PeterAllen

John - I'm raising these points as much for my own curiosity as anything. Why, if you are not having a direct alignment are you bothering to align the diff in one plane (with the associated unequal length driveshafts) but not the other.

John - Don't you need to consider the diff in a 'whole of drivetrain' approach? If you cannot achieve a direct alignment for jurid couplings won't you have to pitch the diff at the same angle as the engine/gearbox for the yoke/spider universals? I didn't finalise the diff until I had the engine and gearbox installed and I made the gearbox and diff mounts at the same time.

That's interesting AM information on TNF.

I purchased one from this seller - no dramas. http://stores.ebay.com.au/A1-EXPORTSERVICE Which horn button are you proposing to use?

I recall that and I thought it might have been 'Blue Oval' - Terry Oxandale. It wasn't, but he has an interesting rear diff mount (see fuel cell album). Why he mounts the battery so close to the fuel tank I'll never know - well I do know, weight distribution but damn stupid if you ask me. http://www.fototime.com/ftweb/bin/ft.dll/home?userid=7DC317B08EDB4B2EA837F708D07C9769&inv=9C67398D46D99D9 This might be what you were thinking of David. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/50499-differential-cv-lsd-hp-torque-r160-r180-r200-r230-diff-mount-faq/

garvice - I think you may be right. I was incorrectly thinking about the strap mounting points which I have utilised. I had been thinking how I might tie those forward control arm points but I hadn't finalised anything, John's cradle nicely addresses that issue. These are old 'R&D' photos. (edit) On third thouhts no, not the OEM brace. but a 25mm x 25mm one might.

John - The forward control arm mount beam will most likely have to be round tube and shaped either over or under the input flange of the diff. You may also need to use a similar approach to the beams carrying the front mounting brackets as you need to keep them tucked up tight against the diff profile so that you maximise the space to also keep the exhaust tucked up in that area. Great concept.

Exciting - any chance you could sketch something over a photo so I can interpret exactly what you're planning?

I got my remote bleed line from Mal Wood but there are DYI designs on the internet. You might also need a 90 degree reverse indicator switch connector due to the lack of room. They were fitted to Mustangs with t56s - again, I obtained one from Mal Wood.

I could be cynical and ask if the M@S guy was also kind enough to say he could make up the adaptors for a price! My thought is this; the tailshalf assembly is only as strong as it's weakest link, and if Holden and BMW fit 'guibo' joints them they must be capable of handling the power and torque. What they can't tolerate is deflection so they are always fitted in an accurate alignment situation. Fortunate for me my gearbox and diff aligned perfectly and I have used a 'guibo' on each end. Admittedly I will be running 60s period narrow tyres and combined with the light weight of the car the weak link in my drivetrain will be the the tyre contact with the road.

John - Just make sure your engineer is happy with the cradle design before you get too far into it - that it's within the regulations, etc. I'll be following closely as I'm not completely happy with my Holden diff mounting configuration and would welcome an alternative.

Saxon - I think you are wrong, that's probably the best use of money you will ever experience in your automotive dealings. Sorry in one sense it turn out that way but it was a valuable lesson not only for you but for us all. Good luck with your future purchases.

Don't take anything any seller tells you at face value. Contact VICROADS and give them the details you have and see if it matches their records. Big engines require big brakes - has he mentioned whether the brakes are also approved? Do your homework. If the details (e.g. engine capacity, etc) don't match with VICROADS then ask an Approving Engineer to inspect it for you. Good luck... I'm not trying to put you off, I just don't want to see you buy a lemon.

You young upstart... I've got a good mind to shell out $2.50 and catch a train all the way up to your place and sort you out. If only my arthritis was playing up in this winter weather.

NOTE: Ignore all the stuff about being a trainee, etc, it's for old farts and young wipper-snappers who want to fix their own cars.

A new, more affordable evening course has been introduced at St George TAFE at Kogarah. http://www.sit.nsw.edu.au/courses/search.php?cid=27665&area=courses&Media_Index_ID=169 Late notice but the enrollments are today (29th) and tomorrow (30th) until 7PM. It's $280 for a full six months of four hours one night a week. If you are interested call Dave at the college on 95986125. Hope to see some members there.

Craig - Good points and the wire wheels weigh a tonne as well. The LS1 install (alloy block, etc) is claimed to add only 15kg over the standard S30 (1044kg). I have an all fibreglass front and the fibreglass doors with sliding perspex windows are an enormous weight saving. It will be interesting to see the final weight - if ever I get the thing finished!

Good memory Tim - I actually had to measure it again today to confirm 47 litres. The LS1 in a 1700kg Ute gets around 13.5 lts/100km on a road test and that would give me around 350km/ tank. I'm hopeful that the same LS1 in an 1100kg S30 could give around 10-11 lts/100km and that equates to around 450 km/tank. It will not be a daily drivers so I think it will work out okay. Blessed are the Pacemakers... No offence intended, Rev et. al.

NZeder - I've removed the spare tyre well. The photos are from last week before the straps were made.

Got the finished tank today. I might be bias but I think it's worthy of a place in the Guggenheim. I don't know when I'll fit it as I still like just looking at it.

Yes, but that's combining Warren's and mine... I often wonder why they are still at home but when I read post like the one above I realise there isn't a great pool of talent from which they could choose.

Alan - I agree that Warren and Miriam are great folks, we swap stories about our 20something daughters, and that why I was finding it odd not being able to get in contact at that time. Someone on this site lent me a part I urgently needed and I was very keen to replace it with one from Warren. You've just reminded me I still need to do it. Thanks.

Alan - About six months ago I had a great deal of trouble contacting Warren. I even drove there from 'The Shire' only to find the place shut. Do you know if he is trading regular hours?

Linton - Apologies if I've got this wrong but what you have is a butt joint scenario. That will have to be welded and the filler you use will then depend on the amount required to achieve an even surface. I think what Ian is recommending is correct but it assumes you have a lap joint. which would probably have been the better way to go.

Absolutely weld it. I was just suggesting the lead to fill any large depressions.