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Everything posted by 1600dave
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Rust Repair Sections And Suppliers.
1600dave replied to gav240z's topic in Business Directory + Links
http://musclecargt.com/index/indexpage/0 -
Rust Repair Sections And Suppliers.
1600dave replied to gav240z's topic in Business Directory + Links
They're just re-sellers of parts out of the same Taiwanese factory as the Muscle Car Parts stuff, and seem to be generally more expensive - eg Muscle Car Parts sells 1600 rear 1/4's for AU$650, they are selling the exact same bits for US$632 (I assume the prices are in US$ ?), 240Z bonnets from MCP are AU$1250, they have them for US$1100 -
As was my brother's 2 seater 260Z, until I painted it Toyota Red Mica.....
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Not sure if urban myth or not, but I read somewhere that Gerry Crown in the P76 had to get his navigator to drive some sections of a previous Peking to Paris as the Chinese govt deemed him too old to drive.
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1981 280ZX Automatic 2+2 Coupe with Targa - Running SOLD
1600dave replied to tdj's topic in Cars For Sale
Auto or manual ? Rust in both doors, or just the one pictured ? -
They will be 1 3/4" british HS6 SU's. Definitely genuine british SU's, and 4 bolt mounting means they aren't 1 1/2" HS4's (they only have two mounting holes set diagonally). You can mount the 1 3/4" SU's to the standard SSS manifold (if you're using that for your L20B) by only using two of the four holes in the HS6 carbs. Needs a lot of work with die grinder to open the ports up in the manifold though (see pic). Can also get a Lynx manifold that is made for the bigger carbs on a 4 cylinder L-series.
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- 260z
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SU Midel in Sydney sell a huge range of SU needles, about $10 each last time I got some. You won't get stock 240Z needles from SU Midel (or any SU carb shop) as 240Z carbs aren't "real" SU's - you would have to get genuine Nissan if they are still available. Otherwise, you'll have to work out what the needles in the zed "Hitachi copies of SU's" equate to in the "genuine british SU" needle range.
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For those arriving on Thursday night, you could volunteer as a flaggie for the Friday supersprint ! Get to be absolutely trackside for the day, watch some amazingly fast machinery scream past a meter or two from your flagpoint, and get free camping in the paddock behind the pits all weekend, pass to get your car through the tunnel and in and out of the campground all weekend, free t shirt, cap, jacket, food and, if they do it again this year, a free "volunteer appreciation lap" at speed around Mt Panorama in the passenger seat of one of the "V8Supercar experience" cars. No experience required ! It is a thoroughly enjoyable experience, well worth trying it at least once (unless it rains as heavy as it did in 2017.......).
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No worries, I finally obtained a CAMS Bronze Event Command qualification late last year (so I'm now qualified to act as Clerk of Course at race meetings up to State level) Part of getting the qualification was to either learn all this stuff or learn where it could be found. Was never easy to find stuff on CAMS website, they re-designed the whole website recently and made it even harder...........
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The only CAMS events you can run an unregistered and non-logbooked car are club and multi-club sprints. Challenge Bathurst, for instance, is state level so needs a logbook.
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Depends on the level of the event. Plenty do (state supersprints / Challenge Bathurst / etc). Basic club events, not so much.
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As far as varying requirements for different categories / levels, basically you pick a category and logbook the car to that. Its then up to event organisers to decide if your car meet the requirements for whatever type of event you enter. You're not limited to entering events for what its logbooked for. My 1600 is logbooked as Gp 3 PRC (ie a rally car) despite never being used on dirt, because that was the best "fit" when I got it inspected, according to the CAMS logbook inspector. In your case, pick a category that allows the seats you have and a perspex window, even if that ends up being sports sedans or something.
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Then yep, you should be right, subject to them passing scrutineering (ie not obviously damaged or worn).
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What standard is your harness ? FIA / SFI ?
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Devil's advocate here possibly, but wouldallowance for stuff like bigger brakes / wheels on a zed even be a good thing overall for the Group S category ? What do competitors want out of the category ? I ask as someone who intends to get involved if I ever find the time to build up my car. Yes, it will be better for the zed owner who''s car will be faster with better bits. It may even start beating the Porsches. Then the Porsches will do some more "research", get more freedoms, and it will be back to status quo of Porsches usually on top. Except now it will be even more expensive for everyone as cars are faster, wear and tear is greater - a vicious circle of chequebook racing where he with the biggest budget wins. Personally, my thoughts are that if you want to race a zed and win, you find a category in which it will win. You absolutely have to win in Group S, you buy the best car to do the job without remaining loyal to a marque / model. Don't get me wrong, I got into motorsport through my Datsun hobby, when / if I do get involved in Group S, it will be in my Datsun Sports. But I also accept the fact it isn't going to be a consistent front runner.
