gav240z

I agree about $5k less than a car in equivalent condition in RHD, as this would likely be the cost of conversion. I don't know anything about insurance costs (registration doesn't matter because it's over 30 years old - you don't have to convert it). If you're not driving it daily I don't think it's a big deal, I've seen plenty of US Muscle cars getting around in LHD. To be honest, I think it is better to buy a rust free or tidy LHD car, over restoring a rusty RHD car. Converting them can't be too expensive if you can obtain the parts and you're willing to do some of the work. 1 advantage of leaving it LHD is that you can get parts from the US easily and cheap. There is a couple of Zeds I know of that are US imports here now.

I guess if you change your mind on flares you can always put standard guards back in. There is reproduction rear wheel arch panels and fronts can be changed easily. Just paint then so depends on how easy your colour will be to match.

Thanks for the photos, so you have a 260z hatch on your car? Didn't know they were the same on the 2 seaters. Let me know if you want to sell that hatch? No rush though. Going to start on doors next I think.

Hi guys, Unfortunately my 72 is in Melbourne so I can't compare with the 70 hatch I have on my car in Sydney. So the 70 hatch has been bogged in the rear and I'm not sure what other surprises I'll find when I strip her back. The hatch itself looks quite rust free everywhere else, so I may repair it yet and cut out the damaged section / fabricate it up etc... However I'm wondering if a later hatch can be modified to create an earlier rear hatch with the vents in it? Apart from the vents below the rear screen is there any other obviously differences? It seems to me they just removed the vents (Obviously the rear hatch trim is also different) but that is fine and can be changed. I'm happy to take detailed photos of the current hatch if someone is able to post same for a later 1? Cheers,

Great to hear it mate, I'm going to be buying floors soon so this is good news (was about to ask about how good the rare spares units are?). I think I might go full length rails on the early car, firm it up and make it handle better. I know it won't be original per-se but I'd rather the handling than have it feel like a wet noodle. Sometimes you just gotta be pragmatic .

5 Speed Knob (Reproduction). http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-reproduction-shift-knob-5-speed-walnut-/380920598746 Other Datsun gear they have. http://stores.ebay.com/CG-Woodcraft/DATSUN-/_i.html?_fsub=589778419 Amber turn signals. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240Z-Front-Park-Turn-Signal-Lamp-Lens-Set-1970-1973-/221457692024 Brand new. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240z-260z-Front-Park-Turn-Signal-Lenses-NEW-/370973979951 Early ash-tray + lid. http://www.ebay.com/itm/DATSUN-240Z-SERIES-1-ASH-TRAY-USED-/121353527087 http://www.ebay.com/itm/DATSUN-240Z-ASH-TRAY-FUSE-COVER-/191198044475

Nice work, yeah can't believe how cheap Scoota is able to make those parts for the front of the car. Seems you're quite proficient with the welder there. I'm still trying to master the oxy but slowly getting better. I do wonder what other surprises await you (and me for that matter). .

I have used Jesse Streeter yes. But you'll need to add cost of sending to Jesse then cost to send onto you plus Jesse's fee. Those Kobe Seiko wheels are rare. Although I think I've seen the wheels you're talking about but never more than 1 listed.

Yeah the 1 advantage of glass is not rust, so what fades quicker glass or metal surfaces? Thanks for the feedback, I imagine a G-nose is not easy to make accurately. Will send you a PM.

Hi guys, So my 70 240z will more than likely need another passenger side head light scoop, the 1 that came with the car will be more work to repair than just sourcing a good second hand 1. I found a good pair for $180, but I seem to recall that Top Stage was doing them in fibreglass? http://www.topstage.com/ Or perhaps Alfa does? http://www.motorsportfibreglass.com.au/products.php Unfortunately I don't see them listed on Alfa's site and Top Stage's website is slow right now and doesn't respond. I guess I wanted to start this thread for 2 reasons. 1. Do you think I should go with fibreglass because early 240z's came that way? Or is it much of a muchness? Give it's not seen once painted? 2. If you think fibreglass is the go, does anyone have feedback on the fit and quality of the Top Stage products? For me the sugar scoops at the front of the car are central to the whole look of the Z and the panel gaps and fit of all the front end panels is really important. Thoughts?

