sexual_sushi

Ahhh just remembered I have a birthday dinner next Wednesday night. How about the following week?

i just got some r31 brackets off ebay. Not too sure about them, i didn't research it was just an impulse buy. $46 not too bad though. They do look different to the brackets that most people use though :S

i think edii just posted that they are available from nissan http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,4114.msg39799/topicseen.html#new edit: oh just saw the genuine SH thing.....

Dougybe: welcome, sounds good. You were looking to get a gearbox rebuilt weren't you? I was meaning to post a place in (or near) new market. I'll have to find the name, they had a full page ad in the yellow pages. I didn't actually get any work done there but we called them up to get some work done and they were very helpful over the phone and we ended up doing it ourselves. I have synchros I ordered from black dragon in America for one of my boxes but they were the wrong type. I doubt they will fit yours but its worth a try. I would want to sell them, but we can try them first to see if they fit.

haha i was also looking at getting this car, but with transport to qld it wasn't really worth it, i should just finish the car in the shed instead

I really like the idea, poor cars though They should do it with excels or something but it wouldn't look as good

waxhead: haha sushi is fine. thanks, next time i'm heading to the coast ill give you a call. What are you doing to the engine? Modular9: sounds good, just today we have narrowed down a date for go karting, looks like it will be on the weekend of the 30th and 31st http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,4205.msg39715/topicseen.html#new . Waxhead you should come too

just to see the finish and see if it's worth it maybe we could get some people to chuck in some money to get a test done? I'll happily chuck in $10 or $15

Downloads my friend I've seen them all

Haha there's a $1000 stripper budget so things might interesting But I'll probably be in no state to hold a camera

another pm sent

30th or 31st would be good for me cause I was heading to the sunshine coast that weekend anyway, that is if we go to the track up there. Preferably the Saturday i think. Ahh that sucks about the speed fine, where abouts was it? I haven't gotten anything, yet :S

Monday nights probably not good for me, I'll be getting back from Cairns early Monday morning form a bucks party so I imagine I'll be quite ruined. Maybe the Wednesday?

congrats on the purchase. Are you in the sunny coast or brisbane area? I'd like to have a look at it at some point. I'm debating whether or not I want to shave the rear bumper like this car. If I saw it in person I would know Anyway if you are in the area, a few of us are meeting sporadically. There was some talk today of another meet soon (running z not required), subscribe to this thread if you are interested http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,3261.135.html good luck with the car

sounds good, my weekends are out for the next 3 weeks (cairns, sunshine coast, gladstone) but week nights should be fine for me. Any ideas for a meeting place? Somewhere we could park that is well lit could be nice

If you end up doign that members thread, I don't mind offering a mirror from my site, I could post the link in the forums. I'll have to see how usage goes though.... I appreciate the effort with the manual but the factory service manuals are available elsewhere online and I'm sure it takes you a while to scan every page (I know we scanned and printed out a whole manual and laminated it so the pages don't get greasy). Can't remember the years exactly but i think there's a 73, 76 and 77 manual available to download. I believe they were taken from the zcarcreations cd version of the manuals so it's probably a breach of copyright but wouldn't they have breached copyright in the first place to make the cd's? Not sure how it all works. If someone can convince me that it's not illegal I can host them at my site or someone else can download and host them http://carfiche.com/manuals023/cars/ I don't want to discourage you, I think it's a great idea, I just don't want you to waste your own time if it is already available. Oh ps if you make a pdf from photoshop, you can set the compression of the pages in the save dialogue box. Even going from 'maximum compression' to 'high compression' makes a huge difference in file size.

Looks great, definitely worth the hassle. What are you planning to do with the rest of the interior?

ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh SPA master, I always read it as spam master. That makes a lot more sense, I just thought you liked sending people emails about penis pills and Nigerian bank accounts

oh and if you've done all this work to the engine you may want to look at the brakes as well....

Good posts guys, nzeder I'm working on a new site as well with a blogging function, i know what you mean about it guys/panel beaters haha Devilz good to hear some positive feedback for the stroker Mtop, there are a few different combination of parts you can use. For mine I'm going with... 3.1 litre LD28 crank (from diesel maxima) Connecting rods from a 73 l24. From a certain point in 73 the rods came with a 9mm bolt as opposed to the 8mm bolt in the earlier engines and they are a little lighter. This is the ideal rod. With an n42 head, you can use KA24e 89mm pistons (from a 200sx). With a 1mm head gasket you get a compression ratio of about 10.6:1 and mill the tops of the piston to get 10:1 or you can use a 2 mm headgasket to get about 12:1. However I have a spec sheet to get custom forged je pistons and I'll be using these in my build. Then you'll want a new cam, I'm not sure what grind you would like/need. You'll probably want to get some sort of extractors, I've got a Holley Red fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator (from memory about 3-4psi is ideal? also note that a lot of people find Holley fuel pumps to be noisy. I'm mounting mine on a huge rubber block to try and minimise the noise), lightened flywheel (to prevent crank failure again) and probably make sure you have a decent radiator. A 4 core would be good. And look at a decent harmonic balancer (there was a thread on here recently about different brand balancers i think) Then there are all of the other small expenses, head bolts etc. If you haven't already, pick up a copy of that book how to modify your nissan/datsun engine or something (also get the how to restore book while your there). It has good info on how to prep the block etc.

