gav240z

No problem, if you have any questions please put them here in this thread. How bad are your door skins at the moment? I would first and foremost try and salvage the originals if at all possible as fitment will be better and less work later. However if you need entirely new skins might not be much you can do.

Hi mate, Yes I see a few sections I wouldn't mind for myself. Can you send me a PM with details and availability? Cheers,

Thanks yes it's strange alright. The hatch I repaired was never on this car. But it must have a taper at the bottom to have a consistent gap. *Edit actually thinking about it more, if you look at these photos of the original frame edges at the bottom of the hatch. You can see it's not as wide at the bottom. Originally I based my skin off the measurements I took from the paper template. But when I welded in the new corners I didn't put the cut-out in those corners because I didn't see the need for them. Since I was already folding on a straight line (the lip of the skin). But if I added those 'reliefs' I reckon I could have hammered the edge in a bit which would have made the gap more consistent. Too late now I think, but once it's painted I think the gap will be less obvious anyway, especially if I add a rear wing. The other possibility is that there is bog in the rear 1/4 panels. Won't know until I strip them back. But it doesn't look like it. The lower skin I made is slightly thicker gauge steel so that might also be at play. I am actually thinking of using the 432-R ribbed rear spoiler anyway, so the gap at the bottom will be less obvious with the spoiler over the top. Therefore I'm not too worried about getting the gap 100% consistent all the way. I will see what can be done, but I really need to move onto the next section if I'm to get this car done soon! I might source another hatch (with or without vents) and graft the vents into them, so I've got 1 rear hatch with rear spoiler and 1 without. I want to run the vertical defrost glass also. Although not strictly AU spec (optional as far as I can tell).

Thanks, closest car I have on record is the ex Edward Lees car HS30 00695.

Thankfully I don't see that catching on as a trend. Glad it's a 280z and not an early 240z though!

That 912 video was 1 of the best so far, and the Easter Egg was getting some S30Z's in there too!

I had a go at this last night, I did the left hand side. Which had a larger low spot than the right side. I used my DHC 2000 Cobra Torch which came with the attachment needed for doing lead wiping. It still look a bit rough because I had just started to file it down. I was going to use regular filler on the right side, but now I think I might just go the whole hog and do both sides with lead. I am also thinking I'll use it on the underside for a low spot where I joined the new metal in the edges and I might use it along the fold where it joins the original metal. The new piece I made was a thicker gauge steel and if you look at the side of the hatch you can see the metal is thicker, I am thinking I'll use the lead to taper off the join so it's less obvious. I really want to get this thing into epoxy primer soon though! Really want to move onto the next panel, either bonnet or rear slam panel / valance section. Also attached the right side for comparison (I very slowly and carefully used a finger sander to file down the weld more level).

This mob that does reproductions. http://klearz.com/240z_turn_signal_lenses Also supply hardware. http://klearz.com/240z_turn_signal_hardware Not quite OEM, but don't think anybody is going to be inspecting these at car shows for authenticity.

http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-scarab/ Before conversion. After It will be interesting to see what it finally reaches price wise.

Figure this would be of interest. Elvis' old BMW 507 is restored. http://www.foxnews.com/leisure/2016/08/05/elvis-presley-rare-bmw-507-rediscovered-and-restored/ Why thank you very much! I couldn't help but think the Chevy V8 is oh so typical... That's why you don't cut up classic cars!

http://page9.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/k223883101 S30-00806 Buy it now price: 6,000,000 yen (~$81,000 AUD at today's rate). Pretty sure it's a Fairlady Z-L (Has Rally Clock). I'll add photos and more details later.

The Internet is great, but it's also horrible. There is always another deal that comes along to tempt you to jump ship. But the grass is always greener I find and you end up inheriting someone else's problems. I think it's best to stick with what you have and spend the money on your current car getting it up to scratch. That way you know the panel and paint work will be done correctly and you can decide on what kind of powerplant you want. In the beginning of my project I wanted to do EVERYTHING myself, I soon realised that the idea was good in theory but a furphy in practice. You think you'll save money but in reality often materials, time and having to do something twice means you don't save money. Also your time can be better invested in other areas that help move the project along. So now I pick and choose what I will and won't do. Honestly the easiest way to build these cars is throw money at it. I find I'm the biggest drag on the project getting done. The other advantage of building your own car is you can spend money as you earn it, rather than forking it out in a lump sum to buy a car already done. I find these days the costs are secondary, so long as I see progress being made I'm happy.

I would try Warren at All Z Spares in Hornsby NSW as your first point of call. He seems to have NOS for a range of old Nissan's. But may not be the easiest to transact with from feedback others have posted here.

NOS tail lamp set you can see the grey colour on the garnish + licence plate lamp.

Haha, the missus and I binge watched the whole first season over the weekend. It's a good series so far, despite taking lots of ideas from other films in the 80s. I do wonder where it will go in season 2.

I split the bonnet and frame on HS30 00150, but it had some minor damage on the leading edge from a light front end nudge. Still trying to decide if I should look for another bonnet or repair existing 1. I think I'll try find a straight bonnet first, if that doesn't work out I'll repair the 1 I have. Either way I'll hang onto it as it's getting harder and harder to find a good bonnet.

RS30 000467 - That's a pretty early 260z 2 seater. So definitely a 1974 model. Impossible to tell you what it will need for roadworthy, probably rust repairs, probably a lot of neglected items too! It's in a bit of a state alright. But it does look tired and honest as opposed to messed about with. Not a fan of the speakers holes being cut into the rear storage box area. It obviously had a late 80s/early 90s radio fitted. Good luck, I'd bank on 7-8k worth of work to make it roadworthy.

Paint technology would have been worse back then too remember! Just like the Vacuum chrome for the interior plastics, even NOS parts often don't look so good and have aged on the shelf poorly.

Actually you might be correct. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/rear-axle-drive-shaft 53 ORNAMENT-ROAD WHEEL Part no. listed as: 40343-N4700 It could be an updated part no. or it could also explain the detailing difference. Maybe for the Black Pearl Edition they did some specific detailing differences? http://community.ratsun.net/topic/34467-what-kind-of-wheels-are-these/?p=526679

As far as I'm aware there is only 1 part no. for the caps. 40300-N3200 - I've seen a couple of sets on Yahoo! Auctions recently and they all had the Blue Center, I didn't see any gold. From what I recall mine were so faded blue they looked grey by the time they came into my possession. I recall chipping out the 'blue' section as it had cracked and all that was left was the white Z in the middle. Also on the rear the little fingers that hold the cap to the hub would break off from being fragile old plastic. The sets I saw for sale on Yahoo! auctions sold in the $200-$300 range and were not 'restored'. Just in good shape for their age. I'd restore the ones you have and wouldn't worry too much about the exact detail differences you see.

Hard to get now, they were popular on later Fairlady Z's also (the wheels). http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/15018-260z-alloy-wheel-40300-n3200-caps/ I was looking for some for a couple of folks in the US of A. The wheels are easy to find, but the caps are more difficult. I'm pretty sure the centers were Blue with white Z. Old Man Z - Had his caps restored. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/12294-my-75-260-22-baby-girl/?p=159425

Which car do you like better? Buy that 1.

I've been binge watching Stranger Things...in terms of 80s references check this out. https://www.google.com.au/amp/www.vox.com/platform/amp/2016/8/5/12380080/stranger-things-80s-spielberg-references-video?client=ms-android-google

The only way to truly get what you want is build it.

That car is now wearing earlier tail lights, because they are the best and everyone knows it!