NZeder

I did something sim to the Hopper Stopper kit on my last 240z. The common VT rotor and caliper trick worked well on a high performance road car for sure. Did not given them a go on the track as I sold the car before I put the car back on the track with these installed.

This is the car that made me paint my zed the factory 907 Green. My 260z was the metallic green from the factory code 240 like zedevan's. But I liked the colour of the "Grand Prix Green - GP Green" code 907. This colour was discontinued after 1970 and is flat/non metallic which I also liked. I can't wait to put my car together and take a pic of it. But for now here is the inspiration for my colour choice.

Just don't let it take 13 years like my project and my zed has been in the shed at home for 2 months with no work either and I can't blame the bro any more as it is now all me damn work getting in the way and taking me OS but I did pit crew for the Targa NZ so that was my own doing taking myself way from the car for a week and a bit. So Lurch do get back to it

Did you post on hybridz.org there might be guys in the USA interested in this kind of thing? Mind you I believe Brian Crower will make a custom one off crank of your choice for arond $3200 USD. So if you don't get this off the ground and you want one that is a path also.

Not sure about the cut and weld - I did not like that idea anyway Stewart Wilkins Motorsport in NSW is the company in question - I have purchase a number of parts from them over the years and they are good to deal with. Here is a link to there site. http://swmotorsport.com.au/

Not quite - basically the fix is relocating the steering arms and or the lower control arms. The spacers move the lower control arms so the geo is almost back to the factory location however this does alter the roll centre which might be fine on a road car but a race car might have issues with this. The other fix is relocating the lower control arm mounting point. This as the same effect as the spacers - back to almost factory location but again roll centre altered. The other and more costly fix is new or altering (as in cut and weld) the steering arms which relocates the steering connection point (ie where the tie rod joins and thus changing the relationship with the lower control arm but not altering the roll centre) Other have fixed the issue with custom tie rod ends using rose joints (might not be road legal in Oz but here in NZ it is ok with an engineering cert) and relocating the steering arm via a threaded tapered thing - not sure what they are called but here is pic

Ok so you just need me to scan the badges then?

So question - would this setup be for NA or Turbo? If I had some $$ I would be interested in the NA setup - however with my RB conversion I just might have to wait and see what they make for RB in the future - I see they are looking at a RB30 stroker kit but like most RB stuff will be turbo

sounds good - I will see if I can get them restored locally to remove the pitting - but shot me a PM with your email and postal address and I will be in contact.

I have some of the originals non plastic type ie metal. However they were not that well looked after and have some pits in them. If they are boomerangs I could ship from NZ to Oz

Yes that would be nice - if you do it do it right I say maybe make it a 85mm crank so 3.2L could be had without going to large on the overbore ie 87mm bore and 85mm stroke to make a just over 3.0L and 88mm bore and 85mm stroke = just over 3.1 If you went to 89mm or 90mm you get 3173cc and 3244cc with a 85mm stroke

Japan if your budget goes that far. Or have some made locally it will be cheaper - trust me on that one.

Synergypower then (not connected to them at all just love the concept)

I know fourway engineering (classic car resto shop in london) In the uk make them. But $$ for shipping so a good local guy could fab on up for the same or less $$

Not heard of it happening before - however as you state with more modern rubber and track services + I am sure the zeds are going quicker now than they did in the day = more forces etc. I have seen others do the wedge welded in between the strut tube and the stub axle to eliminate this bend/flex as you have found. I did see a pic on the interweb at one point - will see if I can find a sample again. Might be a good idea to do something as I am sure finding replace front struts/stubs will become harder and harder as time goes by.

Just got back from a trip OS and I am pleased with what you have done in the last few weeks - Well done

Are you sure that is the inner ie the bit that attaches to the Rack under the boot. Last I heard you can only get one side and it must come with a outer tie rod also (this is from Nissan) and it was up there in the $$ for sure. If you do find out you can get them find out if it is the LHD thread or the RHD thread side. As I want to remove the LHD thread side on my rack and run 2 x RHD thread so I can use the 79 non power 280zx outer tie rod as these are 10mm longer than the 240z/260z outer tie rod and will allow my to have more thread in the inner rack end as with the camber I am running they are only just in there so the extra 10mm would be good but the 280zx units are RHD thread only = I must replace one side of the inner rack end. I have tried all aftermarket suppliers and no-one makes them any more from my searching. I was even thinking of taking my rack to an engineer and have the ends drilled and tapped so I could use a more common/modern rack end - might have still have to do that if I can't find another RHD thread inner rack end.

Re the seem welding comment - don't race into that too much. I recall .... memory bank checking..... that back in the day BRE or was it Sharp or Electromotive....they stated with their testing of the chassis no seem welding was required as the car was strong - yes it flexes but when a cage is installed and the strut towers tied into this seem welding is not required. Well that is what they found in the 70's but we are now talking about 90/00 technology of engines/power etc.

Kyle - latest pics look good - fits well. I am sure many a US hybridz owner would love to have a IL6 that is 4.0 and turbo'd

Mate just realized I forgot to wish you a happy birthday on the night So happy birthday Sunday. It was great to met you guys and put faces to names and forum names (but I am crap at that stuff - I can remember numbers and useless info but am bad with names......ahhh)

Most R200 require 29 spline inputs, this is both short nose and long nose. There are few exceptions. The ones I know about are. S15 R200 from the 6 speed cars have the Helical LSD centres these have 31 splines for the input. R32 R200 GTR Clutch LSD (might also be o nthe R33 and R34 but not sure) these have 31 splines for the input. Most opens are 29 spline. If you are taling R230 that is a different ball game right there. I think the new Subaru that uses the R200 is the same as the S15 helical unit = 31 splines on the input. All the VLSD I have seen (all short nose R200) have 29 splines but Z31/R30 axles will not work as they don't have the longer input to engage the VLSD centre = use these axles with a VLSD = you have an open diff still. I have seen after market Helical LSD centres for the R200 with 29 spline inputs (I have 2 of the Balltec versions, and a mate here as another non quaife helical unit with 29 splines. I also have an OBX Helical LSD centre installed in my 4.11 long nose R200. The OBX centre is for a S13/S14 short nose open diff and it has 29 splines for the input) So most have 29 spline input from what I have found. I have not heard of a R200 with 25 spline inputs ever. R180 yes R200 no.

Just found out what type of car I will be in. On of the pool cars from the office = toyota prius hybrid

Blackdragon much cheaper - but if you can find their supplier and get it direct it might be even cheaper http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/z/full.aspx?Page=99

So is this for a 260z ear mount or the 240z flat mount? Got a pic?

Looking good - can't wait to see the selected colour on the finished shell