A Zed is Reborn - MaygZ Folly

[Roberto]

Is that MR2 rears for the front and rear of the Zed?  ie 4 x rears?  or do the rears take a different insert?

While I'm asking Q's, the bump stop that sits inside the spring at the top; where can I source these and what is the preferred material?

 

The MR2 rears and only for the 240Z sectioned fronts.  For the sectioned rears you can either use 240Z front inserts or as I did 240Z rear inserts and cut 25mm off the aluminium spacer at the bottom of the Tokico strut insert.  I don't think other brands of 240Z rear inserts have a spacer, so you just use fronts. 

 

As for the bump stops, you can use rubber or PU.  I used PU from the energy kit.

[chris240]

Im running a mix of yellows, 300zx and corollas.

Also talk to the guys at Toperformance if you need a 2nd opinion.

[MaygZ]

Well had a day off today so thought I would strip and prepare the rear struts.  The best laid plans, eh?

 

Spent nearly all day just getting the spindle pins out.  The first one came out reasonably easily - the second however .....

 

Finally got it out, but it's now another drift!!  I'll get some new ones.

 

Tomorrow I'll get into cleaning up the rears.

 

MaygZ

[Riceburner]

Hehe. I feel your pain, damn spindle pins can be one of the nastiest jobs on a Z. Good thing is you shouldnt have to do them ever again!

[Zedman240®]

Make sure you lube the new ones well..mine came out with minimal force (and some cursing)

[luvemfast]

Well had a day off today so thought I would strip and prepare the rear struts.

You know you can prepare your struts with your clothes on right?

[MaygZ]

Make sure you lube the new ones well..mine came out with minimal force (and some cursing)

 

You know you can prepare your struts with your clothes on right?

 

 

lmao

[MaygZ]

Well some small progress has been made.  My inserts have been delayed and will be posted from the US on 26/10.  Until they arrive I won't be sectioning the struts.  Purchased a front and rear coil over kits from Ben (Ozotomo) - very happy 

 

Took a while to work out how to paint the bare struts and very happy with my problem solving skills (much better than my photography skills - sorry).

 

Cleaned up and painted the old strut tops and then realised they wont work with the coil overs 

 

What are people using to mount the tops of their coil overs?  Where did you get them and how much were they and did they fit easily (ie not your standard "bolt on")?

[Sirpent]

About time you pulled your finger out !

 

I just found a job for you on the 17th 

[Riceburner]

I used the stock tops(insulators) with the KKR  tapered spring retainer underneath.

 

These are from bens 240K build, I set mine up exactly the same but used the standard strut tops instead of the adjustable pillow ball type which are on the ground next to it.

[Zedman240®]

I removed a fair bit of metal/rubber from the original strut top so the bearing and the alloy top hat all fit together and rotate without the aluminium top hat fouling the original strut top.

[MaygZ]

OK, so my Koni yellows have arrived.  Tip for young players:-  you need 2 x pairs of Z31 fronts NOT front and rear Z31 

 

Before I start cutting struts; the bodies of the Z31 inserts are 363mm; the old fronts are 387mm and the old rears are 420mm.

 

My maths says fronts are 24mm longer and the rears are 57mm longer.  My question- does that directly translate as sectioning 24mm out of the front struts and 57mm out of the rears?  Will this make the rears too short?  I don't have a weighted car (ie a full car) to lower onto them to measure.

 

I was looking at putting the sleeves on 100mm from the ORIGINAL height top of the struts.  Is this what has worked with others?

 

Thanks guys

[MaygZ]

Take 24mm out of the fronts & 24mm out of the rears.

If you take 57mm out of the rears, you'll end up with the arse of your Zed dragging on the ground - i.e. the ratio is not equal front to back.

Don't forget to take into account the thickness of your cuts in the overall measurements.

You'll need to pack the bottom of the rear inserts up inside the tube as well, (use an appropriate length packer) to make the insert sit hard against the gland nut.

75mm for the front - 50mm to 75mm for the rear.

4 welds equally spaced apart top & bottom, 10-15mm long each.

DON'T fully weld them on...

 

Thanks Lurchos.

 

Well I had a go at the fronts.  Pretty happy really.  Just took my time - measured lots, cut once they say.  I ground back angles on the cut sections to get better penetration.  I left one of the old shockers in while I welded them together - and kept turning it to help prevent me welding it in the strut.  Gave them a lick of primer.  I'll attack the rear tomorrow.

[Zedman240®]

Looks good Simon, now paint them a nice bright green or something shocking...

[MaygZ]

Well just finished night shift and the whole world stops while I'm on night shift 

 

I've finished sectioning front and rears and thanks to Red76z's post, I reshaped the rear stubs to take the R31 brackets

http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,9487.15.html

 

Now they are all ready to weld on the sleeves.  Assemble them, attach brakes and put in cupboard (they are promoted to inside parts  ) and start on something next.

 

Suggestions on what to start next?? 

 

Thinking brake master and booster.  They are just a clean, kit and paint.  About an hour's work.  I should have them done in a month 

[Scoota G]

If you're on a roll then stick with it but if you are feeling like motivation is lacking take a different angle and tackle another job. Mix it up for increased interest or teach the build who is Boss. I use both tactics 

[Zedman240®]

By some reconditioning paint (Flat or satin black spray can) and get started on the arms, radius rods, diff and anything else that will be bolted underneath the car..

[MaygZ]

It's not all motivation Scoota.  I'm on a roll and loving it.

 

I build up some funds to start something and then it's all gone when I finish.  I have to build up some funds again.  So I look for something that's less expensive to work on.

 

Gotta sell my rear shockers so I can afford new front inserts.

 

I also have to keep in mind that if I start pulling lots of parts off the parts car, I have to find a way to transport them all when I move back home (soonish  )

 

By some reconditioning paint (Flat or satin black spray can) and get started on the arms, radius rods, diff and anything else that will be bolted underneath the car..

 

That's something I'm part way through Dimitri.  I was using a gloss paint.  What is this 'reconditioning paint' of which you speak?

[Zedman240®]

Its the same paint some dodgy auto elecs use to "reco" alternators and starter motors; but they use a special silver paint to give it that recoed look.

[C.A.R.]

Front coil-over sleeves are TIG welded on

 

 

Rears tomorrow night...

[Retro Z]

Want to do another 2 sets Lachie? One for me and another set for Freddy?

[C.A.R.]

Sure - PM me, Tai

 

Rears:

[MaygZ]

Noice!  Thanks Lurchos.

[MaygZ]

Hi everyone.  I'm still alive.

Well my time at Bairnsdale has ended and I've moved back to the farm.  This means the Zed has come home again.  I just might have the record for the most k's traveled by a Zed on a rotisserie (approx 750 km's).  If not, this weekend she's being loaded up again and travelling the 200 k's to Lurch's.

 

Lurch is going to do all the welding that has been scaring the shart out of me for the past 3 years.

 

I know I should be a lot more like Scoota and just have a bloody go, but I'm a chicken.

 

So she's having a holiday in 'The Valley' and will come home feeling a lot more complete.

 

I'm VERY excited 

[reverendzed]

Awesome news Simon, glad you are back at the farm - catch up soon for a beer?

cheers,

Rev