PeterAllen

Richard - Why the 5 speed and not the 6... weight? Just a couple of comments from my own build: - Think about creating a whole new engine cross-member incorporating engine mounts, even if the mounts are separate. Also, incorporate different steering rack mounts to assist with minimising bumpsteer. - Design your extractors at the same time you are working on the engine mounts, you will probably have to compromise on the optimum design of both to get a working solution. Also, there is bugger-all clearance around the starter motor. - If you are creating new rails incorporate crush sleeves to mount the gearbox cross-member and to add removable cross braces nearer to the diff. - I don't know why I keep harping on about this as no one else seems interested but consider using a GM diff. Mine is the older style out of a VZ but the newer VE diffs are all alloy. Keep us posted on progress.

Darius You really should engage an engineer now, advice like this is part of the service they offer. I'm not suggesting there is anything wrong with Mark's, or your way of doing it but engineers vary in how they want things done. Don't fall into the trap of you thinking it's all okay and then jumping up and down when no engineer will pass it. For your consideration.

Phil Those dimensions are not really based on a specific setup, they come about by being the maximum adjustment before the control arm (Datsun call them a 'transverse link') will foul on the cross-member. In fact you have to grind away a bit - Note: not as much as I have indicated in the photo. I think my setup might be unique in that I'm running 26" dia front tyres (29"rears) on 6" rims because I was after a period look for the GTO. I think I will actually get away with fitting the spacers under the hub carriers as well but I'll probably have to make up a spacer for the steering arm also. With this modification you can lower the front 19mm and still have the control arm horizontal - if fitted with original wheel/tyres. If you are lowering any more you should consider an aditional spacer. You really need to check your own car to see how horizontal it is with your ride height/wheels/tyres and go from there.

No worries Benny, I appreciate the interest and input. I've been busy today attaching the sleeves to the front hub carriers. Rather than the AZC approach of a single weld I've followed the advice of a Kiwi on here and prepared for a series of rosette welds in addition to the circular weld at the base.

Yes, I've had them for years just sitting in the lounge room (along with the Wilwoods) waiting until I could fit them. The AZC's are base adjustable as I understand it, however, I need a different datum point to that recommended by Dave.

Thanks Paul. I agree, I think it has to be done on a case by case basis. I'm running the 250lbs/inch (5kg/mm) springs which may also vary from what you are using and could make a difference.

I drilled another cross-member today and took some photos of the process: Mounted the cross-member on the mill. Drilled new holes 19mm higher and 6mm outwards. Made and fitted new spreader plates - the old ones were mangled when chiscelled off. Filled the old holes with weld. I still need to dress it all and have it media blasted prior to painting.

Thanks Paul… You’re probably just the person to advise on this as your car is probably lowered significantly. I have removed the spare tyre well and I’m running narrow, high aspect ratio tyres to keep a period look on the GTO. The rear tyres are 29” dia. This allows a huge lowering capability while retaining over 100mm ground clearance. The installation guide on the Arizona Z site suggest retaining 3 ½’ (85-90mm) of the strut tube, but, where the adaptor sleeve is welded onto the tube depends on individual ride height requirements. To get the lowest ride height on my car (100mm ground clearance) the threaded adaptor sleeve needs to be welded almost touching the hub carrier (like the front struts), i.e. 50-60mm lower than the starting position recommended in the instructions. Also, with the shock screwed as deep as possible into the adaptor sleeve there appears to be about 50mm of safe height adjustment (up). A couple of questions: Am I going about this the right way, i.e. working from the lowest ride height upwards? Is 50mm enough ride height adjustment or am I likely to want more?

I have a question to ask about adjustment and cutting the struts for fitting the rear coilovers. My query is rather detailed so I would like to contact someone who has actually fitted them, i.e not someone who had them fitted.

The rotisserie I referred you to has been copied many times and proven to work with 2 seaters and 2+2s (peter T). I didn't use the front bumper points as I thought the protruding panels on which they are located might not have good lateral strength, i.e. when the shell is a 90 degrees, so I designed the brackets to bolts along the front frame rails. Now that I realise the front is so light - you can lift it with one hand - I think to use the front bumper mounts would in fact be okay. I would also note those panels which protrude from the radiator surround are often damaged and mounting on the bumper point may make working on them difficult. Mounting off the rear bumper points is okay. Remember to have the axis of rotation 75mm above the bumper mounting points and the car will be perfectly balanced. Standard engine stands ($40 eBay) need a 300mm insert in the vertical member to give you the right workable height and to clear an 8 foot ceiling with fluor light. (edit) the screwdriver can be either flat or phillips head.

http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,6090.0.html

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQm5BnhTBEQ

Someone recently sent me this link. http://streetlens.com/ Not sure if people were aware of this place.

I tried to offload a whole bunch of stuff 12 months ago but got very few takers. I think (and I could be doing a Barry O'Farrell here) I gave away two heaters to Graham H. If you need a contact let me know.

Can these be purchased new or does anyone have a spare in good nick?

Gavin - Is that the start of a new term? I've finished the painting so I now need to make the interior trim in aluminium as well as some other stuff including frames for the sliding windows. I'll probably enrol for the next term. Are you Tue or Wed night?

I've put in a busy morning attacking the rubber, clutch pedal stop on a 240Z with a flat bastard. Now I'm off for my post-lunch nap and then I'll drive the Volvo down to the bowling club. Life's all 'go' in retirement.

Thanks for the offer but I'll stick with the original... I like a bit of patina.

I'm afraid my old tired eyes didn't spot that: A= 36, B = 39. Nor did I know that was a rubber pad. It was sprayed with etch primer when I had the shell sandblasted and then sprayed with 2 pac when I did the interior. I'll have to remove it tomorrow and scrape the paint off. What would Frank and Derek have said about such shoddy work? The 32mm is measured from the bottom of the hole in the firewall for the steering column and the 30mm is from the centre of the threaded hole. Correct An absolute truism.

Oh, so it won't be fitted for a couple of years then!

Peter I have this in my 3/72, 240Z.

If you run <4 degrees (compound angle) you can use rubber couplings (Jurid, etc). That's what I've done. I've raised this several times before but I don't know why more Holden diffs are not installed? There is a huge range of ratios and they run 930 Porsche CVs of which there are cheap clones as they are the choice of off-roaders. The diffs are cheap and axles are available from off-road sources.

Gas Monkey's Ferrari. That's an oxymoron. Yes, I saw the episode and I cried all they way through it.

It's not a Devaux Spyder, if that's what's being suggested. I'd bet my kiwifruits it is a NZ design, based on a 1938 Alfa Romeo

What colour do you want it in?