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Posted

Has anyone had any experience with electronic rust protection devices?

 

I have been looking at this 12 point one on ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Electronic-Rust-Protection-Corrosion-Guard-12-points_W0QQitemZ150434898205QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Car_Parts_Accessories?hash=item23069e611d would installing the sacrafical anodes in know rust areas on the zed help?

 

Posted

The only problem with them is it takes time to evaluate results.

 

There is a lime green 72 240Z advertised on the forum that has had one installed and seems to have very little rust.

 

The science behind them is sound.

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Posted

I like the idea, but I kind of liken it to Brock's polarizer.

 

 

I want to see proven results of this working is all I'm saying. I personally would feel alot safer with good old Fish Oil or similar products ;).

Posted

Well while we are on the subject of rust protection, what other products have other people used?

Posted

Well while we are on the subject of rust protection, what other products have other people used?

That photo of you in the mankini is enough to keep anything away from your car...... Including rust

:P

Posted

Hunter,

 

Yep that green 240 z is mine.

I was also a bit skeptical about the rust guard thing but after looking all over the car the results are truly impressive.

 

My observations are not scientific however as I'm sure other factors came into play regarding the lack of rust in my car.

 

Perhaps it was garaged or didn't live near the coast.

 

Like it was said above there is no substitute to getting rid of the rust then coating it.

 

However that being said the more methods of preventions surely the better.

 

I would defiantly recommend this product.

 

 

Posted

I like the idea, but I kind of liken it to Brock's polarizer.

 

 

I want to see proven results of this working is all I'm saying. I personally would feel alot safer with good old Fish Oil or similar products ;).

 

Well the polarizer sounds silly, but the rust guards make sense especially since they are used in non motor vehicle applications.

 

We learned about them in year 12 chemistry actually. Large bridges will often be attached to blocks of zinc which are stored underground to slow down the corrosive process. The theory is solid, it just depends on whether the donating electrodes are connected to enough parts of the car for them to function effectively. I fully intend to buy a set of these and install them at some point.

Posted

A lot of local governments use them in their fleets, especially for utes that work on beaches, and the results seem to be pretty impressive, ie the ute lasts longer than the lease and can be sold on in good condition.

 

The systems have been around for years and arepretty effective if installed correctly, and like anything else maintained.

 

 

Posted

Yeah the lumps of zinc are called sacrificial anodes. The same is used on hulls of ships and bridge pylons.

 

Not to sure how the electronic thing works however. It most defiantly cant reverse the polarity of the chassis. It simply puts a very low electric charge into the chassis that inturn significantly slows (doesn't stop) rust forming.

Posted

Oh woops I was getting them confused.

 

In chemistry we learned about the electric circuit preventing rust as well. Essentially its the same process, except instead of a sacrifical element donating electrons it's the circuit that donates them. I suppose you could say that whatever batter is powering the circuit is acting just like the sacrificial element, except that the battery can be recharged whereas the zinc anodes simply degrade.

Posted

I am even more convinced now.

I honestly thought this thing was a gimmik untill I looked at the door skins and the floor pans....

 

All I can say it GET ONE.

 

Tim

Posted

On a note that is pretty close to this is a few You tube videos about rust removal.

 

essentially you put your piece in a chemical mixture and run a current through it. Sort of liek when you get stuff chromed or zinc plated.

 

The difference is the rust literally changes from rust back to metal!!.

Worth a look it you need to clean up some small hard to get parts.

Posted

I will buy one then, price of one of them compared to rust repairs is sweet FA

 

Peter did you buy any particular brand? And where did you mount your anodes?

Posted

Mine is the corrision guard one from Mission Beach Qld. You can bid on e-bay or buy direct buy now from the e-bay site . I have eight anodes in my car. Down low on rear guards in boot, same in back seat behind door above dog leg, one in the door and one on the rails half way along the engine bay. They are easy to wire up as everything you need is included. Just follow instructions.  I used a total of eight. [one each side]

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

they used sacrfificail anode for years in outboard and marine applications.

 

some had slabs attached on lower part of the outboard. new ones had sacrficial trim tabs while others water pickups.

