gav240z

Same s30z maybe? 0-4Factory Hana's S30Z ~2013/11/2 Lメカ DRAG 最速 日本一…:

I reakon that is an L-GATA powered s30z too!

Think of all the years you spent doing rust repairs mate. I hope the new 240z is worth all that bloody and sweat.

O.S Giken Factory Tour

2 very short Z432 videos. 1. (you can just spy the 2 knob rally clock) 2. Much longer video of Z432 repairs. (~25 min mark you can see under the car)* *Note: Non standard looking floor-pan. Not that there's anything wrong with that of course.

Hi Guys, In a similar theme to the door skin tutorial thread, I am going to start a new thread on rear hatch repair. Given that most of the rear hatches will have rust by now and more than likely have had less than ideal rust repair done, simply finding a replacement is becoming less and less of an option. I've seen these early rear hatches on eBay / Yahoo! Auctions anywhere from $100 - $400 and even $800, but until you sandblast it you really don't know what you have and importing a panel and going through all that headache to find you have swiss cheese just wasn't an appealing option. So best make do with what's available locally I say. This will give you some insight into repairing the rear hatch and how I go about it at each stage, very much like the door skin thread. To emphasize my point about paint hiding previous horrors and botched repairs. I was quite surprised at how 'rust free' it looks in the photos I was sent before I had it shipped to me from a fellow member. Although this isn't my first rodeo so I knew there was a chance I'd find some hidden nasties on the way and under the paint and I in no way hold the member accountable for what I found underneath, it's likely he didn't know either. Not to mention the other 2 early S30z hatches I have are in worse shape than this. So this is still the best candidate I have to work with. First some photos of hatch #1. It looks like previous accident damage and bog was used to give the panel it's original contour and shape. Just sand-blasting this would take forever! Hatch #2 - Original hatch on the car. I'd say it's still quite repairable, it's had a nudge from behind and there is quite a bit of bog showing on the underside of the hatch near where the latch / catch mechanism is. So that leaves hatch #3 Before Last night I sandblasted it and found quite a bit of bog in the lower portion of the hatch. Can't say I'm shocked but from the photos above it looked like it was nearly mint and an easy repair, wrong sunshine! Although I have to say it's much better than the other 2 as a starting point and still a relatively good rear hatch with no signs of previous accident damage. Just botched rust repairs. After There was quite a lot of bog in the lower corners of the hatch. You can still see it in a couple of the photos above, it is a dark grey color so looks like the metal but it isn't. It took a lot of effort to remove with the sandblaster, before I got told off for abusing the sandblaster at Tafe trying to remove that much bog. So it looks like I'll finish the rest using paint stripper and a flap disc on angle grinder and if that's too slow I'll take it to a local blasters to use a harder media.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Z-Series-orinignal-Datsun-240Z-Series-I-Totally-Restored-1970-Low-VIN-/231389268988

Yeah, sometimes you just have to let people find out for themselves to be honest. We can re-iterate the point and try and drum it home, but people can be stubborn (yes I'm 1 of them sometimes) and either have the horse blinkers on or think they are smarter than the rest of us . My only concern with buying a restored example is just how well it was done. Right now in my humble opinion the best S30z on the Australian market is Adam's Brown Hornet. http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Datsun-240Z-1971/SSE-AD-3067352/ I would also say it's priced at an absolute steal, considering what it costs to build a car to that level. You can also rest assured that it's been correctly repaired in terms of body work etc.. and I realised I've probably gone on a MASSIVE tangent in a newbies thread. But hey... that's what you get for joining Auszcar haha.