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Kobe Seiko Wheels (Works Rally Rims And More)
1600dave replied to stevofoxono's topic in Wheels and Tyres
Thanks for the replies guys, so apart from originality and ease of use in rally / race situations, an acceptable alternative would probably be to get some straight shanked nuts, turn up some tapered collars and just assemble them as you put them on the car (not have the collars retained by a pressed flange). I'm just looking for something to use on a set of Enkei mags I have that were used on a lot of the works 4 cylinder rally cars (Stanza / Violet). These also used the fancy rotating nuts. I'll also have a look at various Ford / Watanabe to see what may be of use. EDIT : So the "flange" / "lip" is just a small section at the end of the shank that is a slightly larger diameter, so the collar is an interference fit over it ? Nothing more complicated ? Just wondering if the nut was manufactured with a flange, then the collar was pressed over the flange, or whether the flanged was formed after the collar was installed on the nut ? Wouldn't be too hard to reproduce at home in small numbers either way... -
I assume this will be logbooked ? If so, RHS in a roll cage structure may present a few issues getting it signed off. First paragraph in the "materials specifications" part of Schedule J of the CAMS manual states "Only tubes with a circular profile are permitted", then moves onto the whole "only CDS / CDW" thing, of which RHS is neither. The regs mention using non-compliant material via the "process of safety cage structure certification." but I would imagine going through that process (ie not being able to simply self-certify the cage and needing to get engineers and the like involved) is going to be a much bigger headache and much more work than just replacing the RHS with round It is looking good though, ready for Bathurst this year ?
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Kobe Seiko Wheels (Works Rally Rims And More)
1600dave replied to stevofoxono's topic in Wheels and Tyres
Anyone know of a source for the rotating wheels nuts (genuine or repro) ? -
And that's a good philosophy to have. All too often people just jump straight to "biggest / strongest / bestest" without considering whether it is actually "best for purpose"
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Strong as possible, or strong enough ?
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The usual requirement for the Nissan Datsun nationals is membership of a CAMS affiliated club to take part in the track day (disclaimer - this is assuming the track day will run under a CAMS permit) , and no real requirement to be a member of any club to just come along for the other events (show'n'shine, etc). A little birdie told me the show'n'shine will be in a rather unique venue this year...........
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There is also a maximum lap time (3:22) , and quite a few in Group E are close to that. As one of the slower cars in Group E (3:15 ), I'm all too aware of the difference in lap times and speed (some cars have 80kph or more on me down the straight, the R34 skyline in 2017 must have been in excess of 100kph faster, imaging that blasting past you down conrod....). I like to think I do my best to keep out of the way, but as mentioned above this is often at the detriment of my performance in regularity. I accept this and keep out of the way in deference to safety, tempting as it is to stay on the racing line to win a regularity trophy, Bathurst just isn't the place for that. As mentioned above, I would suggest that Group E is probably the last group that the organisers would consider lowering the minimum time due to the difference in capability of cars and drivers. Possibly other groups which are "ranked" by speed would be more suitable (ie lower minimum for Group A, but also lower maximum to keep things in check). There is also supersprints for guys who want to go faster, but at, say, 2:30 lap time, they would end up being the mobile chicane for the pro's in the 12hr GT3 cars.
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Yeah, 1600 / 180B and probably 200B will fit and work, I run zed drums on my 1600. Unfortunately, they're cast iron and weigh a ton.
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What carbs are you running (earlier Datsun Hitachi SU's / flat top 260Z carbs / genuine British SU's) ? Is the needle appropriate spec ? To adjust mixture at only one point (eg at idle) you need to fit differently tapered needles. Winding the jet up or down will richen or lean it across the whole rev range. Rough idle at low revs could be as simple as the cam - what is "lumpy" ? You may no get a perfect idle if cam is too big. Is the float level correct ? Tacho going haywire at same time as engine stuttering sounds electrical to me.
