PZG302

The car hasn't done a lot of work, so the shell should still be good. If anyone is keen I can get a run down from the guy that did a lot of work on it for Carlos. He said it was a more fun to drive than my car on the road. As for track class for door to door racing it would be a 2B car on slicks or 2F car on radials. As a 2B car it would be fun but run towards the back of the field in box and NSW. Up here in Qld it would be a top 5 car. 2F would see it run at the front of the field with a good driver. Would need a bit of work to convert it from dirt spec to track, mainly a diet and change the suspension. If it is logged, cage would be fine. In any case, Jason's digger would be better value for money if you wanted a door to door racer as no work is needed to be at the pointy end of gentleman racing in Sc. Carlos' car would need a fair bit of development to be a serious track weapon. As a dirt or tarmac rally car the zx would be a very cheap weapon in the right hands. In comparison to Brian ferribee's frankenstein MX at Lakeside a good driver would worry him in 2B spec on new tyres. On old.slicks I.could.do 62's, new slicks down to 61's. This is generally the race pace. Qualifying would see it up to 4 seconds of the pace depending on which Corvette is running and q couple of seconds off Brian.

If.the Orange 280 is the one i'm thinking of at 18k it is a bargain. I know who built it and what bits are in it and that is a real bargain if.someone wants to go.racing/rallying/targa.

All very good, but more importantly do you have the original sales.receipt when the dealer fitted them???

Disappointing that a Shannons assessor has that attitude. I have never had any dramas with Shannons for any of my cars. We must be lucky up here in brisvegas with the staff they have.

If the other party is at fault get quotes to repair and deal with the other party or their insurance direct. A good panel shop should be able to help. I had similar situation with my ute and found out to late the best way to get the repair done the way I wanted. Hope this is of some help.

Mmm, tis tempting, but I can't live in a zed and store the spares.....

The rev limit you can take your motor to will generally be based on how much mechanical sympathy you have. If your tacho is working, the motor should rev to the the redline quite easily and safely. In my experience, if the tacho is not accurate it generally reads high, ie the tacho will show a higher value than what the engine is actually spinning at. You should also know when the motor is running out of puff. If you have a standard motor I wouldn't be revving it much over 6500 anyway as you will already be past peak power. You should be able to feel this in the car. In my earlier race motors I used to rev it until I either got points bounce, or as the valve train reached its rev limit the tone of the motor would change to what could be described as a banshee wail, then I knew it was time to upchange, generally only did this to eek the last drop of performance out of the car chasing someone on the track. If you listen to the car as you drive you will know how far to take the motor.

Even if you drive down with spares and tools, shipping the car down with a full truck is still easier. The drive without the trailer is nicer, and you can add a couple of days going back or heading down as a holiday to keep the better half on side. When I had just moved to Brisvegas and raced at Lakeside to support the supertourers in 2000, the car was till in Sydney. We shipped it up on the truck with the others coming north and the guys drove up in the service ute with the spares. It made for a much nicer journey than towing and even with the cost of shipping included I was still in front than if I paid for fuel towing the car up.

Big Girly Blouse!!!!!!!! I'm sure you'll find time to do both Lurch and scare a few people with your standard 240 I won't have a car ready by then, or maybe will, depending on what happens in the next couple of days I maybe a gentleman of leisure for a couple of months...... And for the general discussion, I'm sure the event will be brilliant, even if not everyone will be happy due to too many or not enough bits of plastic.....

Simon, as Jason said stick with the penrite SIN. I used it in mine and never had an issue. The only time I did have a problem with fluid was at Morgan Park and we boiled the fluid, cheap Dot 4 with Hawk Blues. Changed fluid and pads and brakes were then really good, even Jason was impressed with the stopping ability of the Hawk pads. What pads and rotors are you using all round, as that can have a big effect as well.

James, Depends on what you are doing with the car. As stataed below, just a 4 dot fluid. The cheap, $7 a bottle, supercheap fluid is fine. If you are doing track work then spend a bit more and get the Penrite SIN brake fluid. It has a higher boiling point and again is relatively cheap. There is no need to spend a forune on big brand fluids or specialist race fluids. The only other trhing I would be doing is regular fluid changes, about every 12 months will do you for a road car. For track use, just a bleed of the brakes before each event.

As Shane said, the r180 will be fine. If you break it you either have way too much horsepower or are abusing it badly. The old 240 only ever used CIG R180's and coped with 200rwhp, 212 ft/lb of torque and standing starts with sidestepping the clutch at 3500rpm. I don't understand why everyone wants to go to R200 in what most would consider mild applications, I can understand those with V8's going to the R200, but with an L series why bother???

Paul, just leave it for a while and your Z will naturally have this patina. Mine did after one race meeting, with stone chips, rubber and a couple of scuffs, including losing the front bar. The you have all these genuine stories to tell about each battle scar, not "well I paid the painter to make it look like that......"

