gav240z

There is something in that Adelaide water I'm telling ya, those guys have got Z fever and the only cure is more cowbell. http://vimeo.com/55624839

I think I saw the ones you got too! Good price if I'm correct.

My 240z flywheel was lightened in the red car, I can't say how much as I didn't weigh it but for a street car it's as light as I'd want to go really. It made a difference in the way the motor revved and responded. For the cost of machining I'd just do that and likely will do that with my current L28 build. It's the harmonic balancer I'm not sure what to do about yet.

Thanks, for the small amount of effort and time involved in this mod I think it's a no-brainer for me. I want to get rid of all the crud, sworf etc.., even after a hot tank I'll probably still go over it again on my own as the L-engine rebuild book suggests as there can still be residual crud left over after a hot tank cleaning etc...

I appreciate the offer, and thanks for the photos I now understand exactly what needs to be cleared. Ok fair point, I don't think I'm going very Ghetto so the subject is a little misleading, like the rest of the car I want to do things correctly. Instead I'm going for a mild L28 at this stage. I had a good look at the low end bearings and found that there was a good chance of contaminated oil running through it, I don't think I posted photos of them, but I kept them for future reference and put them in bags with the bid end caps numbered based on cylinder etc.. So I can re-examine them if need be. That is my sentiment exactly, I'd be happy to use the plugs again, but if it's apart may as well do this modification in my opinion. Having said all that, today I tried to phone James at MIA Engines in DeeWhy and he wasn't about, so I called Stewart Wilkins instead. Talking to another member they told me they had a sonic tester etc.. so I called them up, told them I have a disassembled L-block and want to get it hot-tanked and remove the oil gallery plugs and tap them with allen head pipe plugs. I would have liked to do it myself, but I thought by the time I get myself a tap and die kit, make up the pipe plugs etc.. no doubt it will be another week that goes past and I'll still have a dirty block sitting in the garage. So I decided to outsource this part of the job. The sonic test on the block will reveal how far out she can be taken. Start making decisions from there on.

Just drawing wild conclusions of my own. Could be wrong.

Perhaps related to this? http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,14799.0.html

I spell checked for you, with what I assume you meant here. Yeah good idea, I'm not even sure this block will take 89mm pistons yet. I forgot to also mention I have another block and got another N42 head the other week here. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,14700.0.html So I might be able to check at least 2 blocks, but that might require cleaning 2 lots of components (paying twice).

So this thread has been a while in the making... To begin with you can find photos of the engine disassembly I already started in my build thread from this post onward here: http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,13624.msg148669.html#msg148669 The idea behind this thread is to rebuild an L-series on a budget (I've set a budget of around $5k as a soft limit for now, but realistically I know not everything goes according to plan so this could change). Books I have: 1. How to Rebuild Your Nissan/Datsun OHC Engine 2. How to Modify Your Nissan and Datsun OHC Engine 3. L6 Engine Tuning - Nissan Skyline (Kenmeri-Hakosuka) Feare (Tatsumimukku PERFECT SERIES) (1997) * * I scored that last 1 on Yahoo! Auctions, the original plan was to use Google Translate to convert the text into English, well... it works kind of... but I don't think it will be as useful as I'd hoped. Unless I can find someone to help me translate to English. I have a work colleague in our Tokyo office, I might try and coax him into it someday . Or maybe a few of us could put some cash together to translate it via a professional service and then upload the translated PDF version for all to see? Last night I decided I would have another go at removing the Welsh plugs. I watched this video on Youtube. and decided I'd give the big screw driver and hammer method a shot (I was previously using a center punch and hammer) but that wasn't working). And they all came out relatively easily - just a few firm whacks and then use the vise grips to extract them. There is also a plug on the front and rear of the block. The rear 1 came out easily. But the front 1 won't come out this way. I think it needs to be pulled out due to how close it sits to #1 cylinder is that right? I was thinking I'd carefully drill a hole, tap it and insert a screw then leverage it out, suggestions are welcome. Oil Gallery Which brings me to the next step, I'll need to remove the oil gallery plugs. Is that the oil gallery plug? There seems to be a similar size on the rear also? So my next questions are regarding tap and die kits, for the S30Z what kind of kit should I get? Is there a big difference in quality of these kits? Any preferences you can suggest? Once it's tapped to about 10mm the how to rebuild book says to fit a pipe plug allen head bolt, but be careful it's not too long as it will block oil flow. How long should it be? Can anyone suggest where I could source the appropriate bolt from? *Disclaimer: I know next to nothing about bolts, fasteners, thread sizes, pitch etc.. it's all the black arts to me at this stage. Piston Options I have seen a couple of L-series pistons advertised on Yahoo! Auctions, for example here is some Kamerari pistons that look like they are designed for stock length L28 rods: http://www.buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/w108420559 I have no idea where I'd find a new set of rings for them, but obviously buying second hand pistons has it's own risks. Since this is a budget build I was tempted to bid on them. Thoughts?

