PZG302

Without getting into a pissing competition, for mine a Z432 is worth in Australia what someone is prepared to pay for it. At this stage for one with proven pre'70 race history it looks like that value is up to $150k AUS, so it looks like not enough for someone in Japan to part with theirs. The reason for Jason to want the 1969 race history is to fall into a better class of historic racing out here where he doesn't have to go up against dubious machines of germanic origin, just big hunks of yankee iron.....and some of britain's finest. Having said that, a Z432 should go alright in Sc provided you can use the nice big 4 spot brakes and some big rotors. It's just the S20 that could be problematic to keep fettled, especially with the way someone downshifts......

Or I have a bare N42 injected head sitting on a shelf under a work bench.......

Nah, needs phully sic and hektic SR20....... Nice buy, I do like the 1200 coupes and one built for IPRA with SR20 powah would be a very fun thing.

James, Been there done that in my two Zeds i have raced. Cheap solution was to run with at least a half full tank in the 260, and at least a third in the 240 until I was looking at doing one hour races and needed to be able to use pretty much all 60 litres. Then i went to the 2 litre swirl pot under the floor. The 240 tank was modified with a "pot" welded into the tank, but I still got surge at anything under 1/3 tank. The weight doesn't make that much difference when you are carrying an extra 15 litres. The best place to mount a surge tank is under the floor next to the spare wheel well. It is well protected and out of the way of everything. You are better off getting one made to suit rather than buying an ebay special as they are generally designed to be bolted to a floor and not hung from the floor. Also keeps all your fuel out of the cabin, so a bit safer too. Matt

IIRC Win drove "Big Sam" for a season or two back in the day, as well as a few years driving Toyotas before and during his time with Tom Walkinshaw

Tai, the cast mark should be on the top of the manifold, looks like it has been ground off. But looking at the manifolds, the naps one will be the better one. Measure up the two butterflies in each manifold to work out the area of both and use the one with the largest opening. The longer runners on the naps manifold will help with torque. My manifold had a single butterfly only, the twin butterflies work as a "staged" system for airflow, similar to primaries and secondaries on a carby (my simple explanation) and work well for around town. The single butterfly works better for track, and of course the bigger the better. As said before, a good trick is to use a XF throttle body, relatively simple mod to get a bigger throttle body if you can now find an XF falcon. It would also be worth getting the runners opened up a bit and flowed to get a bit more air in and to even the airflow through each runner. I found that number 2 runner can flow a bit less air than the others, just part of the ordinary design. My manifold had N47 (I think) cast into the top and the log didn't have as big a change or narrowing in the shape as your non naps manifold does. The runners on mine were also about 3/4" longer than a standard L28 manifold which did cause me a few dramas with getting full throttle using the rods, about three hours of fiddling to get it sorted.

Tai, what is the cast mark on your old manifold??? Depending on what it is and the size of the throttle body, you could be better off with that manifold than the naps manifold. When my motor was put together I used a turbo manifold, N47, from memory was the cast mark, and it had a throttle size of 64mm, a lot better than the twin set up of the naps manifold, which from memory was only about 80% of the area of the single butterfly, which is better than the standard L28/L24E manifolds. Another trick is to use an XF falcon throttle body, size 65mm, or a BMW one, type escapes me at the moment. Zedevan on here has my old motor, so maybe worthwhile PMingf him to get the cast number of the inlet manifold.

Peter, is there any advantage/disadvantage to using both the spray bar and the internal oiling of the cam?

If cars were maintained properly then there is no reason why they can't meet any roadworthy standards. In NSW you have yearly inspections and if a car is maintained it will sail throw no problems, I have had mainly old cars, until 5 years ago the youngest car I owned was 15 years old, and all in NSW where they were maintained and in good condition, even my $300 shitters were well kept, and sent to the wreckers when they wouldn't pass. I purposely went to a strict workshop to make sure my cars were up to scratch. The bigger issue is the standard of driver training in this country which is crap. A licence should be seen as a privilege not a right as it is in Australia. The driving test to get your licence is a joke, just having to know how to do a 3 point point turn, revers park and then not run into anyone in a 10 minute drive around the block. The new system for logging hours by learners is not much of an improvement as it reinforces bad habits that are passed on from parents and friends who are realistically the only ones doing any real training, who have no skills or meet any standards for their ability or knowledge of what they are doing. In general, all drivers in Australia are crap and that includes the vast majority of us. I'm still learning how to drive with nearly 30 years experience of on road and off road driving and I have average over 50,000km a year on the road for last 10 years. Unless you are a proffessional racing driver or driving instructor, you to are more than likely a crap driver. Sure most people can operate a car and manage to get from point a to point b in one piece but most have no idea of how to acutally drive a car safely with regard for other road users and the conditions encountered along the way.

Sounds like your mind is already made up, or vey close to it.... Me, I would repair it and then get it to what you want your car to be. Easy for me to say with no emotional involvement in the car. I know I was a sad panda when my 240 got written off last year, even the better half was sympathetic to me about the car. In some ways I do regret parting it out, but as it was a race car I got a very good run out of it, and I was planning on updating it anyway, my hand was forced about 12 months early, but the original plan was to try to keep it to use for hill climbs and the odd track day just to give it a thrash and have the silvia as my main race car. At least I have a few trophys and some great memories and stories of some awesome racing and brilliant trips away with some great friends for interstate races. Matt

Depends on the rules you run to, for CAMS 2B Marque/Prod Sports it certainly is, for 2A sports cars I would have check the rules, if you are running trck days for no points scores, who gives a rat's??

