have I got that right? What thickness of Lexan do you suggest?

I wonder if any of the racing chaps have fitted a Lexan rear window (without the OEM seal) and would describe how they did it. I'm worried that drilling holes in the Lexan too close to the edge will end in tears.

It might be worth a try to email Khalid and ask if he can supply just the material and/or made up items. http://www.interior-innovations.com/index.php/welcome/pages/contact_us One member has stated he sent over rear 2+2 seats and they were used as a pattern to make new one. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,13191.0.html He is a fabulous guy to deal with.

Find a fabrication shop in Hong Kong with an English Wheel (Wheeling Machine) and have one made 100mm larger that the opening. Spot weld it to the existing roof and blend it in with lead or poly filler.

'RUSH' The acting was great, the direction was great, the cinematography was great, never a flat spot as it kept going at a good pace. Only problem for me was I knew the story details too well but the family love it. For those thinking of taking young'uns there is a fairly constant stream of four letter words and a few nipples but tame by MA ratings. Wet myself at the scene with Marlene's car. Last time I went to the pictures was to see Crocodile Dundee so make of this review what you will.

John - Thanks. Whilst the body shape of my GTO is absolutely fantastic the actual laying up of the fiberglass was very ordinary. There is no gel coat, it has never been painted and there are many areas that have been patched with bog, probably over 10 years ago. I only know of three other kits worldwide of this shape and I'm unclear whether this one was a production item or built as part of the buck/mould process. It has passed through at least four owners in Australia and goodness knows what went on in the US before that. It's a basket case. I've previously thought of it as something of an enigma but lately it seems more like an enema! I'm setting about some major fibreglass reshaping but that doesn't worry me as much as the old bog issue, there are patches of it all over the bodywork.

As the title states, how can I tell if body filler already applied is epoxy or polyester as I believe it is not recommended to mix the two?

I have the striker but I'm happy to take both if it's a package offer.

Murphy's law - after safely storing it for years I have within the last two weeks, in my new minimalist* mode, mistakenly thrown out the hatch latch that came with my car. Anyone have a spare? Help! * Perhaps, more quarsi-minimalist ... well, less messy really... okay, okay, when I moved some stuff to find other stuff.

Like I stated back in reply #7, fit a GM (or Ford) diff. Plenty of ratios to choose from, e.g. 3.07, 3.46. 3.73 or 3.91. All cheap as chips with CVs.

The axis of rotation is 75mm above the bumper mounting holes, if you do that you can rotate them with one hand. Do yourself a favour and don't hand strip the paint, have it blasted and etch primed. You will need to remove the interior soundproofing beforehand. Two years is plenty of time to have it finished.

Thanks Craig - glad it worked out and good to know.

I cannot believe how outstanding the personal service and product is from that supplier. He responded straightaway to e-mails (day and night) as we worked through the colours, material and pattern. When I placed the order they arrived in 12 days... Fantastic.

Gavin Being geographically close to Daring Harbour doesn’t always translate to cheaper and faster transport. Have you considered some suburbs on the Illawarra Line which lie between the high-rise suburbs of Tempe and Hurstville - suburbs like Kogarah, Carlton? They are less latte sipping DINKs and more family orientated (garden, pets & garage) and there are quite a few available with the options you are after. You might want to consider at least having a look.

I'm staggering to the finish line with this project and I'm about to prepare the panels for painting. Considering the amount of work involved I thought I might purchase an air sander but I'm a little confused about what I should buy. What is the difference, if any, between an orbital sander and a palm sander? Should I use a bag to catch the dust or attach it to a Handi-Vac I have for cleaning up the shed? Comments and recommendations appreciated.

Welcome and apologies for the present Sydney weather - not like an Irish spring I bet! Nothing like starting at Rose Bay and working you way down the desirability ladder. There was a popular song in the 60s/70s about the Rose Bay ferry - a nice way to start the day. Just yell out (or e-mail) if you are after info or assistance.

The trouble with 'Rush' is that I know the ending! The Anoraks are already having a field day with it, e.g. NL is not wearing an AGV at Nurburgring.

Yes, I read that somewhere, it probably explains why the postage is also relatively cheap.. It pains me not to use local people but the price differential is so stark it makes it impossible no to buy these, considering the quality review are very good. I sent an e-mail off to Khalid this afternoon with a special order request and he has already responded... clearly late at night in Michigan. All the indicators are good so far... now if we could just get that dollar back to $1.05.

I've tracked down their non-eBay site. http://www.interior-innovations.com/index.php/welcome/pages/about_us I noticed the price is $175 compared to the $200 on eBay!

Has anyone imported a set from this mob, if so, any feedback? Thanks. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Datsun-240Z-260Z-Nissan-240Z-260Z-Synthetic-Leather-Seat-Covers-/171108221036?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27d6d8406c EDIT. Jan 2016 - This link no longer goes to the item. See link in post #3 and email or phone Khalid directly.

Adam - This news is an inspiration to us long-term builders.

A bit of paint off the fibreglass going up Bitipave, no big deal... Been there, done that.

Craig So it is not a structural issue of itself but rather a flex issue causing a misalignment of the tailshaft and an imbalance at certain revolutions?

David – I went through this exercise. I phoned the RTA and they advised there were no specific requirements. I conducted my own research by measuring a few vehicles and found the pedal spacing for clutch and brake was very similar on most cars so I figure it is some ergonomics thing that works itself out. Fortunately for me the Holden ‘drive by wire’ accelerator had a long rod (similar to the std) which I can shape to any position and I’ll modify that by trial and error. It will depend on how much travel there is of the brake pedal. I think you are best to find an existing arrangement you are happy with and replicated the positions. I don’t feel it’s something that can be calculated by theory/ formula. One issue I did discover is that the foot pad plates (welded to the pedal shaft) were also all very close in shape and this allowed me to fit the Holden foot pads with only a small extension to the plates. In fact the Holden were a pretty good fit in the first place but if you are doing heel and toe you don’t want any flex in the foot pad so I did the modification. Note; I have offset the pivot bush for the clutch as the m/c has been moved to facilitate installation of the Holden booster. (edit) The diagram is something I found in my research and i kept in a folder. Looking at it now I now realise it worth diddly squat!