Not sure, but I think this might be the ignition barrel for a Z432-R that goes in the transmission tunnel instead of near the steering column? http://www.buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/g139288427 Price seems to indicate it's special.

Hi Guys, I came across this book today when searching for 'lead filling' and body filing and from the summary pages I can see it looks quite good. http://books.google.com.au/books?id=kxn5F7tvPdMC&lpg=PA114&ots=856WzU7OKB&dq=file%20finish%20bodywork&pg=PP1#v=onepage&q=file%20finish%20bodywork&f=false Just thought I'd post here on the odd chance that someone has it in their collection or has read it and if they have feedback? But I also thought perhaps there are other books on the same topic that people might want to share as a good resource and would recommend. Although I'm doing a practical course on bodywork at St George tafe this would be a useful supplemental bit of information since I can't always ask the teacher questions, especially when working from home on my own, which I'll need to do at some point! . Cheers,

Nobody for a left hooker? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Datsun-240z-Sports-1973-LHD-ex-California-/231250396800

Nice a shame you didn't say hi earlier. Oh well, good luck with the sale.

Easy test, when your cruising along in 4th gear at a low rpm like say 2500 rpm, floor the accelerator pedal and if the car starts to rev high and not go anywhere then suddenly feels like it starts to grip and move then you know it's a clutch slipping issue. How old is the clutch and when was it last replaced? Did you use a second hand clutch?

So what's the plans after it's registered?

Brand new clear lens versions. http://www.buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/d155283395 A little expensive, about 8-9 years ago I paid about $120 for 1 side. So I guess $300 for a pair ain't bad....most second hand ones are FUDGED by now. But you'll still need the plastic backing.

Not impressed Ledge?

That's the other problem, storing the bloody thing under a bench somewhere. I've got mine for the 72 240z, but to be honest it's been sitting there taking up space for the last 7 years. Do you want to be hanging onto a motor like that? Keep in mind that a high power L28 may require additional upgrades to drive train, like gearbox, diff, replace uni joints with CVs etc.. and that's no longer original. Not saying I disagree with it mind you, but it's more to weigh up.

Hey Guys, Just wondering is anyone going or planning to go? http://www.worldtimeattack.com/index.php/2014-wtac-tickets-now-on-sale/ A Mazda 787B will be there this year! http://www.worldtimeattack.com/index.php/legendary-mazda-767b-is-coming-to-wtac/ So much awesome sauce...

haha, from the sounds of it some buyers remorse at first or last minute jitters... don't worry I shit myself when I bought a second Z (HS30 00150) mainly because it dawned on me what I was about to take on...but no regrets I've learnt a lot already and I'm sure you'll enjoy the experience also. It helps to have a supportive partner, it really helps.

Not enough information....to cast a vote for me. 1. If you don't use the original motor, what would you use? Engine swap or L28? 2. What do you want from this car? From the sounds of things you're making it original. But are you building a concourse car or a 'period correct car' with subtle mods? Resto mod? 3. Do you have a specific HP goal in mind or what will the car be used for? Track days, club events, show n' shine, weekend car? 4. What kind of modifications are you willing to make? Convert to electronic ignition, fit triple carbs, fuel injection? You clearly wanted an early car, and you're clearly building it to be correct in terms of early differences in interior trim etc.. so from that perspective I'd vote for the original motor, but if you're looking for Horse Power, well there's no replacement for displacement as they say and a 3.0L L-series is the way to go. It's funny you started this thread as I'm having a similar dilemma, but my problem is more to do with budget constrain than staying original. I'm trying to decide if I do a refresh on my motor or build a stroker....decisions decisions.... the difference is $5k - $15k budget. I am kinda waiting to see what kind of tax return I get from Ireland + Australia (got 2 going on right now). *Edit Dimitri replied before me, I went for a ride in Dimitri's L24 240z - granted it's stripped out it still went well (better than my L28 powered Z) and had the smile factor. Torque was more than I expected also .

I will more than likely be in the RX7 for this. Looking forward to seeing some S30s on the road however.

I don't think much of George's interior could be salvaged from the sounds of it.

http://www.buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/f112498820 There was a set of clear indicators on eBay but I can't find them now.