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I'm confused about the belts. Factory belts were THREE point, lap and shoulder sash. The shoulder belt runs from the quarter pillar and through the loop on the sill, then across your lap. The tunnel side belt meets half way on the lap. Are you going to fit aftermarket inertia reels and only use TWO points, or have I misunderstood...??? Doors were adjusted at the factory with specially shaped shims, as were the inspection flaps and tailgate. Factory parts list diagrams/schematics and factory service manuals tell you pretty much all you need to know about how to reassemble the door furniture and door glass, as well as how to adjust it all properly. Have you not got any factory literature? I consider it essential reading and reference. Skimping on the cowl locating tab bushes is a poor decision. They are The Right Part in The Right Location, cost next to nothing all things considered and do the job FAR better than bits of rubber hose. What are you thinking?! Maybe it's the heat that's making it worse, but you're starting to cut too many corners and your impatience and frustration is palpable. You have a BIG audience at your disposal via all the forums you are posting this vlog to and many of the people watching have done it all before you many times. Why not ask for advice/tips, do and don'ts, component checks and even scans from relevant factory literature BEFORE you embark on each section? When I was watching you messing around with the front brake calipers I almost spit my tea out at the screen in wanting to tell you that you were using 260Z hubs (and 260Z struts) not 240Z type, and that's why you were getting offset issues. A quick peep in the FSM or FPM would show you the difference between the hub types, and explain why the calipers were not fitting. Come on, ask us! And by the way, don't worry about your seat belts killing you. Your roll hoop will do that first...

Hi guys, After a long search I finally picked up a 260z 2 seater around a month ago. The car is a 1974 build with 01/75 compliance. modifications include a L28 engine with n42 head, bored and stroked to 3ltrs with a mild street cam. 240z 3 screw carburetors, extractors and 2.5 inch exhaust, electronic ignition and a manual conversion with a 71C 5 speed. so far since owning the car it’s had a full once over by the Z shop in Burwood and a set of bumper rubbers installed and just has a few minor things needing to be addressed. At this stage the only plans I have are to return the tail light panel to its factory colour and put the car onto club rego. A bit about myself. I’m a 23 year old university student studying physiotherapy and the Z has been a long time dream for myself that I finally managed to save enough money for (even if it did mean downgrading the daily driver). I’ve always been into cars and I was that annoying 5 year old that could name every car that went past and my love for Japanese cars started around 10 years ago. The shape of the S30 was always a winner for me and while I’m no expert I like to get my hands dirty and learn as I go.

Hello all, I have finished restoring the last of the parts and I have re skinned the dash so I thought I would show you a pics of them.

I never got a reply back from them and I’m in the middle of changing brakes so I haven’t chased them up. Either way I’ll DIY as I can control the $ a bit more. I’m still thinking of going the bilstein inserts and custom rate king springs on standard perches. I don’t need height adjustment or any fancy stuff. Offset bushings and roll centre spacers do all I need.

Some restored parts ready to go.

From the 80s when the Marque Sports Cars category was at its best. Lindsay, Alan Fields, Neil Cartledge and Burns fighting for the podium at Phillip Island.