PeterAllen

I don't want to fit it if I don't have to. Fact is I don't have one but if needed where is a good place to buy one, and the seal?

Just flatten it out from inside the cabin with a piece of 4" x 2" about 30cm long, and a hammer. Place the timber over the dent and give it a tap, gradually increasing the strength of the blows until the floor flattens out.

It's a donor not a crate so it's already run in. Brissie, The Hunter, Great Ocean Road, Tassie, Barossa, etc, etc, they're all on the list. It will be a pleasure to meet all the folks who have assisted me with this project.

I'm not 100% sure on this but when you tighten the bolt does it not fix the brass bush in position and prevent rotation?

Pity. Just a reminder for Sydney folks to keep the morning of the 12th April free!

Thanks to Alan (zeds4ever) i have a working handbrake lever. I was just in the cabin installing it and I noticed I could see the trouble light under the car. There is quite a gap between the thin flat plate, which supports the electrical switch, and the curved metal of the tunnel. Does anyone know if there is some seal/gasket for this or does it rely on the tunnel trim in a completed car? Thanks.

Pete - Stephen Fryer Engineering, at Kirrawee, 9542-3487. Not that far from your work. Real old-school. Has made lots of stuff for the GTO and has plenty of high quailty experience with racing cars in Europe and USA. Most importantly very good pricing. Tell him I sent you.

Just a point we have not covered but you may have addressed. I would not assume the squares on the S30 couplings are perfectly square. I machined mine to ensure they were. You may have to true it in a lathe after welding and then redrill the six holes in the spacer.

An Alfa ay... you will become an expert on rust repairs... very handy for the Z.

That's just being slack. No project should take that long!

Like lampy I just machined mine to suit as I had the relative luxury of creating a new shaft to length. I have attached a file from a GT40 site which might assist with some of the dimensions. You will really struggle to get it down to 10mm and still have structural integrity. I suggest you consider if this is doable. - do away with the grease retainer cover. That should give you a couple of mm. - measure the amount of protrusion of the cage at around 22-25 degrees and make that the depth of your recess. (I have assumed the inner Nissan tripod unit will facilitate plunge?) Actually if you go ahead with the next step you could just bore it through. - WELD the S30 outer flange to the new adaptor. You may need to first make a circular plate (approx 4mm thick) to slip over, and be welded to, the square S30 outer flange. This could then be turned true prior to welding to the 930 adaptor (see sketch). On second thoughts, the 930 adaptor and the circular-square adaptor could be manufactured as one piece. The key to this is the depth of the cage protrusion AND minimising distortion when welding - get a pro to do it. (edit) I just thought of another idea. Why not buy two diff output shafts from a Holden wrecker and machine off the shaft component - two ready-made 930 adaptors? Further, as you are not fitting grease retainers you could machine the face of these to the thickness of the retainers, or more.

Bonjour Sean. I've read your posts on Z Club for some time. The search for parts and information to restore and maintain S30s has grown to a global scale and I expect your knowledge and experience will be sincerely appreciated here. Pierre (A mate of 'moggy240') Sean. À peu près tous les membres du forum sont mono-linguale ou plus susceptibles d'avoir une langue asiatique. J'ai essayé de passer à l'anglais sur votre forum, mais sans succès. Dois-je signer pour que cela fonctionne?

I'm not convinced that's anything other than a placebo item Nissan used to placate whinging customers. Bugger, but I did have the right item (less rubber), it must be the only thing I thrown out.

Reading the 'Dadson Racing' thread I noticed a reference to "steering rack bump/rotation stop u bolt". I kinda remember that I had a U-clamp on my steering rack which I though a previous owner had fitted for reasons unknown to me, anyway I discarded it. Is the clamp OEM? Is is always necessary? Is there a design fault or does the rack only rotate if incorrect rubber bushes are used on the steering rack clamps? Photo from Dadson thread. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v621/Tommo560/2010%20Rebuild/P2012063_zps00281274.jpg

I visited my local Clark Rubber store (Caringbah) on the 23rd to buy some vacuum hose and the store was shut. It was fully stocked but a note on the door said "administrators appointed". Note sure if it's the whole chain.

To answer my own question... I've just found this photo I took years ago when I first stripped it down. A lesson there to anyone doing a rebuild - photograph and document the disassembly, you never know how long it might be before it's screwed back together.

Just fitting the Woza handbrake cable for the Wilwoods and noticed how close one cable passes to a little hook on the clamp used to secure the fuel and brake line along the transmission tunnel. Is the standard cable supposed to pass through the hook?

Alan. You might be confusing the two old Peters here. 'peter t' is the silly old fart from Qld, whereas 'PeterAllen' (me) is the suave, sophisticated gent from NSW, who is still in need of the handbrake. I've had a look at the Service Manual and there is no exploded view which suggest the trigger mechanism is integrated into the lever, meaning I need a whole lever as shown.

+1 for Ferguson's

Thanks Alan. If nothing comes up closer I take the boss for a drive up there. Peter (ex Lithgow boy)

The handbrake lever has been stored away for years while the project was undertaken. I just retrieved it to clean and install and I've noticed it doesn't have the trigger mechanism - I'm assuming a push-rod and spring at least. Are these separate items or do I need a whole second-hand handbrake mechanism?

Just stay off the hard stuff...

I would think twice about that. Beat them down to keep as much meat as possible to aid durability. My fibreglass, aluminium and perspex doors weigh bugger-all, so I can probably get away with minimal interference. It might be different with metal and glass doors.

That's a strange name for a Japanese policewoman.

The pin fit is nice and tight, BUT, I have another issue. The heads of the bushes sit too proud and there is considerable interference. I'm thinking about this for a bit. I squeezed them in with aluminium soft jaws in the vice and they dug into the aluminium. I don't want to use the hard jaws as they have a knurl pattern. I might have a go with a screw press tomorrow with smooth hard faces. You obviously want some interference so how much they are to be compressed will be determined by incremental adjustment.