gav240z

From the ad. Nothing like third hand anecdotal evidence eh?

280z and Jensen Interceptor Road Trip on Route 66.... Get your kicks...

By the way I found this the other day looks like a fellow Melbournian came up with a fix to his 240z Jeco clock. https://hyllest.wordpress.com/2014/09/28/quartz-clock-movement-into-a-240z-clock/ I haven't tried it yet, but might give it a go if I feel creative enough.

Thanks for all the replies and feedback guys, if it's 1 thing I'm not confident with it's electrical stuff on cars. I do recall some of the fundamental stuff I learnt in my Computer Science degree but it's always been my weakest skill. Programming I can do bit and pieces, mechanical work I'll figure it out and it's usually just using the right tools, body work I'm learning and getting better at, but electrical stuff apart from wiring up a car stereo I'm always a bit anxious about it all... Anyway in the end I went to JayCar (local electronics shop) and spoke to a guy there who suggested the AA battery set up as an easy way to go. I assume AA batteries are about 1.5V each x 8 = 12V. I wired in a basic glass fuse which was about 1/2 an amp (as recommended by Ron). Details and video of clocks to be found here. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,14206.msg165767.html#msg165767

No I'm not in Melbourne, but the g/f is away and it's given me bachelor time to work on the S30z a bit. Although I've got responsibilities of looking after the dog and mowing lawns (man it never ends). I honestly don't know how the blokes with kids ever get time to work on their cars. You guys must be super men! Anyway I went to JayCar and got some much needed bits and pieces to test out the clocks (safely). Because these clocks are so expensive I was a bit nervous about damaging them by just hooking them up to a 12V car battery. So what I've done is talked about in this 5 mins long video of waffle. I'm not sure if anyone else finds this stuff interesting, but I do and I talk about the calendar clock and compare it to the earlier rally version. You can't really hear the clocks though.. but the later Calendar style one is very quiet. Can't even hear ticking and to be honest with you if I wasn't such a stickler for 'period correct' I'd say the Calendar clock is as good if not better than the earlier ones. Much cheaper also... None of my original (4 of them) 240z clocks work, except for the 1 originally out of my 72 240z which ticks but doesn't keep time properly. Given that the lens bezel is a bit dodgy I'd say the previous owner tried to fix it at some point and may have managed to get it working a little. Shameless self promotion, but if anyone is interested in the calendar clock it's still for sale. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,15588.0.html

Good score...

Or more like this... 1973 Datsun Sunny Excellent 1400GX Coupe. I prefer the look of the rear lights etc... Too many interesting "Datsun's" but not enough garage space.

I kinda like it, minus the seats, sunroof, rear wing, air filter. The paint job is actually kind cool. Just put a set of JDM style wheels on it and lower it and bob's your tea pot.

Link to new ad. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/240Z-/161626090865

Just as an FYI I live right very close to these guys. https://www.carcareproducts.com.au/ I haven't been in to see them yet, but I think they recently opened in Melbourne also. http://news.carcareproducts.com.au/2014/04/15/melbourne_officially_open

Hey Rev, Hope you're health issues aren't serious? Did you weld the floor using the gasless MIG?

Not sure, I think the previous owner used to be around. http://www.viczcar.com/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=47 http://www.viczcar.com/gallery/displayimage.php?album=47&pos=27 http://www.viczcar.com/gallery/displayimage.php?album=47&pos=28 http://www.viczcar.com/gallery/displayimage.php?album=47&pos=31 That looks like it was before the current owner.

So to continue this tutorial and sort of cover the alignment aspect of the door I've got a bit more to add to this thread. I was anxious to fit the door handle and catch to see how the door would close in it's new aligned position. However when I went to fit the door handle I couldn't quite get the handle to fit into the holes in the door skin, it was a pinch too wide. Thankfully I kept the old door skin (even though I almost threw it out a few times it's become useful again), there's a lesson in that somewhere I'm sure. The lesson of course is don't throw anything away unless you really really have to. Using the old skin as a template I put it up against the new door skin. Then I traced out the difference in the size of these holes. Using a scribe I marked this out.. The main benefit of doing this now is I'll be less likely to chip nice and new paint later. Door handle fitted. The door remarkably shut first go, without adjusting the catch or striker etc.. As you can see the door alignment is pretty good, there is an ever so small gap at the bottom I'd like to fix but haven't quite worked it out yet. Excuse the dog tail, he wanted to be involved. Next I turn my attention to the top portion of the door, where the stainless trim sits below the window. The rare spares skin is actually quite a bit taller than the stock skin, presumably to allow for some adjustment. This is a problem for me though as it's causing the door to catch on the a-pillar with the stainless trim installed. Using the original skin again (see why I'm glad I didn't turf it!) I measure up a few different points along the door, it varies between 9mm and 12mm at it's longest as you run along the door toward the a-pillar. It actually has a concave like bend from the rear that straightens out. Where as the rare spares skin varies from 14mm all the way to nearly 25mm using the original as my template I scribe a line along the top edge of the door skin. If you can see the dimples above, that's where the spot welds are for the bracket behind the skin that gives it a more sturdy structure. The line for the most part sits above the spot welds. Thankfully. No photos of the next part but I used the angle grinder with a flap disc to slowly grind down the top edge of the skin, I was going to use a grinding disc but that would have been too fast and I'm glad I didn't because the flap disc too a lot of material off relatively quickly anyway. I haven't quite finished with it because I wanted to get close to the line and check how the stainless trim would sit, it's always easy to take more off, rather than add more metal later. After a bit of fettling about here is how it looks. and it comes really close to the a-pillar but ever so slighty (like a bee's phallic object) from touching. I checked the passenger side and it comes ever so slightly close to touching also, but there is a couple of mm more clearance, so I'll see if grinding down the to the line on the door skin helps with this and may make some minor adjustments. For some reason the lower door gap seems just a little bit better also, perhaps because the door can close just a tiny bit more than before.

