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reverendzed

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Everything posted by reverendzed

  1. O.K Guys, this is what we have so far. Rev - Dave Mayhem - Ben Biggles 240z - Richard ZZZ8 - Craig (possibly) Zedman240 - Dimitri Matt Drago - Matt C'mon guys lets see how many more we can get the weather looks like it will be great. Rev.
  2. It's amazing what you can pick up from others if you're willing to learn and it saves heaps of bucks too!
  3. Michael because I'm painting in my workshop at home I use Acrylic lacquer because it flashes off so quick and doesn't allow dust to embed so easily, unlike 2 pac which you're not supposed to spray outside of a booth or enamel which take longer to flash (dry between coats) The beauty of lacquer is that I can lay down 3 coats of color and 3 coats of clear, allow it to dry (overnight) wet sand it and polish and it comes up like glass! it's also very forgiving if you make a mistake as you can rub it back easily ad touch it up. I'm self taught and been playing with body work and paint for years and I'm still learning by sourcing info on the web etc. Good luck with your project. Rev.
  4. hey learner, welcome. some real quick differences are that 240 was available in Australia from i think 1969 - 1973 and only available in the 2.4, 2 seater coupe whereas the 260 was produced from 1974 - 1977/78 and available in the 2.6 Lt and had the option of 2 seater coupe or 2+2 (4 seater). Parts for the 240 are often much harder to find as they are with certain parts on the 260 coupe, the most available parts are for the 260 2+2. Hope this helps. Rev.
  5. Check out the shine!
  6. After always looking at my front fenders and wincing due to the bad paint blemishes and a few small 'bubbles' in the paint work I decided to pull them off this week, take them back to bare metal, cut rust, straighten, paint and refit, here's the progress
  7. Good point Richard, I'm happy to be guided by the majority. I can leave at what ever time. what would you suggest?
  8. That would be great Craig as you know more about this 'cruise' stuff than I do.
  9. Cheers Richard I'll add you to the list.
  10. O.K guys, with weather like this it means time to strap into the zed and go driving. Mayhem and I are going for a cruise up around the black spur to Healesville on Saturday 25 October, probably leaving from krispy Kreme at Fountain Gate Narre Warren about 9.30 at this stage. The more Zeds the better...obviously! If you have a UHF radio it helps so that we can keep in touch. Add your name if you think that you are coming. Rev - Dave Mayhem - Ben Biggles 240z - Richard
  11. In regard to your paint you may find that when they resprayed they didn't prepare well enough. what often happens is that people sand the paint without getting to the substrate,(either because they don't know any better or are paying for a cheap job!) they simply look to get a nice smooth feel before priming and topcoating. However if the paint is breaking down at any point on the panel the whole surface can be compromised. If the paint is metallic my guess would be that the previous paint had oxidised and probably had 'crows feet' in it that can be covered for a while with new paint but doesn't take long to return. the only cure for those panels that are breaking down is to take it back to bare metal and then build your paint structure from there, only then do you end up with a finish that will last. Take the time to have a really good look for any other little bubbles or imperfections that could be rust lurking underneath, better to get it now than to keep going back to the panel shop. I look forward to seeing the progress. Rev.
  12. Hey Pauly, I bought one last week that was a perfect fit from Rare Spares, cost me $150, give em a call. Rev.
  13. Anyone! before I list on EBAY
  14. Hi guys, I have a chrome fuel rail in excellent condition for sale that I bought hoping to fit it up to my 260....but...it doesn't! however if you have a 240 that's looking for chrome, this is for you offers over $100 and it's yours. Rev.
  15. Mayhem, how about you and I put our heads together and try and organise a drive/meet in the next few weeks and just see who can make it. Rev.
  16. Hey Vinny...I use a mig welder when I am working with thin metal such as the Zed, even then you have to be very careful on some of the panels not to warp or shrink the metal through getting it too hot, let me know if you need any more tips and I will do the best i can. Rev.
  17. reverendzed

    Building a L28

    You could try this link http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Z-240Z-280Z-510-620-New-86-5mm-Flat-Top-Pistons_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1421Q7c39Q3a1Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c240Q3a1318QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem160289740321QQitemZ160289740321 Or if that doesn't work type the item number into ebay U.S : 160289740321 don't know why your insurance would change between SU's and triples, I'm with Shannons and when I let them know Of my changes my premium only increased to cover the extra value (unless that's what you mean.... ) Rev.
  18. Thought I'd post up some of the lessons learned during my hatch 'refirb' that i've done over the last two days. Firstly I'm glad I decided to get to the little bit of rust that I could see protruding from the screen rubber as when I took out the hatch glass there was more cancer than first expected. I decided to take the whole thing back to bare metal which proved to be a bit of work as I came across at least 6 thick layers of paint. It was interesting to find that there ws even some 'factory' abrasions on the metal under the paint. I cut the rust and carefully welded so as not to get any warp, I do this by tacking and having the air gun to cool the weld immediately, it works well. I then resurfaced the abrasions, etch primed, primer, 3 coats of spray putty, sand, prime and 3 coats of color and 3 coats of clear. left it overnight, wet sanded and then cut and hand polish. Refitting the rear glass: This proved interesting I had bought a rear hatch glass rubber from some 'nice' person on Ebay who advertised it as a 2+2 rear screen rubber, only to find today that it was for a 2 seater! After numerous phone calls I finally found one at Rare Spares in Bayswater, The price was great $150 bucks and the rubber was a perfect fit with the channel in it to reinstall the chrome surrounds. I first ran some blue masking tape that doesn't have too much tack around the entire hatch to protect from any scratching (my first time fitting a rear screen) I fit the rubber first around the glass and then sat one corner into the hatch , I then brushed on a small amount of detergent around the hatch and began working the seal around, I actually did this with the rounded end of a pen! it was a perfect size to gently lever the rubber. Once in I then carefully refit the chrome surrounds. fit the whole thing back up, restriped the hatch and it looks better than it ever did. Hope this may help others have a go at doing their own work! Windscreen O'Brian quoted me $190 just to fit the glass!!!
  19. hey guys, I have been looking at some of the dash resto's on Hybridz and others and would like to have a go, only problem is ....my dash aint cracked! If anyone has a cracked dash that they would donate to the cause to see if I can get a professional finish, I would appreciate it. This way it may avoid the $600 reskin that most people have to pay. Rev.
  20. reverendzed

    Building a L28

    I have just done what you are wanting to do, Pm me if you want the details of what I did. What I did find was that power and performance with the 240 carbs compared to my triple Mikunis was like chalk and cheese. What I have learned is that you can do all sorts to the motor but without the correct carbs or injection most of its performance is made redundant and never used. Rev.
  21. Congrats Dale...I reckon it would be great if there was one or two shows a year where we got as many as possible to rock up as a meet and greet with each other....and represent the Zeds!
  22. Ben, it was great but it would have been better with you there, look at my other post for pics!
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