gav240z

I agree with the restoration bug aspect of it. Or they don't take them out in the rain haha. I'm kinda with you mate, getting up early on a weekend so a car can sit still for half the day isn't that much fun. I'd prefer to be going for a drive in it somewhere. I like going to a car show and seeing different cars on display but all the prep work leading up to the day is a bit tedious. I don't mind a couple of shows in a year but I wouldn't be interested in attending more than say 2-3 a year - I might change my mind when I've finished the Gold car though... I find a lot of the car shows are not that interesting to me, if it's something relevant and on topic like the recent Cars and Coffee in Victoria. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,14791.0.html I'd be more interested in those types of events, because they have more Classic Japanese Cars. I'm just not as interested in the Euro / US / AU cars - not being a snob as I do like certain cars in amongst those groups, but they just don't interest me (keyword there is ME) personally on the same level as the older Japanese stuff. Not just you, I get letters from time to time via the old email telling me about an event a week or so away. I think so long as there is notice and interest in the event you'll get people going down to show up. Of course winter months can be a little more difficult (especially in Mexico - where it rains more ;P) but even in Sydney we only had a few show up with overcast clouds etc.. It also helps to have a semi-regular or be consistent with the events so people can sort of mentally prepare for them. I think that is why the Christmas BBQ is so successful in Victoria.

Man if I owned where I live at the moment I'd definitely invest in a lift, gotta make life so much easier.

Sorry I'm confused, are you talking about the bumper or the front spoiler here? The main reason I asked is that the replica bumpers I've seen are not as sturdy or solid feeling as the original OEM ones. Not sure if that is the case here though? It certainly looks good in the photos and I quite like the rubber trim on the bumper (even if the 432-R's didn't have this).

By the way you'd be surprised how good those wheels could look with a good polish.

With regard to the engine smoke it could just be the valve stem seals. They harden up over time and can stop sealing out oil from leaking down the valves and into the combustion chamber. This happens if a car has been sitting for a while also. The seals themselves are dirt cheap, but you gotta remove the camshaft and tappets to get to them so labour is where it gets expensive. Do a compression test to see how healthy each cylinder is, if they are all good it could just be the valve stem seals, but a compression test usually doesn't tell you if the oil control rings are toast.

Is that a reproduction front bumper?

You realise your just getting old right? haha... Those damn kids! But I do agree, sorta, maybe, definitely maybe. actually I'm not sure...anymore...so confused....

Thanks guys, best thing to do is hit the 'report to moderator' (on right hand side of a post) link when you see spam and I'll get an email right away or Dimitri will and that's the fastest way to have it removed. The trick with anti-spam is to make it difficult for automated scripts (or in some cases some poor soul in a 3rd world country who's paid to work in a 'digital sweatshop and bypass anti-spam challenge questions) but not so hard is that it prevents newbies from joining the forum or posting their first post. That's always the difficult part. I think we don't get too much spam, maybe 1 post every second week? I'm ok with manually removing those. The amount of 'fake' accounts that get created and never actually validated is quite amazing. At some point I'll have to create a database query to look all these up and drop them from the database.

I like that look, the Gnose when done right looks superb especially with the type B lip on there. I've been contemplating fitted the ZG kit to my red 240z in Melbourne but still don't think I can hack the guards up for the flares. Perhaps I need a 3rd S30z ? Have you decided on a colour? Looking forward to updates if you go this route.

I wonder if that burgundy car is actually sporting that Aerodesu 240ZG nose? http://www.otomoto.com.au/p/4612851/aerodesu-datsun-240z-g-nose-5-piece.html It does look the goods. To be honest I think that is actually a good price. Will you run the flares and headlight chrome covers with it?

Or go to Bunnings and get off cuts of chip board cut to the size and shape of the crank and then use nails to create a small box for it. Shouldn't be very expensive and that was how mine was shipped with bubble wrap for added protection.

I see you already replied here? http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,14650.0.html If Gareth's is sold I may be able to help you source another, but shipping is gonna be expensive due to weight of the item and obviously being that it will be second hand it will be hard to guarantee it's condition is perfect without a machine shop inspecting it. I would guess it would cost around ~$1000 AUD - but could be slightly higher. FYI: Rebello racing is putting together some custom cranks (see video). However again shipping would be expensive on top of an already expensive item. Another option would be to speak to Peter Mac or Les Collins who may be able to provide something manufactured locally instead?

