gav240z

Apart from that though it does look like a great example think its been for sale for a while on and off. Not sure they have ever signed up here. Might have been involved with the NDSOC at some point. Early 2000s perhaps? Changing interior is the cheap part as we all know anyway.

I think as Alfadog suggested looking at the global market would make things far more interesting. I think the Safari Rally cars really deserve to be in there - more so than the pace car - which I've never seen before. The home market got some interesting variations like the Fairlady 240zg (with that nose cone piece and flares), PS30 (Fairlady 432) with a unique motor (S20) although hard to show on your poster, then perhaps the most interesting of all the 432-R which I'm sure Alan (HS30-H) could give you plenty of info about. Also some markets like Portugal got Kobe Seiko wheels as standard and the Australian market had it's own share of unique details on our models also. I think it would be important to show the 260z (since your poster only shows the 280z) and the 2+2 introduction in 1974 - in particular the AU market got a bucket load of these compared with 2 seaters.

I felt sorry for you missing out on the pickles 240z but glad to see you got this car. Looks good and the wheels will make her even better.

I think the reproduction bumpers are OK but not as solid as the originals were. They are a bit more flimsy. I don't know if that is what the eBay set are like though.

Peter I still listen to that stuff lol... I should start a thread similar to the what I watched last night.. But instead what I'm currently listening to .

That is a reproduction I have seen 2 genuine used ones sell recently for around 100 AU.

I'm still wondering what kind of barn does that to paint? Barn find, more like field find.

For a second i wasn't sure if I was reading an ad for a car or playboy magazine.

Parts of Interest. Early Console Trim Piece. http://www.ebay.com/itm/DATSUN-NISSAN-240Z-FAIRLADY-CENTER-CONSOLE-CHOKE-PLATE-TRIM-1970-1973-260Z-280Z-/161270800077 Hooded Map Light Trim. Later 240z style. http://www.ebay.com/itm/DATSUN-NISSAN-240Z-FAIRLADY-DASH-CENTER-MAP-LIGHT-BEZEL-1970-1973-260Z-280Z-/161270790468 Reproduction S30Z Tail Lights (Amber turn signal). http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240Z-Tail-Lamp-JDM-Euro-Spec-Reproduction-New-Made-Blem-Units-/380880410584 George has some competition with this car. (What a rat rod lol). http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Z-Series-240-RARE-1970-DATSUN-240Z-BARN-FIND-ALL-ORIGINAL-/271442748539

Wow! http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Rare-NOS-Nissan-Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-Fairlady-ZG-Fender-Mirrors-/191121938325 S30z Fender Mirrors went for $1000 + USD.

That looked like brown trousers time to me. Man you fly through that course.

Hey Gareth, That is a form of sludge / rusty crap that was in the bottom block, surprisingly not on #4 but around #5 and #6. When I drained the sump a thick-shake like consistency came out of the pan (oil + old coolant mixed in). Yummo. It should clean off ok though and the crank span freely - no binding etc... In terms of piston size, well the dished ones are not really re-usable (I'm assuming and I dropped 1 from about 0.5m high when getting them out) and it will also depend on the cylinder head I use, camshaft profile and head work as to what I replace them with. I will probably need oversized pistons to suit the new bore although #4 looks not bad to be honest, so I'm thinking of going out to 89mm for the 3.1ltr stroker but will depend on how the block (F54) checks out in terms of thickness etc... I'd be just as happy with a 3.0ltr stroker also to be honest - not going to get upset over 0.1 ltr of capacity. In the old days the combo was L14 rods, LD28 crank and Honda motorcycle XL-500 pistons. But I've not really been looking into it too much yet, just taking 1 step of this rebuild at a time. I have a spare set of L24 rods (6) and 2 sets of L14 (12) rods so pistons that work with that and the LD28 crank will be what I'm after - again everything is going to need to be balanced anyway. I don't think I need the expense of forged but again I haven't really looked into it. Ideally light pistons would be a bonus though. At this stage it looks most likely I'll be using an N42 head. Unless I can source a P90 at a fair price.

I'm afraid I can't make this 1, as much as I'd love to.

Awesome info Dave, I had scored bottom end bearings (scratch lines in them) so something foreign / contaminated oil was running through the motor. So I'll need to clean everything out as suggested. I'll let Doom have his thread back lol..

Thanks mate, yeah I started to do that but the punch just started to go through the plug (as in a hole in it) as oppose to push it to 1 side. Will give it some thought.

