L28 engine rebuild DIY

[mossy]

OK guys I was going to get my L28 engine rebuilt professionally but I'm now seriously considering doing it myself, I would outsource getting the head done but pretty much was thinking of trying the rest myself. Has anyone here built a performance L series themselves that hadn't tried anything on that scale before?

 

My build would be along the lines of this

L28 F54 standard bottom end

N42 head ported with stainless valves

72 or 74 cam

ARP head, main and rod bolts

engine balanced(can't do this myself)

triple 44 mikunis

lightened flywheel

 

thats a rough guesstimate so far for a weekend driver occasional track day car, I've got to read the datsun rebuild and performance books some more, any advice appreciated.

[luvemfast]

L28 F54 standard bottom end

Why not Flat top pistons?

For a few hundred more get some from SWR otherwise cam and Ø44's would not be utelised properly.

 

Just my thought.

Give it a crack though, if your handy.

[Riceburner]

I think some F54's had flat tops. The only difficult part would be dialing in the camshaft.... But If you get everything balanced, get top quality gaskets, new turbo head bolts and are careful I can't see any problems. I run an original L28 (F54 P90, raced for 3 yrs) But only rev to 6500rpm. I know people might shudder at my suggestions but for me spending 3-5grand on a motor is madness... All due respect to others! The big point is, if it serves your purpose and budget go for it.

[gav240z]

I have considered the same thing mate and my point of view is to build as much of the motor on my own as possible. I'm even contemplating doing the port work and port matching myself (then getting it matched by computer / flow bench later). Yes you could make mistakes, yes it could cost you more in the long run, but at the same time you will certainly learn a lot more and if it works out well for me I'd consider building motors for other members too.

 

For me the fun part of working on cars is the satisfaction of having done it yourself and learnt something new. If you are the same way I'd definitely consider doing most of the work myself.

 

You have the forum members with expertise who can probably help out and might even come around to give you some guidance.

 

The Datsun L-series books are very detailed and useful, so you should be ok provided you keep a clean working environment and keep all parts organised.

[stevo_gj]

I plan on doing the same thing myself one day. Only limitation is lack of tools and workspace. I'd love to rebuild my own L28 for the same reasons Gav just gave.

[Zedman240®]

With an L28 I had built, I did get Steve Newing to build the bottom end but he asked me if I wanted to assemble the head completely. He gave me the lash pads marked for intake and exhaust, valve springs and valves and the spring compressor and off I went! Took me around 3-4 hours but I can say nothing ever failed when I raced it at the tracks! Was pretty easy, so I say go do it as well..

[lightmaster240z]

I am about to do the same rebuild as you. As far as I can see with a little help from my frends there is nothing to hard in it. Good luck let see who finish first

regrads

Bruce 

[mossy]

Thanks guys, i think you made up my mind for me, I will give it a crack.

[Scoota G]

Yea i bulit mine too, had Ray Spratling check the head got all the Machining done By M&W Performance 40 thou over, full balance, crow cam, triples and all the usual bolt on gear. Even tried a mild port and polish (which took me about 40 hrs) only thing that went wrong was the flexplate bolts had a build up of residue and was loose even the bolt tension was correct. Made a nasty rattle and cost me about a grand to figure that one out so make sure all those threads are cleaned properly.

[kuyz]

Do it dude. I just did mine a couple months ago, with zero mechanical experience, most I'd done was change the spark plugs. I got the "How to rebuild your Nissan/Datsun OHC engine" book and I did it by myself and learnt a freaking HEAP, and bought a lot of tools. I highly recommend that book though if its your first time since it's almost a step by step guide.

[mossy]

Yep just ordered that book. Been doing a bit of research on the net though and it seems a F54, N42 combo with flat top pistons will have knock, I'll have to read up on the book for some more info.

[Taz]

Would a L28et be much harder to rebuild then a standard L28?? would much be different then the stuff mentioned above?

[C.A.R.]

Knock? You mean detonation, Mark?

I wouldn't worry about it - as long as you run PULP & don't have a stupidly high Static CR, it won't detonate.

 

Heck, I have a L6 here with 10:1.1 Static CR & it's running 53deg. full advance on PULP & it doesn't knock...

[mossy]

Yea thats probably what I meant, I thought knock pinging and detonation were all the same, I'm still learning 

[kalium]

Before rebuilding your block, I'd get some good gauges and determine whether or not you're going to have to rebore it.

You'd be spewing if you did all the work and found out that your clearances are out!

 

 

 

[mossy]

Why not Flat top pistons?

For a few hundred more get some from SWR otherwise cam and Ø44's would not be utelised properly.

 

Just my thought.

Give it a crack though, if your handy.

 

I guess when I said standard bottom end I just meant no forgies or anything fancy, I'll be using flat tops and most parts I'll be buying from SWR.

 

 

Before rebuilding your block, I'd get some good gauges and determine whether or not you're going to have to rebore it.

You'd be spewing if you did all the work and found out that your clearances are out!

 

I'll be getting the block hot tanked and bored and honed also.