 

seem to work quite well on boats.  as long as u replace them once every few years. once they degrade they dont work.  obviously.

 

be definetly attaching few around my z.

Posted

they used sacrfificail anode for years in outboard and marine applications.

 

some had slabs attached on lower part of the outboard. new ones had sacrficial trim tabs while others water pickups.

 

seem to work quite well on boats.  as long as u replace them once every few years. once they degrade they dont work.  obviously.

 

be definetly attaching few around my z.

 

Sacrificial anodes are generally chunks of zinc. My theory is that when our cars were new they had a lot of zinc plated stuff attached to the cars. This zinc material acted (by accident or by design I'm not sure) as a sacrificial anode. As our cars have aged the zinc is sacrificed until there is none left to sacrifice then the rust grows quicker. There seems to me to be a correlation between the amount of rust in a car and the lack of zinc plating found on the various components.

 

By the way sacrificial anodes are cheap ($2-$10) so even if it doesn't work there is nothing to lose.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

not sure  but after five years my sun roof was leaking end up being rust near its seal (was in a Honda)

 

 

after reading all the post maybe i did not have enough of them but engine bay was rust free

Posted

They work fine in old GT Falcons and not so old Nissan 4X4 's I would suggest that sun roofs are a problem as I have seen quite a few in different older cars rusting around the rubbers. Moisture must collect there and not get out. Maybe some type of treatment in this area under the rubber would stop the rust. ???

  • 9 months later...
Posted

Well i don't know if anyone is still intrested in this post, i put a ERP on my 1976 260 when i first got her in 2004 , she had been a country car all her life with no major rust only a couple of small spots on the lower doors and dog legs and rear hatch, the rust did not change for years the only problem was that she had a slow power drain some where so even with the ERP turning itself off when the battery got to a certan point i still ended up with a flat battery of the car as not used for a couple of weeks, After about 3 years the rust areas did not change at all then one day i noticed that they had got alot worse,  i looked down and one of the electronic pads had fallen off and the battery connection also was disconnected, so the device was not working. i am convinced that these things do work as long as they are kept maintained

 

Now the green car is re sprayed and all the rust cut out and  is no longer a everydayer and more a club car i have fitted a 240v converter to 12v 1 amp and removed the power from the battery so when i park she i just plug her into a power point so it powers the ERP straight from there. i have also sprayed lanolin everywhere i could possible spray it.

 

A Great Car Painter (Mal Gay) said not that long ago "The best form of rust proofing is paint!" so if you really want it to last paint it

 

I was recently explained how these things effect metal (diffrent to sacrificial anodes) if anyone is interested i will attempt to explain one day

 

Cheers

Dave

  • 4 months later...
Posted

These seem to work on ships and other sea going items, because it uses the salt water as part of the equation.

 

I will not for an instant believe these work, on cars.

 

I have seen so many cars with these installed over the years that have the same amount of rust as other same model cars that don't have these installed.

 

I've seen current model year cars that had rust, even with these installed!

 

When my girlfriend bought her Prius, the dealer tried to convince us to buy one of these electronic parasites to the car. There was this great warranty for the body of the car if we did get, but then read the fine print, it had to be inspected yearly by them, AND rust proofed, you know oil sprayed, for the warranty to be valid! What? If the Electronic protection works, why would we need the oil spraying?  ???

FWIW, I don't really like oil spraying because it can trap moisture in, and if the oil spraying isn't thick enough can cause rust to start sooner. I also hate getting that crap all over myself when working on the car. I had one car that had it and cleaned most of it off under the hood after a while. I got dirtier from the oil spray than I did from the work I was performing. It is one of the few "rust protection schemes" that I would say has potential to almost do what it claims.

The best line from dealer was: "Well the government wouldn't let us sell these if they didn't work." Oh really? What about all of those "Ionizing magnetic super awesome fun time fandangled" bracelets, or , penis enlarging pills, or, Those intake tornado things that are supposed to increase power and fuel economy, or, the magnetic fuel aligners, or, or, or..... ::)

 

This seems to prey on the people that want to connect electronics to everything to do everything for them.

 

The best way to keep rust at bay is to wash the car top and bottom.

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