PeterAllen

Scott - While you're at it you should relocate the coils, I might be old-fashioned but in my opinion they really detract from the appearance of the engine bay. I relocated mine to the inner guards but you can please yourself where they mount.

Scott - I'm sure this has been discussed on HydridZ somewhere in the Gen III & IV threads but you would have to do a 'search'. http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/74-gen-iii-iv-chevy-v8z-tech-board/ Also, surprisingly to me, there are plenty of Cobras (kits) fitted with LSx engines here in Oz. Here is one thread about LSx harnesses - not sure if your interest is specifically raised but there might be others, again, try 'search'. http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/australian-cobra-club/117086-ls3-ecu-wiring-harness.html I retained the cruise control in mine. I sent mine away to Killa Kustom Auto Electricians (top guy) and had it done - cheap as chips.

There are some inconsistencies within this story but there is still a lesson to be learnt. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/116592-fatigue-or-just-bad-fabrication-work/

To follow David's theme - Did Mark use a butt joint and seam weld? You only have to wave a match at the roof and it will distort, that why you use a lap joint. bonding compound and a few strategic spot welds. (edit) Looks like Lachlan has given the reason.

Good point Mark, I missed that. But doesn't it make for a terribly expensive and complicated way to patch a hole in the roof.

Gavin - Is this about the sunroof or do you have rust in the structural members? If it's the sunroof then I think you are going about it the wrong way. All you have to do is roll a section of roof on an English Wheel the size of the opening +10mm and swage or joggle a step around the perimeter, then apply a bit of bonding to the lip and spot weld it in place. Less than an hour's work, all covered by your fees. I have a fibreglass roof you could take to TAFE to use as a template for the curvature. (edit) Also remember there are four layers in the roof pillars and each has to be welded at a stagger relative to an adjoining layer. You would need a pro to cut, align and weld and even then I'm not too sure it's legal!

I agree Peter, the funeral cost won't be my concern when I'm gone. George - If SWMBO isn’t onboard then don’t even start, however, there are ways to encourage her to walk up the gangway. I mentioned things like the two of us cruising through the Hunter vineyards and The Great Ocean Road and Tassie, whilst listening to Andre Rieu – I failed to mention there will be no audio system fitted! All good relationships are give and take so I encourage SWMBO to also ‘do her own thing’ and she is a season ticket holder with The Sydney Theatre Company where she goes with a girlfriend (hers) and she had a two week holiday in Italy with some friends. This means that car funds are limited but still flowing. I’m not afraid to remind her that it’s a two-way street and each time she returns from the hairdresser with a $200 cut, or whatever they call it, I remind her that’s the same price as some widget for the car. There seems to be a general rule about projects; - very carefully plan a schedule and costing, - revise with a very pessimistic focus, - multiply you final schedule and costing by four, - live with it.

I've got a Vintage Air unit $688 from the US - couple of years ago now. It was hard to find someone prepared to post to Oz but I got mine through Carolina Rod Shop. http://www.carolinarodshop.com/Store/htm_files/vintage_air.htm

Go to TAFE and make your own sills.

I have raised this issue on both Cobra and Clubman sites and it seems there is no way around using the later style belts. I really wanted to use the 60s style broad 'lift' buckles but they really only work for lap belts or a harness. The ergonomics of a lap/sash means that if worn correctly the buckle it too close to the tunnel to be latched and unlatched with any comfort and the point of having them is lost. Also I'm not sure that the style I like was still ADR compliant in 1972 (ADR 4), or in your case 1974+(ADR 4A). Nothing detracts from a Cobra or Super 7 replica than modern style seat belt but that's the way it is.

If anyone here won this on eBay and you are interested in a front section, then send me a PM. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-240Z-Ferrari-GTO-replica-/121250875856?pt=AU_Cars&hash=item1c3b1d89d0&clk_rvr_id=571146783127&clk_rvr_id=573911573843#ht_120wt_988

Takes me back a long time. I'll be interested to see how much the machining and parts cost.

George et al. It is not a structured course with a set curriculum. There are 'new starters' and chaps who have been doing it for years. On the first night you simple tell the teacher, Mark Natoli, (http://natolipanelcreations.com.au/) what your present skills are and he will take it from there. As a novice he can give you some exercises, e.g. make a hubcap, bonnet scoop, etc and he will give you a hand all the way showing you the techniques needed. Alternatively, for old farts like me, we simply say "g'day" and he lets me do my own thing until I ask him for assistance. It is a very friendly, non-intimidating environment. Note: Parking is a PITA, get there early, particularly at the start of a new year.

You can thank Barry O'Farrell for the price rise. In fact he wanted to scrap all TAFE courses that weren't directly job/employment related but there was quite a backlash with students writing to their local members. Funny thing is at $325 for 18 week we were struggling to get starters but when they jacked the price up the class was full... go figure?

They run it in four terms per year, not two semesters. What you are seeing there is the first and second terms. Gavin, and others, I suggest you sign up for both terms, the first to learn some basic skills. Believe you me it's not as easy as Paul shows it. There's quite an art to inserting metal fragments in your eye or running an oxy torch over your fingers, although how to slice your fingers on a piece of metal is quickly learned, probably in the first week!

That car, like most 250 GTOs, was built (or started) about 15-20 years ago when there were plenty of tired Zeds about and you could pick up a runner for $500. I do agree entirely about the engine choice.

Don't even try to rotate it, you may score the bore and if it is already maximum oversize you may ruin the block, or at least be up for a set of oversize pistons. Patience grasshopper.

Adam, I don't think you heard that too well, it was Juan Stirling Moss, he was a Spainard who drove a SEAT.

Sir Jack was around 40 at the time! That particular engine was from Leo's 39, the prettiest racing car ever. Here is a photo of the Rennmax I took at Winton (circa 1976) and one in its original form being lapped by a 240Z at Bathurst.

A Morgan or a Jaguar Mk II, failing that anything with wire wheels.

Do you have a weight, with or without rod-ends? Thanks

Imagine that!

That will require a lot of work to install. Just a note to others removing a well - remove via the spot welds.

Yes $17.5k Yes.