Thanks nzeder, i think i transferred an extra $50 aus to your mate here for your hassle when you were boxing the parts up? Hopefully I didn't just dream that :S I'll check my statements. If it was more than that let me know, I don't want you to be out of pocket and like I said you and spammaster have saved me a lot of money thats bad news about the cranks though, i was considering getting more out

I'm actually using an n42 for my build I remember reading about the high nickel content blocks. How do you tell the difference? Is there an easy way? I suppose I'll look up that thread in hybrid. Quick thread hijack, nzeder did you see my thread I posted? My crank and rods were delivered yesterday Thanks so much for all your help. Basically mtop, the misconception is that people think the stroker crank = horsepower when really the stroker crank just changes the characteristics of the engine (more torque, especially on the bottom end). The rest of the work you do to a stroker engine is what you would do to a non stroked engine to get more hp anyway, it's just that in the case of a stroker it needs to be done to prevent failure. Now I'm sure you have it drilled into your head what a stroker is. Over the next week I'll pm you the details on what you need to actually do it (well as much as I know). I wouldn't mind collating all of the info I have into a simple (well as simple as it can be) document for viczcar. Maybe Nzeder could help out with all of his experience???

So after years of patiently waiting I finally have my stroker crankshaft and rods! I got them both for about $400 total, delivered from NZ to Aus (at least half if not more than it should have cost me). The cranks alone usually go for $500us these days. Extremely big thanks to NZeder and Zrevival for organising things on the new zealand end and selling the parts in the first place and even bigger thanks to spammaster who got it shipped over in a container with some of his spa's for absolutely nothing! Really can't thank you all enough

heya mtop, I would say the australian equivalent would be getting an engine built from Stewart Wilkins Motorsport http://www.swmotorsport.com/index.html?lmd=39067.093299. These guys have been working on L series engines for a long time and know what they are doing (imho, not that I have personally had any work done there). I'm considering getting my stroker engine built there but I'm not sure yet. You could find a really good builder locally but it's just trying to find someone who has been proven to be good and who has a history with the L series like Stewart Wilkins can be quite hard. Some of the guys in the QLD zcar club could probably help out with some recommendations. Check out this link for good info on heads/block combinations and interchangeable/ideal parts between the L series to get the most out of your engine cheaply... http://datsunzgarage.com/engine/ You can work the l series engine fairly easily and get a pretty decent amount of fun out of it. You can start with porting and polishing, getting a slightly more agressive cam and balancing all of the rotating parts so the engine can spin (rev) more easily. Definitely get the round top su's and then look at things like electronic ignition from a 280zx. And then it's all about tuning the carbies, this is really make or break. Boring the block out will give you the different litre engines (displacement). The '3.1litre' engines are usually engines bored to 89mm using a diesel maxima crank (stroker crank) that increases the stroke length from around 79mm on a standard l28 to about 83mm (using l24 rods). This gives you about 3.098 litres which people just round up to a '3.1litre'. You end up with a lot of bottem end torque and a fairly flat torque curve. You can go for a 90mm bore which gives you 3.168 litres but the problem is that you are making the walls on the block very thin and nearing water passages and decreasing the rigity of the block causing it to flex more. If you are going to be boring and engine out even to 89mm you should have the block sonically tested for thickness to make sure you don't run into any troubles (usually the f54 block is ideal). Usually you would improve the carbies at this point to get more air and fuel into your bigger engine. Obvious choices are tripple webbers, dellortos, mikuni and solex carbs. The most important part of building a 'proper' stroker engine is balancing everything that you can as the rotating mass is going to be under more stress and you might end up breaking a crank etc. When you add up the cost of sourcing the crank and rods, balancing everything, triple carbs and general machine work plus all the little bits and pieces your are looking at an absolute minimum of $5000 if you are lucky. I'm budgeting about $10000-12000 for my stroker but my crankshaft and rods just arrove about $600 under budget and I'm going to do as much work myself (including some balancing) so I'm a little bit ahead atm. You can always turbo the car which is generally considered good bang for your buck as I'm sure you are aware. I'm a bit anti turbo (I have no logical reasoning for this, my arguments may include reliability, maintainence and turbo lag and the whole nostalgic thing with the old carbied engine but everyone can argue for and against these points). I appreciate a nice turbo setup and I wouldn;t kick one out of the garage for farting but I'm happy with my stroker choice (again I know it's not logical). And then there's always engine conversions... but that could go on. I have been researching strokers for a while, but I'm not that mechanically minded and most of my info is just parroted from what I've read/seen so I'm sure people will poke holes in some of what I have said. If you have any questions feel free to pm, I'll pull out some old links I have and give you a detailed parts list or we could organise another meet sometime soon. In short, don't let people put you off a stroker, just realise that you could probably get more more power for a lot less going another route. It's just not practical but... the torque!!

Thanks for the write up Greg, very helpful. Sp far I haver read through 80% of it Looking good, so your bumper brace thingy worked out alright? You should do a write up and post pics of your badges as well, they look terrific