By the way Len Brennan recently contacted me to say he was looking to do Engine Rebuilds for L-series engines again. Although he hasn't replied to my last PM he said he wanted me to put the word out that he's doing engines again. His profile on here is: http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=1396

http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?nav=item.view&id=111449101601&alt=web 5 speed knob almost OEM apart from red reverse letter. Not sure why it is like that. Still a good price.

Some cool footage of old Nissan Works cars and Motorsport history for the brand. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hvRpfwapeQg

Did you get 1 sorted? http://www.buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/w108633602 Says it is for a GS30 (2+2) - not sure about the mounts at the bottom I thought the seats had flat (not 90 degree) tabs. That's what she said!

Yeah the show actually contacted me through the website and asked if I knew of any good Z's they could feature on their show. I pointed them to Dimitri (Zedman240). http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=801 and the rest was history .

1976 Datsun 280Z Cruisin' The Coast 2013: I subscribe to Scottie DTV. Films some nice cars.

It looks like rare spares are in on it too now? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DATSUN-240Z-REAR-TAIL-LIGHT-ASSEMBLIES-RARE-SPARES-ADELAIDE-/331308846121

Well there is this on eBay right now. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,14766.0.html http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2x-Datsun-240z-project-cars-1971-and-1973-/261574001308 Perhaps the winning bidder will sell you the slightly bent 'black' car? I'm sure it could be set right again. Sadly anything that's as cheap as $2k is usually cut up for it's roof (if it hasn't been modified for a sunroof) and other good bits like 1/4 panels etc..they are usually pretty rotten (left in paddock's etc..). I'm guessing you want a RHD car because you're building a replica like a Fairlady 240zg or similar?

In North America it's the 1 market you can still obtain cheap S30z's, Europe, Australia, NZ and Japan etc.. prices have gone up for a RHD car. Of course no harm in asking, but you might be better of trying to source a RHD car in your neck of the woods. It's my understanding that certain military personal brought back their Zeds after serving in Japan due to cheap shipping costs via their military connections etc..

So in terms of lead wiping, here is how I progressed after the door was filled. Starting with a hand file, I used a combination of straight file, what's called a banana file (due to it's shape). I couldn't find an image on Google Search - I guess it's the kind of old skool hand tool that has become extinct these days. But I used the banana file to help dig out the inner section and give it that concave shape. Slowly taking shape... Looking the part now... To get the beveled edges as oppose to straight edges, I finished by hand with sand-paper. I wore a dust mask - since it was lead filings etc.. but it wasn't all that dusty in all honesty... Here is the finished product. As you can see it is a pretty seamless repair, considering what it looked like before. You'd never be able to tell it was touched up in this area and being that it's lead filled and in a high stress area (near door hinge) it shouldn't crack. Since (if you watched the video above) you'll note I didn't do the lead filing part for this section (just the filing down) I decided to give it a go on the underside of the door where we patched it up. After sanding down I was left with a rough edge around the repair. You would see this area of the door when you open the driver door (as it sits at the lower rear of the door) and whilst plastic filler was an option - since it would be very thin. I decided I wanted to try the lead fill and give it a go. Both the above photos show it's not finished yet, but almost there. I had to do most by hand due to the shape and complexity of this section. But lead wiping was surprising not that difficult provided you follow the instructions in the video above and don't get it too hot (when it gets too hot it melts to liquid), you want it just hot enough to turn it to chocolate / butter like and then use the 'bat' to smooth it out and spread it like butter around. It is more time consuming I'm guessing due to the sanding and shaping involved (probably the same with filler). But the overall result it gives it pretty much seamless and very difficult to detect repair in that area. As you can see in this Toyota 2000GT restoration, you can make old new again. http://www.studiotimecapsule.com/restoration_of_twiggys_toyota_2000gt I'm sure I'll be using lead wiping again in more areas like the bonnet I'll be doing in future. See thread: http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,14677.0.html and yes I'll be finishing that thread also detailing how I repaired the bonnet.

Yeah that shot of the engine bay from the top corner with the black valve cover and triples looks great. Considering what this car looked like a couple of years ago. I spy some FD RX-7 seats in there also. How do you find those in the S30z?

Budget? I might have a Fairlady Z Grill for sale shortly.

Hey Pete, Not brand new, but a second hand pair on eBay. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/240Z-wheel-cap-emblems-Nissan-Datsun/281427338010 Might polish up ok?

Is that Vivek's car? Looking sharp.

Yeah although I can't talk (my 72 240z is still not on the road) it would be great to see more Zeds out and about at events if at all possible, so really hoping we can get some numbers together for it.

Since I mentioned the earlier clock above ^^ I figure I should probably point out that there is a later style clock on there also. http://www.buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/g142745657