Well the floor is what concerns me, if someone repaired it like that. It makes me wonder how the rest of the car was repaired. The paint is obviously quite 'fresh' looking and a lot of the common spots on these cars look quite rust free. My guess is that you'd find captain bog in quite a few spots judging by the quality of the finish, the fact that the fuel cap was painted - meaning the car was likely not masked off correctly etc.. It just says 'shortcuts' all over it. I have those photos because someone asked me for my opinion on the car. I think it's fair I include my assessment below also. Note: Photo numbers are out of order with how they are represented in this thread... Geez I should really charge for these assessments shouldn't I? To see how well botched repairs can be hidden see this thread. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,15125.msg160709.html#msg160709

Here is an interesting part, LY Crossflow Head, crank set up. http://page9.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/k178749410 Translation is:

Photos of aforementioned QLD 240z at $14.5k on Carsales. In my mind it could be hiding a few nasties. Judging by the floor repair (not the best quality welds are they?) As mentioned though, the auto is a moot point and an easy conversion. Try fixing that door alignment and then tell me how you feel about the slushbox.

hi call me 0n 0412254230 about the datsun. I don't think you read what I wrote carefully did you?

I have more photos of that 240z for 14k Sydney Mike posted. If people are interested?

So thought I'd share these photos of the 'Rally Clock' for those interested. This is why I outsourced this work. Sometimes you just have to accept someone else is the expert . Ron sent these photos when he received the clock, he said the clock wasn't working because of the incorrect gear used, the oscillator box works but was running slow and the photos above describe it's other problems. Overall it will cost a bit more to fix than originally expected. This is due to the butchery of the previous owner. I'm confident Ron can correct it though. With any luck the second clock is in better shape to begin with and according to the tracker service just arrived (to Ron) so will find out soon enough. I'll be sure to post 'after' photos also.

To be honest I don't think we're going to see too many more 240z's listed at 5k these days. Here is what 5k will get you though. http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/kardinya/cars-vans-utes/datsun-240z/1061920994 +1 to George's suggestion.

Around 7mins in you see what appears to be a Fairlady Z. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lYjqopN0Lp8 Not sure if it was a 432? Could have been.

Take a ride in a Z432 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ayTwyzWnhrk Wish there was more footage.

It was a fairly common dealer added option on S30z's in Australia. My first 240z. HS30 000151 They were not the best aesthetically, but the good thing about them is that they prevented damage to the bonnet and bumpers when fitted for all these years. From memory it bolted to the chassis rails at the front.

Mark can you take a photo of the rear side of this? Just wondering if the red R could be scratched off and done in white.

Where did you source all the door hardware from? I'll be chasing this stuff up soon also.

A Day with a Datsun 240z.

Honestly it went like this: "Hey wow, that's an early Z car number 89". "Some guy pretends to know something about 432 and 432-R's". "YO DAWG I heard you like Carbon Fiber, We can do a carbon fiber hood, carbon fiber bumpers, carbon fiber air-dam". "Your interior looks horrible dawg, so we hooked you up with some new interior trim and seat covers". "Let's cut the original OEM exhaust off the car and put a magnaflow unit on it". "Lets install petronix ignition, and remove your toilet paper oil filter". Now cut and polish original Safari Gold paint. Put 16" 'non period correct rims' on it, they look like retarded offset watanabe wheels. Take the car for a thrashing around the block, then do a quick (blink and you'll miss it) before and after. Wind up segment. I think it upset me that they said it was anything like the 432 or 432-R. I would have been ok if they said they wanted to make it a tribute in some way to the 432-R by making it light and adding carbon fiber, but no they made out like they were building a replica. More nonsense that didn't add up. 1. Guy is a motorcycle mechanic, yet never changed the oil or filter on his Z? I don't for a second believe the toilet paper oil filter was fitted to that car, seems like something they made up for the show to create a bit of 'sauciness'. 2. It was placed in the workshop with a wheel off as if to say he had abandoned the project and left it like that. Don't think so mate. 3. They worried about preserving a set of spark plug leads, but didn't care about destroying the originality of the car in other ways. 4. They perpetuated further myths about S30z's. Like early cars had different offset requirements on their wheels, the 432-R is just a carbon bonnet (didn't even mention the unique engine). 5. There was hardly any before and after shots of the car. It was very difficult to see if they actually made any improvements in the end. Overall watching it made me somewhat mad.

Like this?

Bump it up. Booked flights I'll be there.

That would be the last 1 I'd sell if it were me.