diy) pumping guards

[singhy]

Just wondering if anyone has done this and how they went around doing it?

 

I don't really think that flares suit a 2+2 260z that much (anyone one got any decent pics of a 2+2 with flares anyway??) , so I thought an inconspicuous guard pumping was in order hehe.

 

anyone got any before/after pics?

 

PS; Im not talking about guard rolling (literally pumping the guard out like a cm or more if possible).

 

thanks

[Six_Shooter]

You want to do what?

[nizm0zed]

you could possibly do it with the front, but the rears are double skinned, so you would only get the lip edge out a tiny bit.

Either way, you WILL crack the paint off.

If you wanted to do it, you'd really need to graft more metal in there, and you'd wanna be DaVinci with steel to make it look good.

[C.A.R.]

It can be done on the rear (After you have lipped the arch) with the bottle jack & a heat gun,

BUT if the car is painted you run the risk of cracking the paint.

I have done it a couple of times with success, however.

 

10mm/side is really stuff all in terms pumping the arches - how wide is the wheel/tire combo you want to run?

 

 

 

[luvemfast]

Flares - no suit 2+2 you say?

Have you seen this car?

[mossy]

Thats the pic I was thinking of too, I'm not really into 2+2's but that one looks great!

[Ledge]

Hi

Go the bolt ons mate, everything looks good with bolt ons

even a..... gulp Z31 , yes i said it a Z31

 

 

[singhy]

It can be done on the rear (After you have lipped the arch) with the bottle jack & a heat gun,

BUT if the car is painted you run the risk of cracking the paint.

I have done it a couple of times with success, however.

 

10mm/side is really stuff all in terms pumping the arches - how wide is the wheel/tire combo you want to run?

 

i forgot to mention that the car is bare atm, i thought it be best to get it all rolled/pumped before paint...

 

yeh i was thinking just a jack and a bock of wood and heat gun...

 

have you done yours?

 

and for wheels im not exactly sure but they will be wide!, ive got a set of veilside andrews at home that i may put on which are 10inch rears.

[singhy]

Flares - no suit 2+2 you say?

Have you seen this car?

 

if guard pumping doesnt work properly/doesnt make the car wide enough then i may put some flares on, but smaller ones if i can find any like an inch or so .

[Ledge]

If its bare then start beating.

Draw a line on the panel where you want the top of the flare to stop

Hit that in a bit with a cold chisel or something simmilar

unpick the inner and outer

hit hit hit hit hit hit hit and when you think thats enough

hit hit hit hit hit hit hit

 

We put 17 x9.5 under an mgb so cant see you haveing any trouble.

Oh i hope you can panel beat.

[C.A.R.]

10"?!

You'll need flares...

[dat2kman]

Fronts are easy.

Remove whole guard, elongate all mount holes or drill them bigger, say 3/8 or 1/2 inch,

Including the ones under at rear of guard where bottom edge of doors are.

Refit guard, fit all bolts at just finger tight

Using a two mates, two jacks, and shaped wood pieces, ie no square edges on wood at corners,

Slowly jack out, you want to pisition jacks at 10 o clock and 2. O clock, wood to come up and meet at 12 o clock.

Slowly jack out.

You will get big panel gaps,  tighten all mount bolts

Presto you just got 15 to 20 mm on fronts.

 

Rears are harder.

Get under neath, drill out spot  welds holding the inner skin to the outer skin at the lip, all way around.

Cut away approx 4" of the inner skin, use a 4" angle grinder with a slit wheel., use jacks, wood and mates, but, you will need to brace and hold the pumped rear  outer skin in position.

Use strips of steel, 2" wide 6" long bend and fashion to suit.

Once these are holding in place, remove jacks and woods

Fashion up new inner skin, you do not need the reversed upside down hump, tack in with MIG.

Slowly tack all inner guard back in. MIG it 30 mm here, 30 mm there, alternate, move around, let it cool down, so it doesnt heat buckle

You will be left with a up to 2O mm pump, and stock lip.

It will crack paint.

[dat2kman]

If its bare then start beating.

Draw a line on the panel where you want the top of the flare to stop

Hit that in a bit with a cold chisel or something simmilar

unpick the inner and outer

hit hit hit hit hit hit hit and when you think thats enough

hit hit hit hit hit hit hit

 

We put 17 x9.5 under an mgb so cant see you haveing any trouble.

Oh i hope you can panel beat.

And a five stud wheel conversion, and big brakes!

Dusint matter, my little four cylinder Datsun convertible would still nail it!

[Ledge]

And a five stud wheel conversion, and big brakes!

Dusint matter, my little four cylinder Datsun convertible would still nail it!

 

Ha Ha

And supercharger 1UZ

And IRS

 

PS I F###g hate MGB's

[Ledge]

Geeez

I think i just shut Jason up  ;D

;) ;)

[MaygZ]

Would it not be easier to weld on a flare than stretch the existing so far.  Surely stretching it that far will make it both thin and brittle?  I reckon it would be better, stronger and easier to build the shape you like and then weld it to the existing guard.

 

My 2c

[thriller]

Like this!

 

[dat2kman]

Geeez

I think i just shut Jason up  ;D

;) ;)

Nup, even better, it has a lead weight in the front end!

My thing'd still cream it!

 

[Ledge]

Damn Jason,

Thought i got you then.

;D ;D ;D

[luvemfast]

Geeez

I think i just shut Jason up  ;D

;) ;)

Impossible!

He's just off riding his unicorn.......

[Agno]

PS I F###g hate MGB's

Quote of the day goes to this Gentleman!

[singhy]

Fronts are easy.

Remove whole guard, elongate all mount holes or drill them bigger, say 3/8 or 1/2 inch,

Including the ones under at rear of guard where bottom edge of doors are.

Refit guard, fit all bolts at just finger tight

Using a two mates, two jacks, and shaped wood pieces, ie no square edges on wood at corners,

Slowly jack out, you want to pisition jacks at 10 o clock and 2. O clock, wood to come up and meet at 12 o clock.

Slowly jack out.

You will get big panel gaps,  tighten all mount bolts

Presto you just got 15 to 20 mm on fronts.

 

Rears are harder.

Get under neath, drill out spot  welds holding the inner skin to the outer skin at the lip, all way around.

Cut away approx 4" of the inner skin, use a 4" angle grinder with a slit wheel., use jacks, wood and mates, but, you will need to brace and hold the pumped rear  outer skin in position.

Use strips of steel, 2" wide 6" long bend and fashion to suit.

Once these are holding in place, remove jacks and woods

Fashion up new inner skin, you do not need the reversed upside down hump, tack in with MIG.

Slowly tack all inner guard back in. MIG it 30 mm here, 30 mm there, alternate, move around, let it cool down, so it doesnt heat buckle

You will be left with a up to 2O mm pump, and stock lip.

It will crack paint.

 

 

thanks this is definetely be the best way ive seen or heard of so far, when i get to stripping the car (bout a fortnight or so) ill give it a go and see how it comes out, cheers

[singhy]

Like this!

 

 

hahaha, ill go get me sledgehammer lol