gav240z

So how did you open the stuck filler neck? Heat and a blow torch?

Problem with Patina is it seems like more work to retain it than just do it properly. On the Safari Gold car I've been trying to do it, but I don't think it will be viable. Unless I can somehow blend new paint to look 'patina'. On a 2+2 I like the darker hues because they hide the extended roofline better. The original green is a great colour when done right. I also saw a really nice 2+2 in a dark blue once. Looked the tits. So my vote is: Green Blue Orange Red Black White Yellow

Sam when you do figure it out, and go through it. Would you mind posting a tutorial with photos etc..? In this style? http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,14230.msg150692.html#msg150692 I'm sure it will help others in future.

For our mate Kerrigan. http://www.buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/r113319187 Also has a link to their store. http://store.speedshopkubo.com/

Hi Guys, I just came across these videos, I think they're great.

Another quick question, can anyone recommend a brand or type of valve spring compressor that works well on L-series heads? There are a few different designs on eBay. But I figure someone has a preference for 1 that works well?

I have L28 718416 in the Safari Gold car.

So no updates for the last couple of weeks because I was in Melbourne and doing some maintenance work on the 72 Z (Evie). http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,14206.0.html (as a side note I've got some of that old footage of my Z's to upload to the Youtube's soon!). So anyway with regard to the Safari Car (as I call it). I picked up some parts in Melbourne to cart back with me on the drive. 1. Triple Mikuni's. 2. N42 Head (the freebie from Lurch) 3. LD28 Crank 4. L14 rods (all 12) I am actually not sure what the next steps of the engine build are, so I decided to start by cleaning up the block and degreasing as much as possible. Some before shots for comparison. Mmm look at all that oil and crud. So I tried some degreaser stuff I bought and it was pretty average to be honest, but I also got some Oven Cleaner (Mr Muscle!) and man that stuff rocks the casbah for getting crud off. I used steel wool to clean up the engine number area. Who would have thought under all that crud was blue paint? I also cleaned up the BIG NISSAN valve cover. Got rid of all the old oil under the cover and timing cover (although might use some sand-paper to clean up the water pump area. I also started on the N42 head cleaning it up etc..problem is I don't have a valve spring compressor so I can't remove the exhaust valves. The intake valves were already taken and the camshaft is missing. I cleaned up the chambers with steel wool and oven cleaner - I didn't leave the Oven Cleaner on for long because it can react with alloy as far as I'm aware. Although I doubt this would cause much harm here. I haven't used sand paper (or the wire brush in the photo) on it yet, not sure if that's ok or too rough? Some before photos of this N42 head to show you how clean it looks now vs before. Obviously still some cleaning up to do. 1 issue though is that Lurch had mentioned the head had some previous repair work done to it when I picked it up (many moons ago). There was some kind of 'cement' like stuff near the #1 spark plug hole and some previous welding repair work done. When I scraped it 'cement stuff' off you can see a hole under it. This is a photo directly under it. Not sure if this is a coolant passage or what? My questions are: 1. Is this easily fixed? 2. Is this a common problem area on these heads? 3. Is it worth investing money in this head or starting with another? My assumption is that it's not too bad.. but if you have other thoughts let me know?

Not a Datsun, but another classic japanese car I've always liked. Honda S600 http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=171310690892#description With original power plant also, which is quite rare. I have too many projects already.

Also as Mossy mentioned those are other good areas to check for fumes seeping into the cabin. BTW: I think the black looks good on the top of the fender, especially if you're keeping the rally car theme. The previous owner of my 72 Z was a big fan of the works rally cars, hence the dual exhaust system he had made to suit. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,14206.0.html Although I just realised no photos in that thread show them clearly. Ash at Moorrabbin Auto Spares http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/board,125.0.html Has a vinyl cutter and he has created a replica of the 240ZR Using Adobe Illustrator he traced out the designs from reference photos like the 1 above, the car looks awesome and accurate. Hopefully he'll show it off some time. . But you could possibly do the same to get the rally car livery correct. This is what I was thinking of doing to my 72.

Vapor Lock was apparently a problem on 260z's with the flat top carbs, hence the addition of the vented bonnet. I've never personally experienced this problem on any of my Z's - Although my 240z does have the vented bonnet, my other Z's didn't. The standard 240z SU's had an orange airbox that fed in cold air from the front of the car. You car has the pod filter type things - presumably because the standard air box wouldn't fit on those non-OEM carbs. If you're not going Triples, I'd source a set of OEM SU's and Airbox which should also include the OEM heat shield. You could also source a vented hood, but I personally am not a fan of the grilles in the later Z bonnet. I think they look out of place on the rest of the car. Alternatively you could vent the inspection lids for the battery and washer bottle as a cheaper way around it. Too much ignition timing could also be causing the car to run hotter than it should. You don't have any engine run-on issues after turning the car off do you? The best way to find out how she's really running is to put her onto a dyno. You may be better off going to a stock camshaft profile. The 240z's have an A-Grind cam - the rear of the cam has a stamped 'A'.

