zedevan

Hey sorry couldn't find where this was posted to follow up I can't find anyone willing to part with one that's in better condition than what I already have. What sort of price would I be looking at? Thanks Gav!

I'd like a passenger side front fender...preferably without indicator holes

I work in west melbourne and everyone there uses the mechanic around the corner who's apparently a helpful honest guy. Can find out the name of the business first thing tomorrow morning if it's of interest.

I just had my semi daily prht nc written off by a tool running into with with a stolen car. Replaced it with a truck (which strangely is probably more fun to commute in) so hoping that motivates me to spend more/some time on the datto at some point!

Hey Gav, the way I see it if you're just storing a car somewhere and can't work on it, it may as well be a few hours away so it's as cheap as possible. There are exceptions to this, but I figure those people generally have enough money to store the car on their own property, or that many cars so money also isn't that much of an issue. Unless you're talking really close to a bunch of highrise apartments which might be planned for southland? There's a few motorbike places around doing a general 'shared workshop' space, obviously easier for them due to the size of a dismantled bike vs a dismantled car. So not sure how a car version would go. ie http://www.kustomkommune.com.au/ http://www.benzinagarage.com.au/and shared woodwork / lasercutter / cnc places like http://www.normwarehouse.com.au/ https://www.spacetankstudio.com.au/ I dream of buying a warehouse in a nearby residential street, but realistically it seems like it'd be cheaper for me to buy a house with around double the land size and just have a large garage - likely more convenient with kids etc anyway as can "watch them" I agree the market has to crash at some point, but I can't see that crash bringing prices back to where they were 10 years ago. I'm guessing in a crash a solely commercial property would be hurt more, as businesses shut down before people live on the street? On the plus though commercial properties normally have longer leases?

if that falls through I'm keen to buy the 7/8's master

does that mean the standard rb sump works also?

I have a 200zr sump, a pickup and castlemain hotrod engine/gearbox mounts I could be tempted to part with as are just getting dusty. Apparently their quality control went out the window at some point, so there's a chance they don't bolt up as perfectly first shot as they should, so holes might need to be elongated or something - not sure.

Thanks PB, those pics really help explain it. I had incorrectly assumed it was referring to the way the arm was connected to the car, and that the weight was neutral with a tandem trailer. Mooa42, was your trailer a custom one? most tandems that i can find weight specs for are closer to 600kg.

so a rocker one has a hinge to allow vertical movement? I'd assumed most would be like this to ensure it sat evenly on all 4 wheels so thanks for pointing out the difference. One a single axle trailer i'm guessing it's just a case of having the car centered? however making sure its perfectly balanced would be near impossible so there's likely a chance it will be putting extra load on or off the car?

I'd be keen to grab the front passenger side fender assuming there's not much rust in it

cheers, I don't currently have the intention of transporting it on a trailer to track days or interstate etc. I'd basically written off the single axle trailers until I was watching someone putting some silvia's on and off one the other night - they stated they don't like taking silvias very far on it and mainly have it for transporting their track mx5 - which i'm guessing would be well under 1tone. A blow out would be dam scary though! I'll likely end up going for a car with a 1,800kg rating as have a soft spot for the H6's and would like to not be pushing the car to its limit, however the rating itself would have a factor of safety on it (so an STI gt would be sweet but is only rated to 1,500kg also - on that topic I find it strange a 2007 gt forester can tow 1,800kg, but a gt liberty of the same year can only do 1,500kg even when its running the same suspension/wheels as a H6 liberty which is also rated up to 1,800kg)

Thanks for the weights of your cars guys, the 2+2 one makes me feel a bit more comfortable with the <1200kg weight. well it's currently missing some bits and this would require towing it to some scales??? haha That's what I'm trying to work out - if I'm only hiring trailers then I need a more serious tow car but I don't want a 'large' car or have to rely on swapping or borrowing cars in order to tow the zed around, as my mates with 4wd's or even commodores generally live 45min or so away and just makes it all too hard. For the amount I will need to tow, purchasing a trailer nearly seems excessive but I kind of need a trailer for general house reno stuff anyway so am thinking I'll make up a box to sit on there for that sort of stuff. Since the zed should be under 1200kg I'm thinking a single axle tilta trailer (or other 300kg aluminium trailer) will suit fine and allow me to use a car with only a 1500kg braked limit. ie liberty wagon and a bunch of others. Any thoughts on the negatives of single axle trailers? The next option up would be a tandom tilta trailer (or other ~500kg trailer) which would mean a 2003-2009 H6 liberty or 2010+ GT (the 'ugly' ones) is required to tow up to 1800kg, and therefore a 1300kg car could be transported. Being able to tow that bit extra is tempting me just incase anyone ever wants to tow a commodore behind a 4wd etc, since the tandom tilta trailers can tow up to a 1500kg car. Realistically I can only see myself ever wanting to tow light cars and go karts.