2 2 seaters S30Z's on eBay. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Datsun-240z-and-260z-/171292775222?pt=AU_Cars&hash=item27e1d85336&_uhb=1 73 240z. 260z coupe

240z dashboard on eBay with 2 hours to go. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Dashboard-240Z-Datsun-Fairlady-/151267325717 If any NSW members want it, I might be able to pick it up and bring it back with me to NSW. Depending on space I have in the car. I asked seller for photos of top to see if there are any cracks etc.. but seems they couldn't upload them. So no idea if it's any good.

^Thanks Peter, I believe that seller is the same as the member here: http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,13946.msg149705/topicseen.html I did express interest in some of the interior pieces he has listed, but looks like the seller has decided to go via eBay now.

Sorry guys but why are we blocking off this orifice? Or are we just using a threaded screw for easier removal later than the stock plug? Since it is related any tips for removing the freeze / welsh / coolant plugs? I have tried a hammer and punch but I think mine are rusted in nicely. So thinking of drilling a hole then inserting a slide hammer to pull them out? Just want to be careful not to damage cylinder bores on other side.

Ok both threads are merged. I think you've been given good advice from Alan in this thread. If you want specific parts for your Z second hand please ask our members who may be able to help. You can also use www.gumtree.com.au and www.ebay.com.au to find parts, we don't really use craigslist over here. If you want to buy from Japan you can use a service like buyee.jp, importmonster.com.au, 'jesse streeter', www.importmonky.com or rhdjapan.com Out of those I've used rhdjapan.com to find parts specific to a JDM Mazda RX-7. They offer a good service but you'll often have to have an order above a specific value before they will chase down specific parts for you.

Old thread but the crank in my L28 F54 block reads P30. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,13624.msg149553.html#msg149553 I know the L24 blocks are P30 stamped, does this mean I have an L24 crank in it? Or is there another stamping on the crank? LD28 cranks = V0740 stamp. (83mm stroke) Photo of stamping is here. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,13969.msg149624.html#msg149624

Hey Doom, good timing I am in the middle of an engine tear down and now trying to decide on what path to take with my build. I want to do as much of the build myself as possible. I'm looking to build a stroker so use LD28 crank, L14 or L24 rods (depends on piston choices I have available), Triple Mikuni's, N42 head (F54 block cause that is what I have, will probably go to 89mm on the bore but not going to push it to have 0.1 of a litre more capacity) and valve train wise I still don't know what to use yet. I heard bad things about Schneider cams when I posted the cam shaft kit I had on here a while ago, but James Flett said he's used them without issue. So just goes to show everyone has their own choices and preferences when it comes to these things. From what I've learnt and read over the years, selection of the correct camshaft and engine head work is critical to getting the right performance from your motor for it's application. In particular it's not the size of the ports, but their shape, most gains seem to be found around the underside of the valves (the angles here) and the seat area. Also I think on the L-series heads the valve stem area is also quite an impediment to flow so re-shaping that area can help reduce unwanted turbulence. A couple of articles I read last night were talking about looking at the head's CFM and matching a camshaft to suit, it really is about experimenting with what works and doesn't on a dyno I think. I didn't have too much issue getting my motor apart - I really thought the stuck piston was going to give me grief but everything came apart relatively easily and no broken bolts or rusted ones thankfully.

I remember those photos from Classiczcar days, in terms of budget. $15k is low but it all depends on what you can and cannot do yourself. I'm trying to keep mine to a relatively strict budget but I can already see myself blowing that idea on the engine alone .

Yeah I saw half the episode before it was yanked from Youtube for copyright violation, it was not in a good way when it arrived. I think it looks good in Black don't get me wrong, but I figured to get maximum value from it at auction you would want it original to appeal to that kind of collector. Then again it was a total car that was saved and that is part of it's history and may in fact add to its value later on, who knows right? Time will tell.

So it would seem, I hadn't intended this thread to be specifically about Kombi's rather about the value of classic cars that have gone through the roof. I see this in Marrickville and love it as a rat rod / patina style vehicle, but I now wonder what it's worth? This Boss 429 Mustang didn't get nearly what they had hoped for it, but honestly that kind of coin is huge for that era Mustang. http://youtu.be/3QVfj7uNHqo?t=6m56s Same guys restored an F40 Ferrari. But they painted it Black instead of red and removed the original seats. I think they should have kept it original and red myself, would have returned more value perhaps closer to 1M?