RBZ 260

im after a set of old school style 5" proper steel/chrome bezel but dont seem to find any. all new ones are these are black cheap gay plastic ones. even Hella and Lightining force are gone el cheapo with plastic housings. ebay has nothing, autobarn repco supercheap, 4wd accessory stores ive checked didnt have any. if anyone knows a store that has one or even second hand good condition ones let me know. edit: just found out that the ones they use on new minis will be good too but they are not factory option so where do they get them from?

;D We need Lurch. though sometimes he can be bit extra grumpy expecialy to new members. but i enjoy it. I'm probably one of the ones that take the short cut and mumble words everywhere. not that im not educated or whatever just slack and usualy when i do reply im in a big hurry. so spelling and grammer out the door they go. (even though we do have spell checker on forum, just takes too much time) occasionaly I recheck my posts and fix up the blunders. though i must agree that it was bit hard to read that post but i did figure it out and it turned out to be funny. very funny expecialy after the replies and attachments.

if all fails visit www.thezgarage.com contact member "Z kid". he makes them up as well. occassionaly puts them on ebay.

nice car. suprisingly i think that shade of gold does suit the car.

my 260z is a 76 2+2 model and it only had the electric cylindrical type fuel pump. same one as descibed in service manual. your original one must have died and its been replaced with that one. is the mechanical pump on the engine and is it connected. sometimes if mechanical packs up they replace it with electrical one. my 240z has mechanical pump which hoses have been disconnected and its running similar pump as per your pictures. except mine is the Facet brand with slightly different hose attachments. but very similar. if it runs dont worry about it too much.

thats a Hitachi symbol stamped. So its a Hitachi fuel pump for carby systems. i cant read the nmbers stamped on it but im sure if u google hitachi fuel pump and some of those numbers, you end up with more details. but it does look a lot like the Facet fuel pump.

man those stupid laws wont stop a thing it will just make things worse. since november last year till a week ago they impounded 1400+ cars in SA. 4 of them got sold for repeat offenders. (ive had a lot of stuff written in this space expressing they going the wrong way of reducing hooning but deleted it) safer if i just keep it to myself people were hooning the day the car got invented and before that they were hooning on horses so till they make something that replaces the car as daily transport i dont see it ever stoping just making it lot more unsafe for innocent people. just my ranting. LOL

i though someone just removed the manifolds and turbos nevertheless. if i ever go the RB26 path it will definetly be twin turbo or one huge hair drier to replace the twins. Im a turbo nutter. i love my turbo lag, turbo/jet whine you know the (whoooooosh),the resulting shove in the seat and neck/head in the boot. . on a very expensive note how nice would the new GTR engine sit in aS30? all 485hp of it. hmmm got to keep an eye on damaged car auctions

keep looking on ebay they do pop up new ,now and than,but be prepared to pay..

man im on fire LOL L28 complete with stock manifolds, SU's, and A/C compressor + 5 spd 523lbs from this link at our friends at hybridZ http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=97320 copy pasted some info incase link fails in the future CA18DET with trans 389lb SR20DET Complete + Five Speed 490lbs (source Sport Compact Car) Datsun L6 Alone + Four Speed toyota 1UZ-FE + R154 mission 486lbs + W58 mission 466lbs RB25DET Alone + Five Speed 700 lb complete RB26DETT Alone + Six Speed L28 complete with stock manifolds, SU's, and A/C compressor + 5 spd 523lbs 7MGTE complete with turbo and A/C compressor 515 lb w/ R154(125lbs alone) 640lb 2JZ-GTE Alone 594 lbs + Getrag Six Speed 746lbs VH45 508 lbs LS1 Alone + T56 Six Speed Chevy L98 Alone 540 lbs with iron heads, 510 lbs with aluminum heads + 4+3 OD Chevy LS1 459(automatic) 503(manual) LT1/LT4 562 (automatic) 620 (manual) LT1/LT4 Alone 562 (automatic) 620 (manual) ZF Six Speed Chevy SB (All Iron) Alone 575 lbs + T56 Six Speed Chevy SB (iron + Aluminum) 500 lbs + T56 Six Speed Ford SB (All Iron) Alone 550 lbs ? + T56 Six Speed Ford SB (iron + Aluminum) Alone 470 lbs? + T56 Six Speed Chevy BB (All Iron) 685 lbs + T56 Six Speed Chevy BB (iron + Aluminum) Alone 590 lbs + T56 Six Speed Viper 8.0 L alone 716 lbs + T56 Six Speed Viper 8.2 L alone 716 lbs? + T56 Six Speed toyota 1UZ-FE + R154 mission 486lbs + W58 mission 466lbs

man RB26Dett is one damn sexy motor. get rid of it NZeder getting bad ideas and making bad decisions.