I see these on Yahoo! Auctions from time to time (Genuine OEM ones) but they are expensive and not always in great shape. 200,000 YEN + That's if you're looking for genuine. Otherwise I think there is a chap in Japan who replicates these for owners of original HS30-H cars - because Nissan hasn't made them or provided NOS for years. More good info in this thread. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,12491.15.html As HS30-H has mentioned: Marugen Shokai in Hokkaido, Japan make the best replica's. Fun fact of the day: The original was made by a company called: Kotobuki which were the same people who made the center consoles in the early S30z's Of course if you're going to stick it on a race car, then any old aftermarket part will do I guess

So a minor update on this door. The bottom corner had been bothering me since I patched it up with the MIG because the metal in that area was still so thin, I was worried it would rust out again. As a result I spent last week fabricating a new section. I was going to lob off that section and weld this 1 on. However after talking to the tafe teacher he said we could use the oxy to build up that area again. Here is how it looks after a bit of work with the oxy welder. Inside I'm not too concerned with how pretty it is, outside however looks a lot better than before. I realise some may find this a bit pedantic but in my mind I would hate to have the door start to rot out within a couple of years of a new paint job and have to revisit the area again. This way I'm pretty confident there is enough metal there to ensure it will be solid for years to come. Once it's painted it should be hard to detect and it won't be in an obvious place anyway. However every time I would open the door I'd be reminded of that area if it wasn't done right so that's why I spent a bit of time to get it right. Once it's painted and primed etc.. it should be time for putting the skin on - FINALLY!

Here's a tip, if the link doesn't work you can get the item ID from the URL. In this case the item ID is 301359382116 - just go to eBay and in the search box put the item ID and voila bob's your teapot.

Sold payment received..

Can you post photos of what you have at the moment? The trouble of finding another shell and hoping it will be better once stripped back might negate the cost of repairing what you have. Even if you have to pay someone to do some of the work.

Just thought I'd share the links to these PDFs here. 1. S30_C-235.pdf https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_tGt5V5rGDVczlUc0xJVXhOSWs/view?usp=sharing 2. S30_C-424.pdf https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_tGt5V5rGDVSzdvQnh6OXd4UzQ/view?usp=sharing

When a car like that doesn't make reserve first time around I think it struggles to reach that peak the longer it's on the market. It can get stigmatised as people start to think there is an issue with the seller or car itself that hasn't already been disclosed. The US still has the largest number of S30z's on the market, but even so low VIN # are quite rare to come across. I see a lot of early cars but always in the 1000+ build range. There isn't many of the very early cars left that's for sure. $12k AUD is still a great price for something that looks very much neglected. It may have not been dummy bids last time, keep in mind it takes 2 people to drive the price up. In this case perhaps the second bidder has dropped off? Anyway it will be back I'm sure as it didn't reach reserve again.

Good work mate, I need to take on my doglegs also. Did you have a peak into the rest of the sills to see if there was more surface rust in other parts?

Fair enough, that settles that then! .

Don't take it as the gospel but I've heard the last of the L28 blocks had more consistent blocks and often can be bored further out. After what engine number I couldn't tell you, but if yours was an 83 model it was probably 1 of the later blocks.

Ok so I received the plastic bases today in the post and decided to take more photos of these mirrors apart. Right Hand (Passenger Side) The nut on this side is non-standard, they usually have a flare behind them. I'm sure you could find a replacement zinc plated bolt at a hardware for Left Hand (drivers side) You can see nut here is slightly different. Some surface rust on metal bracket and washer that sits in cup / spring assembly. I didn't sand these or clean them up. Would rather leave it honest. Mirror glass. The original plastic bases I replaced. As you can see 1 side was cracked and missing the plastic dowel pin. I originally thought these would need zinc plating etc.. However as you can see they are actually in quite good shape and probably protected by the black plastic cup assembly. If you wanted 100% concours then yes I'd re-zinc plate the drivers side at the very least but a quick squirt of flat black would have these looking pretty decent. Certainly a lot cheaper than NOS.

240z door and bonnet. http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/welshpool/auto-body-parts/datsun-240z-passenger-door-in-good-condition/1059797169 http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/welshpool/auto-body-parts/datsun-240z-bonnet-1970-approx/1059797584

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/welshpool/auto-body-parts/datsun-240z-bonnet-1970-approx/1059797584 Looks like a good 1 from the photos.