gav240z

Hi Guys, So it looks like I've got a spare block for sale (F54) / L28 block, this came out of my Safari Gold 240z. I had it sonic tested and it's only good for 1mm overbore. Just wondering if there is any interest in it? Preferably for pickup or somewhere local to Sydney I could drop it down to for a bit extra to cover time/fuel etc.. Listing at $100. If you want photos let me know, but it's basically a bare arse block. No crank, rods, pistons, sump, ancillaries etc..

Yeah I saw it when I dropped an L-block down to him, I remember seeing it and thinking it looks pretty original. Still has stock side mirror etc..

They don't look like 260z Hitachi Flat top carbs. They look significantly smaller. Yours look like they are off a 4 banger L-GATA. http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Hitachi_Twin_Carb See also here: http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php?topic=7168.0

Looks good, this thing wasn't sitting down at Stewart Wilkins workshop the other week was it? Seem to recall a 240z with stripes down there.

Bit of a prick, I don't like his method. If you get an offer and accept it then sell. Don't dangle it out there looking for a better offer. Looks like quite a bit of work in that.

To clarify I'm not hating, just stating that people should be careful with clone wheels, especially when there is clone 'Rota' wheels floating about now. I haven't had any experience with Rota wheels but it seems they are quite popular as a budget alternative, it's great that someone got free wheels etc.. But the amount of fake goods being churned out (usually in China) in order to convince people it's the real deal is what annoys me most. Just log onto the Alibaba.com website you'll see what I mean, you take your chances with that stuff. Unfortunately it also harms the business of legit business.Which I think is the biggest shame.

Shame to see our manufacturing industry being hollowed out.

Long time between drinks, but some progress (although it doesn't look like much) on the rear hatch in the last couple of weeks. You can see the lower edge has improved since the last photos where it was bent with pliers. This involved quite a bit of work with dolly and hammer. But to be honest it also involved a lot of mistakes on my behalf that were corrected or put 'more correct' by the teacher. The top edge where the outer skin joins the frame and the rear glass goes was also bent down using the same technique since it's a concave shape and you can't just use a folder to do this section. It was also 'dressed' up with a hammer and dolly and again I made a few mistakes. The edges where it curves were achieved using a metal stretcher/shrinker tool at the workshop. Notice how I haven't cut the holes for the vents or key hole yet? I'll do that once I've clamped it all down and scribed the underlying hatch where it will be cut. Don't want to cut it now then fit it and weld in place and find it's slightly crooked. Since it would definitely catch the eyes if that were the case. So we still haven't cut the hatch skin itself, and this new skin is sitting on top to get a feel for how it will all go together, but that obviously means it's not quite sitting how it will once it's been cut etc..

Not a bad interview... http://www.drivenews.co.za/2014/features/interview-wheeler-dealers-mike-brewer-ed-china/

72 240z on trademe.co.nz - Looks like original interior. http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/specialist-cars/other/auction-854593125.htm Paint looks like it's blistering.. Seller isn't a man / woman of many words... Currently at $18k NZD and 6 days to go...14 bids. Reserve met.

Afraid not, car is no longer for sale. Thread locked.

I've not come across any in my travels, but I'll keep an eye out.

Be a shame not to see you around here anymore if you sell up. Always liked your rust repair details.

Cool good to have them on the road isn't it? You forget how fun they are and the attention they grab.

By the way my 2 seated roof skin probably won't be used for a while yet. Looking at it I wonder how hard it would be to fabricate 1 up from a template. My guess is that the tricky bit will be the curvature around the drip rails. Or we could take it to rare spares and see if they can start popping them out like a toaster oven?

Hey mate would have locked this thread. See http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,15588.0.html

2 seater 260z advertised in bang a rat at the moment. Check out Gumtree. Be a shame to cut it up but for 2k you could make your money back selling sections off.. Maybe..

I'll try PM you later tonight I still have that steering rack, so I should drop it down to you and collect the shims at some point.

http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,2630.msg165867.html#msg165867 Owned by a little old lady

Nope, not blind at all. Thanks Mr Google (cache). http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:5sgsrcEAUHsJ:www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/glen-iris/cars-vans-utes/1976-datsun-260z-coupe/1073002997+&cd=1&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=au $14,900.00

I'm either blind or last night that car was listed around $14k - looks like it was revised? I also saw this 76 260z 2 seater shell for sale. http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/bendigo-3550/cars-vans-utes/1976-datsun-260z/1072921233 Description just says rolling shell....

By the way on the topic of door fasteners I found someone is producing billet style replacements for the dove tails which always break on early S30z's. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Set-of-Billet-70-76-Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-door-alignment-dove-tails-dovetails-/251767563037 Bit expensive though.

Hi Guys, So last night I was doing some panel alignment on my 240z for the inspection flaps relative to fender / relative to drivers door etc.. they are basically all connected which I'll document at some point. Anyway I created a couple of shims for the inspection flaps because there was already a couple being used and I was able to scribe and trace them out to make my own out of 1mm thick steel plate. Looking at my drivers door it sits a little bit lower compared to where the front fender body line does at the top of the door and it got me thinking that I'd seen those spacer plates that sit under the door hinge before (but I don't think my drivers door had any on it). I think this small change at the top of the door will also cause the lower rear part of the door to sit more inward (a small change at the top will have a big change at the bottom). But I need a template to copy this type of spacer / shim from or at least a photo of what these look like. A quick Google search revealed nothing but I did find the door striker shims which are similar. Anybody know what I'm talking about, have a photo of these or a set I could borrow to trace out myself?

Welcome, no idea about your central locking woes, but it should be relatively easy to remove it. Show up some photos of your new dream car.

In my opinion fake / rip off cheap Chinese junk is the worst of the worst scurge of the earth. Here is a video of fake vs genuine 'Weds' wheels. Not only is stuff made in china often of inferior quality but the factories that produce them often don't adhere to environmental standards or protect their workers. Just watched this video yesterday (which is long) but also worth watching. Going a bit off topic but it also shows how our coal and steel is used over there and the fact that their steel industry is propped up by government subsidies and now their construction boom is ending steel demand is low and is likely to remain low.... Watch out Aussie economy... To go back on topic though I don't know where Rota's are made (edit: Philippines so not sure how much the above applies?). But what I do know is that there are fake, Rota's. http://jalopnik.com/knockoff-wheelmaker-rota-warns-of-knockoff-rota-wheel-1137837262