The F54/N42 engine is gone, thanks Larry for the quick and easy pickup. I have now just the one N42/N42 long engine for sale, suitable for rebuild only as per the earlier posts. Also have a bare n42 head that would be good to use as a base for a big build, has cam towers and a bumpy stick of some description, wouldn't have a clue to specs as i wasn't going to use it. Also have most of the other bits to go with it, but would recommend doing the job properly and getting new valves, springs, lash pads etc. And finally, I also have a set of 133mm rods for either the big stroker, or with an L28 crank and custom pistons to give you some more oomph and a few more revs.

Oops, sorry twas the other one David, who still did have stellar sports car career after F1 including a le mans win or tw

What about Geoff Brabham??? Great driver just a pity he didn't have the budget to run in a better team than Simtek, and once Roalnd was killed that was the beggining of the end for the Simtek team. He certainly showed his talent in sports cars after his stint in F1

That's because you forgotr to mention to also........ Get yourself a suit and tie Get your hair cut way up high Get yourself a lawyer son Better get a real good one Sorry couldn't help myself.... Nothing to see hear move along

Whilst I would like to sign on to the VHRR forum and say my 2 cents worth about pulling group T cars back to Group S specs and not destroying the car (WTF is that guy on!!!?!?!?!?!?) and how that Group S being the most popular category, those competitors should have preference over pukkah historic cars, the administrator of the forum has pulled the pin on registrations.

The current class structure has been around for as long as I can remember. When I first started doing supersprints in my type 2 0-1600cc almost class winning Stanza SSS, it wasn't too bad, the cars of the time were pretty cheap and not a lot of technology involved. At least I wasn't running against someone in an orange 2.4 litre datsun, just when he had the occasional outing in some rusty Fiat 124. The class system probably now needs an overhaul to take into account 4WD and what is becoming the shit fight with what is R type tyre. Glad I race in a fairly open category where the rules can be stretched and the my weapon of choice is cheap and relatively plentiful, like the Z was 15-20 years ago.

Hmmm, where's my can opener........

I've got 2 L series starters up here in Brisvegas you can have, not sure on condition as I haven't used them for a long time. Come and take them away for the price of a trip up north.....

have you tried the old screwdriver across the starter terminals trick with the ignition on? If the car starts then you know it's the ignition switch, if it doesn't then all likelyhood it is the starter. I have had starters die on me suddenly, and I have had them die a long slow and painful death, sometimes to be lazarus like resucitated to last another day to then die again when you least need the hassle.

Before you start the build and deciding on the engine to run, if you are going to build to IP rules download this and have a good a read, http://www.camsmanual.com.au/pdf/02_race/d.%203rd%20Category/RA29_Group_3J_2012-3.pdf These are the 3J Improved production rules. My advice would be to build to under 2 litre specs, preferably using an N/A SR20 (cheap and easy to go fast bits for). The car is nice and light, the power from the SR will be enough to give you a very quick car. The secret to making a bloody quick car will be in the suspension and shell preparation, if done smart this is relatively cheap, though time consuming, perfromance gains. Brakes will be plenty big enough even with the wheel size limitations for your car, and the yoki control tyres can be gotten 2nd hand fromother competitors pretty easily and cheaply for when you start out. Hope this helps in the decision making.

In the hairdressers car at QR for shits and giggles with the MX5 club on Monday 21st May. Got down to a 1:12.8 on the clubman circuit in a stock 1600 NA6 with standard 210k old suspension and very worn RE001 street tyres. Reults are up on Natsoft for confirmation. Also did a little unofficial training, scaring the bejeesus out of teh club magazine editor showing him the lines to take, and also getting another driver to drop 1.2 seconds from his previous best by following my lines when he was chasing 0.4 second drop to stay in the lead of his class in the club championship. All in all agood day was had.

For us on the west island, you can get the FIA homologation docs from CAMS, now at a cost of around $80 IIRC. The only problem is that they have generally been used for the rally boys previously, so unfortunately have some good bits covered up with "not vaild for PRC" written across them. I don't know if CAMS has a clean copy available without the Group 4 and 5 parts covered up. For building a car to CAMS category 2B they are the definitive parts book as they list all the bits that are eligible for use in FIA racing. Some highlights include, 10" wide rear wheels, 8" wide fronts. 4 spot front brakes and rear disk brakes. An L28 injected motor can be fitted to a 240 shell as the documents state that the injected motor was available as an option from body number S30 00000001 or whatever the first car would be. The only downside is that the L28 was homologated with EFI only so a careful perusal of appropriate rules would be in order before racing a triple carbied L28 for sheep stations. Also includes various panels made from FRP and I think plexiglass windows. IIRC the only aero in the papers is the ZG nose, flares and rear bob tail, in my opinion erroneusly called the BRE spoiler because BRE used the nissan rear spoiler without the ZG front on their cars to comply with SCCA rules. And finally, from what I can remember a homologated weight of about 930kg for a 240, 260, 280. I have a copy of the papers, as this is the first thing I get when building a car to make sure I can make the best use of the rules for the category I am looking at racing in. On another tangent, through using homologation documents I have raced what is to be believed to be the only factory fuel injected 180B SSS in Australia. Racing it in 3J street sedans in NSW in the late 80's early 90's.