Those hubcaps are horrid compared to the 260z style mags. They remind me of trash can lids. Case in point. https://www.google.com.au/search?q=Trash+can+lid&safe=off&es_sm=93&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=qiD4VJ7TGobk8gW6nYKYCQ&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAQ&biw=1366&bih=667 I'll bet my socks, that Mike Brewer bought a polished valve cover off eBay and when it's installed he will exclaim to Ed China "Wow that really makes the engine bay pop, yerrr much better than that dull cover. Ed you are a master mechaNICK (sic)".

I wonder what he said when he made a Gold Delorean? Even though they were not that great I still want 1. This was a good segment and gives some of the history on the company and the man. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3m-EdGJvRHc

From here. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/50923-wheeler-dealers-240z/ See eBay ad. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1972-Datsun-240Z-/321665301615 Good work sourcing those original hub-caps They didn't mention you'd have to shake Mike Brewers hand, that's a pretty big commitment. "Hold out yer hand fella, cause you just got a crackin' deal".

Good to know, so if the site returns a positive for a part no. that means they may not have it? For part no's you can also find them using these PDFs. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,12812.msg159366.html#msg159366

Someone made an offer they couldn't refuse I guess. I would guess 10K. I guess someone wanted an early S30z. No surprise...

Yep cutting holes in rear hatch should be simple enough..I'm fabricating an entire lower section of an early rear hatch due to rust and damage. I originally sourced a vented hatch, but it seems that was a rather futile thing to do as I'm cutting that hole piece out anyway. When I remove the 1/4 plastics in my early car I'll take reference photos of the badge area.

I'm interested in dog leg (if not taken) and rocker panel repair piece for RH sides.

Thanks for chiming in Luke, we all like to critique cars for sale so it's nothing personal. I do believe this car should have a vented rear hatch and it looks like the rear 1/4 panel was replaced with a later style version (with the circular hole). That's not a bad thing and I'm sure not unusual given the way these cars rust as we've all seen. It certainly looks like a solid starting point, far better than a lot of rust buckets that have been on the market. If you get a chance to upload more photos of what you mentioned regarding rust repairs etc.. please do so I think it will help your sale.

Odd it has tool boxes if it's an early car in other respects. My 72 has no compliance plate and it's never been an issue in terms of road worthy checks and registration. So I'm not sure if that's true. Interesting regarding your 71 and tool boxes etc.. Does it have the early console and other early features? In terms of that book, I'm really not sure how much I trust those numbers. We don't know much about how those figures were validated or where they originally came from. Although it wouldn't surprise me if we did only get ~300 240z's in 1970. You certainly don't see many for sale these days. Survival rate seems to be really really low.

RE: Number plates I doubt it, The FD RX-7 has the rear plate sit in the gap in the rear bumper here. In fact the NSW plate doesn't quite fit in this space because it's designed for smaller Japanese plates, so it's bent at the edges to make it fit. I've not had any problems with Blue or Pink slips. The big difference in NSW is that you require an annual 'pink slip' this is similar to the UK MOT tests that get done every year, you must have the pink slip pass result to re-register your car in NSW. For Anti-Pollution gear I think it comes down to how strict the inspector wants to be, but with old cars like this I think there would be a little more leverage. Might also depend on year of 260z?

Good to know, and just another reason I think the

Good pick up and I'm all for critiquing a car for sale, but without vents in rear hatch it's possible that the non-vented 1/4 panel is not the factory fitted 1/4 panel? The thing is I always hear this information that HS30 000500 was the cut-over point and from then the minor revisions occurred, but I'm somewhat sceptical because I've never seen any solid data to suggest this is the case. It seems to be S30z community folklore, I'd be interested to see who has the highest chassis number S30z that retains the early car features like hand-throttle, early console, rear vents in hatch, 240z C-pillar badges, solid steering wheel etc.. As a side note I do believe this car would have the vents in hatch and early S30z features...