gav240z

You're the reason I need to beat dents out of my floor pans... Damn Baby boomers.

Get a hat like this: a paint scraper like this: and a heat gun like this: and become an automotive archaeologist . Best place to look for original paint colour is inside the car, floors, rear boot area, firewall as those are unlikely to have been repainted.. Cuong might also know. I recall he said it wasn't originally 907 Green at 1 point but I could be wrong. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/user/100680-rb26dett/

Yeah I was thinking this morning, maybe call it off?

I suspect on Silver cars, the rear garnish panel colour was changed to offset against the Silver body paint...just something I've observed because it appears on Silver cars it's a darker almost black colour. My 73 240z was pretty original, not really messed with. Just missing the OEM Hitachi Radio. Photo attached.

Pretty much beaten this topic to death.. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/12178-datsun-greygray-paint/ Please start a new topic or reply in that thread for further discussions, let's keep this thread to a for sale post.

I'm a bit surprised with that 1, nice build but more of a resto-mod. A lot of the cars that have been hitting bigger money have been original examples. But yes another sign. I can't help but think there is a bit of a shift in the collector car community, away from exotics that are a fortune to maintain and require specialist care, more toward simple, tractable, reliable cars that can be enjoyed whenever the mood is right. Basically cars that can be easily maintained by the home mechanic without sophisticated tools or diagnostic equipment and are easy to work on. This may explain why early Air Cooled Porsche's are doing well, along with the Japanese stuff which in many cases is easy to tinker with but also dead set reliable..

Fairlady Z432 http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/14448-the-global-z-car-s30s130-market-thread/?p=178187 Auction ended at 27,000,000 yen which is around $359,100.00 in today's money. Not sure if it actually sold?

Paul your car in the UK can be seen here. https://www.facebook.com/FourwaysEngineering/posts/887210491349401

Hey Paul, Is it a factory service manual or another manual? If it's a factory service manual I'm interested in it.

http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/13773-early-girl-bingo-with-photos/

https://www.classicdriver.com/en/article/cars/it-too-late-buy-porsche-911-carrera-rs-27 I've talked with a couple of folks recently and noticed there is almost a 'panic' buying of S30Z's lately. I can't help but think maybe that car in the classic Japanese car scene was the Toyota 2000GT hitting the 1M mark, followed by the KPGC10 Skyline GTR and L10A/L10B Mazda Cosmo's hitting the 250K USD mark and more recently the PS30 Fairlady Z432's also hitting the 250K USD+ range.. Early Mazda R100 Coupe's exceeding $100K AUD and even KGC10 Datsun Skyline 240K's climbing over $70,000 AUD which has had a knock on effect on other early rotary coupe's (in Australia in particular) and the Datsun 240z and 260z's etc.... Interesting times.. who knows if it will be sustained?

Does it have an F54 block and P90 cylinder head? Should find it on the side of the spark plugs on the engine. P90 head was a turbo head, but was also popular for N/A applications because it's meant to flow better than the earlier ones. It's also got a better combustion chamber that's more resistant to knocking.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/231963719440?forcerRptr=true&item=231963719440 US $17,000.00

Yeah.. nah...

Thanks I was wondering the same, I think Oxy would be very hard without a LOT of skill... I am going to start learning TIG myself. Seems to offer a lot more heat control.

$400-$500 ?

I think it's had a bit of a rough life I'd go inspect it in person, get a good look underneath it and verify the 20K of monies spent on drive train work if possible. I was initially surprised it was for sale thing long given how quickly other cars have sold. So that may indicate a few things worth closer inspection.

Not easy to weld that up without distortion. Hat tip . In my opinion this kind of skill is under appreciated by many.. As someone who aspires to be this good I can appreciate how good this is. Of course you could develop these skills, it just takes a lot of time and patience and everything goes very slowly.

Mike asked me about what price to set this at before he put it up, I said I honestly get confused with all the differences between grille's over the years and mounting points. It's mostly confused by the fact that the North American market had those abhorrent bumper bar changes over the years and a lot of the information out there pertains to North American market cars. Of course looking in our parts manual (AU) was probably a good idea. It looks like it's just the lower bracket that is different on these? So could be modified to work in either model really.

Spent a little time in the garage lining things up, may be a bit overly fussy. Just looking at photos around the web, notice that the hatch sits a bit proud on this car and the lower edge of the hatch is slightly less thick than the 1/4 panel section. So I think even from factory they were not perfect.

Actually there is a few members here and we've had a few join recently too!

Yes that's right there was a 5.5j also. Although quite rare to find.

When I was importing my RX-7 from Europe I was told I could not put items in the car. The car must be free of 'stuff'. I am looking at options around putting stuff on a crate. Not looking to do this immediately just seeing if there is interest first.

- "If I get it right I can go through here and keep it flat. It's a bit of a worry but Moffat thinks I'm crazy doing it, but you can!" Gotta love Brock.

I believe early 1970 date stamped wheels are 4.5j and later 71+ are 5j