Found this: http://www.funco-motorsports.com/motor_weights.htm if link fails here are details MOTOR WEIGHT COMPARISONS Subaru 2.5L N/A 285lbs. The motor mounts are 4 lbs Subaru 2.5L intercooled turbo 320lbs. The motor mounts are 4lbs. Northstar V8 n/a 510lbs. The motor mounts = 12 lbs Northstar V8 twin turbo 565lbs. The motor mounts = 12 lbs LS1 V8 n/a 480lbs. The motor mounts = 12 lbs LS1 V8 twin turbo 520lbs. The motor mounts = 12 lbs Honda 3.5L intercooled turbo 465lbs. Honda 3.5L n/a 430lbs. Mazda rotary 2 rotor, 285lbs Mazda rotary 3 rotor, 480lbs VW Stroker 2.3L N/A 260lbs. No radiator VW Turbo 2.2L 285lbs. No radiator, no intercooler (Rarely does anyone use a VW motor on a new sandcar anymore, we only include this for comparison) Radiator and cooling plumbing adds about 75 lbs for water cooled cars. i did find the site that Lurch mentioned about LS1 same weight as LS1. i had troubles believing it. so i searched bit more and found the yank site above.the figures above speak for them selves. true 13B has bit of plumbing but is so small. i got one and i still cant get over the size of the motor. its tiny. the 5spd gbox behind it is bigger and prob heavier.

i got a 13bT out of S5 RX7 with gearbox. i can tell you it weighs heaps less than the RB20 without the turbo on it and no box using a manual winch. once i get to the 13bT for a rebuild ill put it on scale before dismantling it. rotaries have nice rev range but lack a bit in tourque at least feel wise. but S30 weighs lot less than RX4 and its pretty close to RX3. ive seen a pic of S30 with a 20b engine one of jap sites.so its been done.prob easy. As Zedevan said ill go SR20DET. heaps of tourque out of the little 4cyl. thats the most probable path ill go with my 240z unless i can grab a decent priced (CHEEEAP) RB26DETT.

;D love to hear about senior people driving nuts. there a guy here hes old but he likes to drive fairly fast. wont mention names LOL.... but i love seeing him give his car the beans.

that is funny sorry. love to see the face of the coper when a 78 yo got out. hmm wonder what the punishemnt will be? looks like vic is holding the record for oldest hoon drivers : what sort of pulsar was that? GTiR or a hyped up one? pic videos etc... damn news never give the good details

twisted F%#%$. hope he gets few years behind bars. lucky u are calm and collective i would have been the one in jail insted of him afterwards. few years back a had a v8 commonwhore driver slam the brakes right infront of me for no reason at all. luckily i swerved and missed him.but things got bit out of hand later but not as bad as your case. if insurance job my moto is go to the most expensive workshop. look at the cars they repair u shouldnt see anything less than 50K value than u shouldnt have any trouble getting the car fixed properly. may take some time though. Z is just a car like any other. (running for cover) IF it gets mangled it gets fixed like any other car.

Shannons quoted for full comp $650 for limited usage (3-4times a week) value of 16k (260z 2+2) without looking at the car and me telling them its still incomplete with the cheaper wheels. The guy was very helpfull and said to let them know when its all done for revaluation. though $650 seems bit high on the premiums but prob because its a higher risk car with quite a few mods. other insurance wouldnt even talk. some too old and only give you 3rd party others too modified. so yeah had to stick with shannons.

all my current cars run on BP ultimate 98. but when we had my fiancees N15 pulsar we were experementing with different fuels. best outcome was the ethanol blend 95 octane stuff besides the 98 ultimate. was 6c cheaper it felt like it had same power as 98 (minus the cost) though km traveled were slightly reduced. we had the car for 2 years and no trouble at all.

Mike I think you became a Z FREAK when u got the "Z" Tattoo on you. you should post that up here as well. don't think anyone can say that you aren't a Z Freak. congrats on the car u did a wise decision. LOL just hope your old man don't see this. soooooo. when are we going for a cruise around our beautiful coastal area?

I built my Z with intensions of being daily car and also bit of a weekend warrior. though mine is a 260z 2+2 with few mod cons like power steering. been driving it for almost 2 years now. if u dont mind the rattles and fumes its great daily car (BTW those rattles and fumes can get fixed) though since u seem to be in mod scene with your previous rides droping an RB turbo engine is fairly easy. i got the smaller of the RBs the RB20DET. though still has over 200KW with mods and avarage driving it will return with around 10l per 100km. if u push bit more on regular basis it it will go up to 12-14l per 100km. but when boy racers want to take you on off the lights with their current craze fast cars are in for a suprise. not saying that L powered Z are slow they can be very quick with few mods , but prob will chew bit of fuel. like people mentioned above what to look for when buying one. RUST. search the forums or check the link above that Hunter pointed out. good luck with the purchase. PS if u drive one u better have the money ready cause u will want it right there and then.

man those welds are so impresive .. now im gone to the shed for more practice in welding crazy car cant wait till its done i also vouch for the GTR colour.

do what the guys said at the top. get a multimeter. 10A range set the probes in the correct slots. dont try to turn the engine ovre or the fuse in the multimeter will blow. no need to start it anyway.its the off possition current u interested in. unplug the battery terminal and place the multimeter between the battery and the power cable or body ground doesnt make any diff which one you do. read what it shows on the meter. 400mA is way exessive and will flat you battery in no time. should be around 50ma or less. if using more than that start pulling fuses and or disabling things. ie central locking and alarm, radio etc.. the currrent should drop when u get the coulprit. you could try this on another car that doesnt chew battery and as a refrence check how much current does it draw when all off. closer to 0 is best. alarms shouldnt chew more than 25mA some better ones do even less when armed with all sensors are monitoring. the flashing led may run at 10mA but it runs for a very short time. So if u see the numbers jumping when its armed it shouldn't jump more than this.

nice. what did that set you back if u dont mind asking? good luck with finishing it off doesnt look it needs much.

LOL