PeterAllen

Thanks chaps but I must be missing something. I assumed there would be nozzles poking through the cowl somewhere. What's the go?

Can someone post an image of the washer jet/s on a RHD 240Z? Thanks. I've searched Google images but no luck.

http://finance.ninemsn.com.au/newsbusiness/aap/8926200/aust-post-sets-up-warehouse-in-us http://shopmate.auspost.com.au/

I haven't read any of you state what is actually wrong with it... Next you'll tell me not to put sawdust in the diff to quieten it down or to stop using coathangers as filler rod!

You, me, carpark NOW. That's girly rust. Hit it inside and out with rust converter, then a wire brush, apply an etch primer, smear on Sikaflex 227 (using a 25mm wide brush with the bristles trimmed down to 10mm) then spray some stonechip gunk on the underside. That will get you through rego and hold until you do a major restoration. Just a suggestion. Do all the mechanical, body and electrical work before you do the seats and other 'bling' items, otherwise you will be fretting over damaging them whilst the other work is carried out. If they are soiled by a repairer you will have endless issues about who is responsible, etc. I have had some 'bling' items, including leather seat covers, stored for years just waiting for the day. PS. Sorry we didn't get to chat on Sunday - too many people and not enough time.

Six of the eight Zeds which turned up. First stop at Stanwell Tops Lunch at Bungendore Pub Canberra cars Ian's Rally Zed Cozza - caption competition! My thanks to Mick, Vince and Dave for allowing me to ride in their passenger seats on various legs of the run, and a special thanks to George for organising the day.

Peter, what do you mean by a "four bolt column"? Are you just referring the the plate which attaches to the firewall and appears to have a shaft bearing attached? If so, couldn't you just knock-up a new plate?

They are Dayton wire wheels like mine but he/she has just stuck Ferrari stickers on the caps - sloppy.

I'll take the headlights - thanks

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281468066502?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT All that work and then knock-offs from a $2 shop!

Just like to state how I enjoy your detailed posts. Content is interesting and informative. Thanks,

What do you mean "again". They could not prove it and I'll have you know the charges were dropped...

I'm in.

Thanks David. It's getting so close now I can almost taste it!

Could someone tell me the dimension indicated in the photo - Thanks. Thanks to whoever posted this photo originally - I nicked it off Google Images.

Still there - just type '240Z' into eBay. Next suburb to you George! Seller looks like a wheeler dealer.

They are 'dad jokes', pathetic one-liners that dads repeat over and over again when a situation arises and they are too stupid to say anything remotely intelligent. It's a nervous reaction. While it is largely good-natured ribbing I would agree that, like dad jokes, it can wear a bit thin after a while. It's the same as the differences between the purist (patina, etc), the restorers (chrome everything), the modify crowd (flares, etc) and those pathetic Hybrid lot (V8s and GTO kits). Add to that the 'did it myself' vs 'paid for someone to do it' crowds. It's no different from NSW v Vic v SA v Qld v WA, etc. (See how I left out TAS just to annoy them!) It's just Aussies 'taking the micky'. Mate, your car looks great. I would be very proud to own it and other examples like PeterT's.

I was naturally interested the example they used, the 250 GTO and in the fact they can recreate the exact component with all its idiosyncrasies. However, I can tell you that you don't need a computer to do that. As all 250 GTO were hand build and had somewhat hard racing lives the body dimensions vary from car to car, and within each car. One even has the driver's door 10mm longer than the passenger's door, but, by simply relying on my natural inabilities have been able to recreate a similar disparity!

I'm getting a little confused by this (nothing new there) but the pedal pads on my 3/72 240Z were slip-ons, albeit a very tight fit. I replaced them with the pads from the VZ Holden donor car, after I had welded on an extra bit of plate to create the same size metal pedal as the VZ. The VZ pads were also slip-on. I don't really understand the screw/glue requirement?

To improve the strength and durability of the fibreglass front you might consider using fibreglass rope to create a firm edge. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/12mm-Wood-fire-Stove-Heater-door-rope-seal-gasket-Fiberglass-BLACK-/251587747802?pt=AU_Heaters&hash=item3a93cc5fda After rubbing back the surface around the edge just soak the rope in resin (with hardener) and lay it around the edge. You can later sand it and finish with either a bit of bog or Qcells mixed with resin. Here is a photo of the rope in position to cut to length and another edge with the fibreglass set. The second photo shows the finished process on another bit of bodywork.

Sorry to dash peoples' hopes but here is the blurb: Follow auto expert Mike Brewer as he navigates his way through the culture and idiosyncrasies of the international used car. Starting with just $3000, Mike’s mission is to trade his way across the globe, using his dealer tricks to add value to his cars, enabling him to graduate from a cheap hatchback to a super car worth $40,000. Mike begins by heading down under to Australia, where he is tracking down a Mark 1 Ford Escort. He then heads back home to the UK where he attempts to sell the Escort, and later he hunts for a Chevy Opala in Brazil, and a classy E-Type Jag in Texas. All this and more in the brand new series of ‘Wheeler Dealers: Trading Up’.

This series is scheduled to premier on 10th October 2014. I didn't notice any reference to Australia or Datsun in the promo so I have no idea of the content, however I have only seen it once. I'm sure it will be replayed 10,000 times between now and the 10th!

Pete. i worry at the age most of us seem to get to before our cars are finished enough to run.

I haven't been involved with engines for a long long time but one thing I do remember was the heat treatment process which created a hard surface on contact areas. Cam lobes and rocker faces had a very hard surface around 0.003"-0.005" deep. It was called nitriding. I can remember people grinding through that hardened layer when trying to remove wear marks or re-profiling a cam. The re-worked cams and rockers wore out in no time. I'm not sure what manufacturing processes are used these day on new cams but I would be wary on grinding the surface of 40 year old cams unless they can be heat treated again.

Coverage runs from around 6:00pm to 3:00am AEST It was actually sunny yesterday for practice! Live link here: http://grrc.goodwood.com/goodwood-revival/revival-social-stream Here is the entry list: http://cdn.gwsrv.net/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/Revival-Entry-List-FINAL.pdf