PeterAllen

In my case it's envy.

No problem Tim.

Thanks.

Most of these kits were started 10-20 years ago when people would pay you to take their Z away. Some kits are up to their 2nd, 3rd or even 4th builder. It's certainly much more of a dilemma these days whether to modify a Z. I'm not sure their scarcity will ever make them valuable. I agree with 'gilltech' about the description and perhaps 'tribute' is even stretching it a bit far. I use the term 'kit car'.

I'm thinking of making an aluminium bonnet but I'm trying not to have too many compound curves. Does this bump the cowl cover have any practical purpose (clearance, etc) or is it simply cosmetic, a flow-on from the faux bulge in the standard bonnet?

Loui - make sure you drain and blow dry all the fuel ways - carby or injectors. My engine sat for 2 years and the fuel coagulated in the injectors. As far as body panels go, just use the study like I did.

Sorry I'm just getting up to speed on this thread, but "yes" someone has, here in Oz and a V12 too. Don't ask for details as I can say no more. John - Have you obtained a quotation for your engineering approval, if not it might be wise to do so. One gingerbeer quoted me $6k just for the brake testing, needless to say he is not the one I signed up with. Also, once you sign up they give you a number and you only have to meet the standards at the time the number was allocated.

Don't worry John, we've all done a Murray Walker... In my case, more than once.

Unless I'm very much mistaken... you are very much mistaken.

They are a fairly universal item. Try a ship chandlers.

Sir Jack - There are several French persons (or Pom expats) who contribute to this Pommie Datsun site. http://zclub.net/ . One of them might be able to answer your questions. If I recall correctly I think Adam has referenced one such person and didn't one post some photos of his car at a hillclimb or sprint meeting some time back.

Lamborghini Espada - 4 seater

Any help?

Qld http://www.ottoinstruments.com.au/

I think it might be the Glasspar G2 which Jerry Wood restored.

That's the route I'm taking. Just a slight relocation of the m/c with minor modifications to the pedal.

Re: the clutch m/c - with a bell-crank arrangement you could possibly position the m/c on the passenger side.

I see where the Longford Revival is scheduled for early April. Are there only demonstration runs on the 'Flying Mile' or is it open to competition? It would be interesting to see how Mick and the other Tassie Zed owners would go. Attending those nostalgia events in one thing driving me to finish my project.

Did he go LS2 on the rebuild? I thought he just replaced it with another 5.669 litre LS1.

To Tim and the others - best wishes for the safety of your families, yourselves and your assets during the next 24 hours.

Alan - a 280 cannot go into a 240 as a 'minor modification' as it is an increase of 16.6%, i.e.>15%. A 280 can go into a 240 with an Engineer Approved 'major modification. In the course of my project I've got to know a few guys at the RTA and they are qualified mechanics and car enthusiasts. They don't make the rules they just tell you what they are - Pollies and senior bureaucrats make the rules, usually in response to hysteria from a media beat up. The guys on the front desk cop it from all directions so if you confront them with 'an attitude' you will get what's coming to you. AND make it hard for others!

NSW has its own regulations. http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/registration/downloads/vsi/vsi_06_-_guidelines_for_light_vehicle_modifications_nov_2007.pdf I read this to imply upgrading a 260 with a 280 engine is a 'minor modification', i.e >15%. I find it always best to phone the RTA's technical enquiries and writedown what the officer says - and ask for their name. Don't rely on what 'a mate of my mate's cousin reckons'! (edit) Oops... meant to type '< 15%'.

Which of course led to the magnificent 250 GTO. OT: I going to Goodwood next year and I'm thinking of taking in Pebble Beach on the way... Have you been to PB?

Tim - Buy, borrow or purloin some 16mm or 5/8" rod about 2-3 times longer than the spindles and replace the spindles with the rod. Measure the distances between the ends of the rods across the car. That should help you identify whether the toe-in is in the chassis/arms or elsewhere. The spindles by themselves are too short to get an accurate measurement. NOTE: If you have not recently removed the spindles FORGET this procedure! Removing old spindles is a weekend's work in itself - and that's with the right tools.

Tim - My 2 seater 240 is a (3/72) and it has the same 'welded' construction as those fitted to your car.