Thanks guys, its the 'lightened cars' that weigh around 1,100kg that have me scared that mine might be heavier

Hey Guys, Am wondering what a realistic weight for a 76 260z 2 seater would be in normal street trim with all fluids, so basically factory spec. I'm hoping its under 1,200kg so I can tow it easier. From google its coming in at 1,100kg but I'm concerned this is for an early one that's a 240z shell. Then ofcourse most of the weights people are talking about online is stripped out track cars, or 280z's being too heavy thanks to their bumpers! Cheers, Evan

I believe OEM headlights have small PTFE (gortex) vents - so if you have an old waterproof jacket (or get one from an op-shop) made of the stuff you could cut it up and stick it on. The intention being to let it breathe without letting moisture in or out. It also typically starts to weep if left in contact with water for more than half an hour, so if it was at the lowest point it might slowly let drips come out should they ever get in elsewhere.

my s15 also had a fujisubo exhaust, I think it was quite nicely made

Aren't these raised off the surface, so therefore part of the tool? Would likely have to see a part without powdercoat on it to see if there's a witness line from an insert. Most companies don't let their logo's simply be an insert in the tool to try to prevent the same factory from using their tools to make knockoffs - there is ofcourse very little that can be done to stop them machining complete copy tools other than hoping they dont want to invest the money to do so.

I've previously owned some Driftek's, all the spokes weren't equal offset from the brake caliper which lead to a small chunk being taken out of one, but other than that they did the job... FWIW it doesn't cost anything in China to claim to meet certificates or even put the relevant logo's into the parts. The only way to get close to trusting they actully even know how to meet the standards without going over there is if they make wheels for a reputable company as it appears you have tried to find out. Then they are probably just saving costs by not destructively testing 1 out of every 20 wheels or whatever quality control system the 'brand name' ones enforce. It's all good and well to even have pictures of a nice factory, there's a chance it just means the guy knows someone who works there so managed to get some pictures of it while making wheels in his mum's shed. Source: Part of my job is to outsource stuff to China. Last time I was there I was going to buy some Chinese carbon bike wheels, lets just say I didn't buy any...we also get SS stuff machined in China, and sometimes it rusts within a couple of weeks as the people we trust over there can't reliably source pure materials locally in the short leadtime we required, and someone in the supply line has decided they should save money by getting a one batch through his brother's cousin's sister and doesn't tell anyone...over there to control the quality you have to supervise every step of the process

I only just saw that this was happening...Gav is there any chance of having the 'upcoming club events' bit on the homepage have this info in the future? I don't think I'll be able to make it by the time I get home and head out to Moorabbin...

you can get that front spoiler in fibreglass from a guy in Sale, Vic. Contact details are in the thread which can be found »Technical »Body work »Types of S30 Front Air Dams and where to get them in AUS

that's true lurch, but dont think i'm not tempted!

I would but they interfere with the EFI intake manifold, and I believe are double the price when you factor in coating them

Alan stated there was enough interest in these at the $650 price he had advertised them for to justify putting them up for auction, so we should expect to see them on ebay soon? Curious to know who else was after them and if there is enough interest to see if the Australian reseller could justify bringing in a few sets? I was after them as an alternative to mending the headers I have, since its a pretty good price for headers that are coated... There's a BIN set on ebay US for about US640/AUD700 delivered, so I'd say Alan had them priced at what they should cost to bring in new... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Z-240Z-280Z-280ZX-N42-P90-E88-E31-P90A-Ceramic-Coated-Header-NEW-/151263177743?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2337fcec0f&vxp=mtr

Was going to add myself to the order but would want them to work with my existing HID bulbs - and since they wont i cant really justify it right now sorry. FWIW 55w HIDs are crazy bright...standard is 35w and 4300k is the standard HID colour temperature. The blue light you see from oncoming cars with HID's is caused by diffraction as it goes through the lens, not from the light itself being blue...5000k isn't so bad though.