Awesome, yeah just noticed they are advertised for other Japanese models also like Toyota Crown etc.. so I'd be interested to see how they look on a Z. It seems like a great price to be honest, not sure how they can make them so cheap but it has got me wondering what the quality is like. So looking forward to your feedback.

1. The rear panel is grey from factory, I like both black and grey. On your car it looks like someone has decided to go for the Works Rally Car look and I believe they had a black rear panel to match the black bonnet etc.. 2. Replace all gaskets around the rear of the car, fumes is a problem on all early Z-cars it seems. Due to their shape and the way air moves around the back of the car. If you have your driver window open try opening the passenger window at the same time and see if that helps? The exhaust on your car might not help because it doesn't extend far past the rear of the car. Given your smoothed off bumper I'm not sure what the best approach here would be, other than to consider putting a rear bumper on and extending the exhaust out a bit more? 3. I don't know any specialists in Brisbane for L-series engines myself, but I'm sure someone will. Those SU's may be under sized, they are not the original Hitachi Style ones. Modified OEM SU's can and do perform quite well. Otherwise you may want to consider some Triples, but hard to know what to suggest without knowing what engine work has been done and what cam is in it. Overall I really like the look you have on this car, I've been thinking about painting my 72 240z's bonnet black (not the fender tops so much) but the bonnet yes. I really like the old Rally Cars. Maybe get the rest of the livery made up if you know someone with a vinyl cutter?

Ok so it looks like these mirrors may have also been used on the Datsun 510's of the same vintage. Photo is from eBay seller tokyo-2u

2 sets of L14 rods. Set 1 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/390826248286 Set 2 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/390826249077 I previously bought a set of L14 rods off this seller.

I like how lairy it looks, but not sure on the bosozoku style fender extensions either side of the bonnet or the massive dildo gear knob. Also preferred Nardi steering wheel to the last photo. There was a 240K tail light on eBay. I hope you won it? http://www.ebay.com/itm/DATSUN-240K-GT-TAIL-LIGHT-RARE-NOT-240Z-260Z-/181385202172

Ben I've a set of British S.U's I believe they are HS6 type. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,13725.0.html I'm not sure on the throat size as I can't measure them from Sydney (they are in Melbourne) but if they would suit let me know? I'm open to offers on them. They will need a rebuild kit - but the throttle shafts were re-bushed many years ago and they ran before the car (my old 260z 2+2) met it's maker. They look like the ones on this page. http://www.carburetterspecialists.fsnet.co.uk/su%20pictures%20page.htm http://www.carburetterspecialists.fsnet.co.uk/Hs6.jpg Also open to a trade for other Z parts instead of cash?

Check out the price of this LSD. $1,525.00 and 1 day to go. http://www.ebay.com/itm/121325079920

71 Z has been relisted due to non-paying eBayer. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Datsun-240z-Sports-1971-2D-Coupe-5-SP-Manual-2-8L-Twin-webers/251513019243 Second chance to win her!

I thought I'd share this article. http://www.caranddriver.com/features/baby-boomers-created-the-classic-car-marketand-could-crash-it-feature Which got me thinking about the Z and where it will stand in the future for collector car status. I wonder if an early Z with an RB26DETT or perhaps newer heart will be more desirable than 1 with an L24 / L28 and period correct look? Only time will tell I guess.

Adjusting the timing without a timing light is going to be best guess. I wouldn't adjust it further until you get a timing light on it. I'm not familiar with the petronix units but I'm going to guess you can't adjust dwell now because the points are eliminated? It does sound like an electrical timing issue with the back-firing going on. Does the distributor look like it's in good condition? Older distributors can wear the shaft out and have slop which makes setting timing almost impossible. But cross that bridge if timing goes erratic under the strobe light of a timing gun.

Well I'm out because I need a 240z door.

Early S30Z console trim piece. http://www.ebay.com/itm/DATSUN-NISSAN-240Z-FAIRLADY-CENTER-CONSOLE-CHOKE-PLATE-TRIM-1970-1973-260Z-280Z-/201077637716

Bump - classes are starting again tomorrow, right now it's full up but they are looking at running a second class. So please call Kristen O'Brien on 02 9217 5270 to express your interest in attending this quarter. Some people were asking about photos of the work I did in the class and apart from the ones in the build thread I thought I'd share these also. We basically hand made this panel from a flat square bit of steel. Starting with a paper template. You cut out something like this And then you end up with something that looks roughly like this.

PGC10 and S20 motor for sale. http://page7.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/g138304479 Current Price: 1.3M yen (approx 13K AUD) Might be missing some stuff though.