Local government has plenty of power in this case, they own and are responsible for over 80% of the country's roads data value of over $7billion. Councils have to pay for maintenance from their rates base, as well as meet the interests of their customers (residents/rate payers) and not a couple of hundred car enthusiasts. There are plenty of public liability issues due to any damages to roads, sealed and unsealed, as well as recovering costs for repairs from the event. A field of rally cars can destroy a road very quickly and the damage may not be noticed for many months or even years if the sub base is damaged.

I have both left and right hand doors in good condition of a 70 model 240 if you ate interested, however I am in Brisbane

The only way to know for sure which particular model would suit is to geta copy of the rules and go through them with a fine tooth comb wearing your Frank gardner Terry Towelling hat. In terms of chassis stiffness between the older and newer chassis, seam welding and some discreet bracing that complies with the rules sorts that out. Just make sure you read them properly so you don't get caught out building a tower to tower through the firewall cage and then when you turn up at scrutineering be told that the cage doesn't comply to the eligibility rules for the class. Depending on whatthe eligibility criteria are for the targa categories a 280ZXT may not even be eligible to run due to not being sold here, or may have to be built from a US shell and be LHD.

Great build and beautiful car, but I can see Lurch's point of view. My track cars have always only ever had 10 foot paint jobs, but as you are mainly sprints and regularity the paint will last a lot better than a door handle to door handle track pig for racing. Just be prepared to be gutted when you christen it, they aren't real race cars until they get biffed. As I said above a beautiful car and great build, everyone needs to spend way too much on a car at least once. My chugger is a 12 year cheque book resto that is getting towards 6 figures for an XL, so much respect for your build and then driving it properly.

In my opinion no, if you are going to run a harness you are better off to use a harness with seat designed for it, preferably a FIA rated 3" wide 6 point harness and FIA rated seat, that are both very hard to find complies with ADR's also. You won't be able to stop the shoulder straps from potentially sliding down the seat in an impact no matter what you do, plus the seats are not designed for that type of restraint. Also with the rear bar being fabricated make sure it sits at the correct height so the shoulder straps are at the correct angle, from memory between 5 deg above horiz, to about a max of 30 deg below horizontal. I don't have any photos handy, but the bar in my cage for the harness was above the level of the top of the struts. This is one area where if you get it wrong it can have serious consequences for you.

And i could be in a position to get some work done on the Ghetto Racer 200..... to help make it worth your while, and i only supply good beer ;D

Media tart!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I have found it very inconsistent as it still a very manual system, ie a car triggers the timer and the number is manually entered against it, very difficult to get right when cars are close together. However it can work to your advantage, my standard MX did a sub 40 sec lap once at Lakeside

Plenty of easy to get go fast bits for these if you know the right bits to use, plus if you are game they will go out to just under 5 litres, just ask some Formula 5000 competitirs and Can Am sports car owners.......

It'll buff out..... Someone had to say it

James, will be going through the same thing in about six months or so for the new car. As stated, get a CAMS spec cage, can then run at anything, also be aware that the rules changed for this year, so download the relevant section from the CAMS manual, available on line at www.cams.com.au. There are a few workshops in Brisbane and the Gold coast that can supply. As for cost expect to pay anything up to and around 3.5k depending on what you want. I will be going for something that looks like an explosion from BHP's rod division. i would be looking at a full 6 point cage with "crossed" intrusion bars, taxi bar for harness(es), "lada" and "sains" bars plus a knee breaker. Also look at getting the shell seam welded at the same time. Also, don't get a cage with legs through the firewall, if you want to play in prod Sports, this is illegal. There are some things you can do to overcome this, seam welding the front and a strut brace is one way. If you can have a look at my old shell at Patch's, the front is seam welded in all the right places and done right, ie 25mm long welds with a 25mm break, makes it easier to pull apart if required and won't twist the shell with too much heat from a continuous weld. I know Jason is keen to get some work done so if you can work with Jason in getting Lurch up he could do the cage and sign off on it for CAMS compliance. Again a look at my cage will give a good idea of what works well on the rear, and I can run you through on what i would do differently at the front to bring it up to what i would like my cage to have been. It was built to different rules again so the front was a compromise. As stated in earlier posts have the interior stripped for the fabricater, talk to them to see how far, but i would leave the steering column in and everything else out when the cage is put in. Matt

Thanks to Dave, Aubrey and the QZCC for a great night, and thanks to Shannons for supplying the venue and also sorting me out with insurance for the new toy, laid up cover for theshell and bits was exceptionally cheap and they also gave me a nice couple of extra discounts on the other toys as well. When the racer is finished and i can get it passed the financial controller I will be looking for another Z to replace the green monster, as a road toy only this time.

I could mention I have a couple of L28's for sale up here in Brizvegas, but that would be cruel...... Enjoy your Easter break knowing Pete will sort out your motor for you

Dave, I'll be there in the hairdresser's car, or as I prefer to call it "the japanese Lotus Elan"