gav240z

Fairlady 240ZG http://page12.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/p526656242 9,600,000 YEN. Or ~$130,000 AUD

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Datsun-260z-RARE-5L-V8-manual-NSW-suit-240z-BARGAIN-PRICED-TO-SELL-/232096073524?hash=item360a010734:g:mlgAAOSwLF1X6f0Z AU $9,900.00

I spoke to Alan today and should be sorted. Thanks anyway.

Thanks Alan, I'll be in the US late October also so may find a set over there with a friend who is a hoarder of Z parts.

Yep I tend to be the same, only buy it when I need it. In some cases though I buy if something comes up and I know it's going to be hard to find another. The "DATSUN" door sill kick panels are actually quite hard to find now in NOS shape because in Japan they were just plain and unbranded from memory (no Datsun's over there). I think I'll have to polish mine up because finding more is going to be hard and they are the sort of item that receives abuse anyway.

I ground down the welds on my rear hatch (mig welder). We used a mig because we couldn't get access to the rear of the panel so oxy wouldn't work well in this scenario. The weld sunk in a little. But I grounded down the weld with a linisher (finger sander). http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/12698-rear-hatch-rust-repair-a-detailed-guide/?p=179500 Just be really careful and use the trigger to go slowly as it will file down the metal quickly. You can also use hand files as a way to remove material slowly if required. In this case I used lead fill over the top (just personal preference over plastic filler / bog).

Damn, I wanted a decent pair for the front. Got the rear's already. Not to worry..

Alan are they front or rear bumper overrider bars? They look like front. May also be interested in windscreen actuators. Just need to check if someone I know needs these.

This really does look like a great fit and finish. I particularly like the twin exit exhaust, do you have any videos that capture the sound this system produces?

A good panel beater / welder would weld the panels in such a way that there would be very little distortion or excess weld to grind off. It all depends on the type of welder used. Mig usually leaves a build up of material that will need to be ground down. On the other hand oxy doesn't. You will want to grind the weld down as smooth as possible, but be careful you don't grind the metal too thin also. You really don't want to make it thinner than the surround material. Whacking and bogging is not exactly a great technique in my opinion. The good old boys may file finish to get a uniform finish, but a lick of filler is acceptable also. You won't cause distortion grinding down the welds unless you're super heavy handed. It's the heat from welding that distorts panels usually.

Gotta be quick when those come around... I would have bought it myself if I wasn't trying to buy a house.

And someone just did, congrats..

Hit the buy it now or regret it for the next few years.

Yep I missed that when I approved it, please list a price.

I've got a few but not all in good shape. I'm trying to make good sets out of them. Some have broken lids, missing parts etc..

I like how Jake put you up to all this, as if you were protesting all the way through it haha.

Like Billy Squier says "Give me the stroke". If you have an L28 crank, rods and pistons. I don't see why not. I doubt you'll notice a massive difference in the response from the engine. A lot of the difference in my opinion comes down to cam specs, flyhweel (rotating assembly) and ignition timing / advance. Personally I'm going to follow along this path. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/1738-l26-refresh-thought-id-share-the-results/

I wouldn't chop up a genuine 1, I'd leave it 4 door. I assume the car that was modified wasn't an original GT-B. Article on the GT-B here. https://www.tradeuniquecars.com.au/feature-cars/1503/1964-prince-skyline-gt-b-review

Just another reason NOT to buy Techno Toy stuff... Kevin San of JNC fame said this.

Price Skyline GT-B http://page17.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/v472623175 1,301,000 yen 2 days to go.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/322269598946 I've bought stuff off Greg before, if you like I can ask him for a buy it now option?

Sure thing Tony, I've got 3 or so in the US I'll be collecting in October/November. I have to check if they work or not. I spoke to someone in the US who restores them but he didn't think it was worth separating the circuit board from the chassis to re-plate the housing but I disagree . A friend of my mum's is retired now but he used to fix old Television sets and electronics back in the day and now works on restoring electronics of vintage BMW's here and there. I was going to ask him to maybe go through them (depending on what works and what doesn't etc..). I was also in Newcastle the other week and stopped into an Antiques store (got their business card at home). Anyway along the back wall of this shop was all these old radio's. I got excited but then when I got close to the wall it had a sign that said. None of these radio's are for sale. But.. apparently a guy comes in and will repair vintage radio's. So I asked about car radio's and the lady there said it's a possibility. Unfortunately no phone number, no email address, no website. You just gotta go down there with the part and talk to him in person. Proper old school. So I have a few options if a couple don't work to try and repair them. My plan is to get them looking as new. https://goo.gl/photos/sXHcEMFqGQPd3K5ZA

I just missed out on this 1. (I bid $569.99 lol) and someone beat me to it. No damn Antenna switch either! But I've got a couple spare I think. http://www.ebay.com/itm/302073644262 I've got about 3 surplus TM-1081ZB(S) radio's. I plan to restore them and offer them up for sale at some point. Will need to order some more Faceplates etc.. Just an option if nobody else has 1 for sale.

Justin, you could get your engine built over here and shipped back to you in Malaysia. Les Collins has been building engines for clients around the world. They are helping me build my engine and I'm not doing anything fancy with mine.