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kuyz

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About kuyz

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    Perth
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  1. Hi there, I have the following book, How to Modify you Nissan/Datsun OHC Engine, by Frank Honsowetz. The book is practically brand new. Its located in Perth, NOR. Or Cairns. Was going to chuck it but thought I'd ask here. Will post. $20 (Sold) Cheers
  2. Hows the ATF level??
  3. Yeah I have the pdf FSM also. I found out that its the BCDD (Boost Controlled Deceleration Device - somehow managed to miss it all the other times I looked)... Not sure if the BCDD is the issue, but I'm going to block it off now and find out!
  4. Hi everyone, I am hoping someone can help me out, I recently had to replace my exhaust/intake manifold and while I was at it I decided to remove the EGR valve and the auxiliary air (choke) and all the vacuum lines attached. Anyway after getting it all back together I found my revs were sticking when I revved the engine (ie air leak in the intake manifold). I found the problem to be a a vacuum hose which I'm not sure what it does, I hope someone can help me identify what it connects to in the photos! (the dashed red line in picture 1A, and the things it connected to). I capped the ends and at it stopped the revs sticking, but once the car has fully warmed up it still idles high at about 1100rpm and it appears that the idle screw pipe is letting in too much air; when I clamp it with pliers the revs drop down. Any help identifying the parts would be much appreciated. In the pics attached I want to know what the blue things in both pics are. And in the pic 1A what the green circled thing is, and if I need the vacuum line to it which is from before the throttle body. And in the second picture 2A, I would like to identify the thing circled in blue, which sits on top of the thermostat housing, has two vacuum lines to it, and two wires to a plug. One of the wires has broken away and I am wondering if this thing is essential/what it does? I have the EFI bible and I couldn't find either of these two things in it! If anyone has any idea please help me. I want to remove both but would like to know what they both are before I do! Thanks -Kuy
  5. Cant make it car has serious issues.
  6. Thanks man, Very helpful to hear someone else's experience. I feel a lot better knowing that you have also had this happen haha. Ill keep a close eye on the gauges and if it persists I might be bugging you for more info on your oil cooler Kuy
  7. Hi everyone, I need some advice related to engine oil temp and pressure. First off my car is a '81 280zx, automatic, stock everything as far as I know, so everything is old, except I recently rebuilt the engine. (less than 4,000ks). (all I did was replace rings bearings gaskets and repaired head, and new water pump since the head had corroded and was leaking coolant into oil, didn't replace the thermostat as it seemed to work at the time) Recently got radiator flushed but they had to cut like 3 tubes from the radiator and there is a bit of damage at the bottom of the radiator so I'd say it's about 80-90% good. Anyway my engine oil seemed to get rather hot (middle of the gauge-90C?). When I pulled up to the lights in drive, at idle speed it couldn't make enough oil pressure and the red light would come on. It seemed ok in neutral as the revs were few hundred rpm higher, just enough to get it out of the danger zone. So I assumed the radiator was unable to cool the engine properly since the water temp was also up in the middle of its gauge (~90C) and trying to start the engine at this temperature was near impossible as the starter motor seemed to be useless next to such a hot block. So I got the radiator flushed - massive difference engine runs at about 70C. But the oil still gets to 80C and pulling up to the lights yesterday the low oil pressure light still came on! So whats happening, is the oil to hot and thus to thin to be pumped effectively? -using 20/50W non-synthetic oil This being said the ambient air temp was 37C in the shade and I put my thermometer in the sun it went off the scale (more than 55C). The car was in the sun the whole time I was driving. I presume this isn't normal for a old z car? Any suggestions much appreciated as I would really like to go the "slightly south cruise" this weekend. It has good oil pressure while driving so I'm wondering would it be ok to drive it a few hundred k's at highway speeds? Thanks, Kuy
  8. Hi Jinxed, I would be keen to come along in my 280. Lurked on this site for so long and my car is always fu&^ed so ill be really keen to go for a drive... if i can get a new radiator after my uni exams, then ill be there. Count me as a keen maybe. Ill let you closer to the date haha
  9. I agree with Zedman-the sump. Just above the drain plug.
  10. http://perth.gumtree.com.au/c-Cars-Vehicles-Motorbikes-Parts-cars-Datsun-240Z-260Z-two-seater-W0QQAdIdZ222613100 zeds in perth
  11. I painted my block in holden blue . looks like this. hth
  12. Do it dude. I just did mine a couple months ago, with zero mechanical experience, most I'd done was change the spark plugs. I got the "How to rebuild your Nissan/Datsun OHC engine" book and I did it by myself and learnt a freaking HEAP, and bought a lot of tools. I highly recommend that book though if its your first time since it's almost a step by step guide.
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