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Posted

If they are the ones that were on ebay for a bit, did you have any issues with number on primary hitting the block vent tube that comes out?? The photo of your engine on the stand on the last page shows it touching? The set I bought did, making it impossible to fit them without major hammer persuation, the flange also fowled on the thermostat housing.

 

Looks very neat mate, it's all going back together quickly.

Posted

Those are the ones Tim. Maximum Performance Headers. Yes I have to adjust the vent pipe a bit. I am going to cut it and bend than weld up. Had no trouble with water housing but they are touching the block at the bottom. Hope there are no problems with that. No progress today as the wife sprained her ankle last night and I am house husband and nurse now.

Posted

How lucky can you get. I went to Autobarn and inquired about a new alternator and they had one on the shelf that had been there for two years. Cost $120.00. Couldn't get the old crusty one done up for that price.

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Posted

Absolute credit to you Pete, I am also doing up my 260 2+2 and I know how much work it takes, Might I say adding a little tension from the other half as she feels I have left home and moved into the shed. LOL. keep up the good work and I know it will be worth it in the end.

Posted

Still haven't fired her up yet as I am waiting for the interior to be finished {hood lining etc} them the dash can go in than the windscreen. Once the dash is in I will turn the key. I believe the tacho has to be connected for the engine to fire. Correct me if I am wrong.

Posted

Fitted new uni's to drive sharft to-day. Ordered new drive sharft bolts from Nissan and new K&N filters for the carbs. Can't wait to have the interior finished so I can fire her up.

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Posted

Not that difficult when you have done uni's before. First knock out retaining clips than use a sockert to bash out one side of bearings than bash back to get the other side out. Remove cross and clean up. Putting new ones in is easy. Remove bearing caps and half fill with grease {only small amount} place the cross in, place bearing caps in and squeeze together with vice. Replace clips making sure to use the correct width ones and squirt a bit more grease in with the gun. I bought the uni's from CBS bearings and come with two size retaing clips. Make sure they move freely through all axis. I had to use the thinner retaining clips. Only 5 thou difference between clips so don't get them mixed up unless you have a vernier. Sorry I didn't take more pics but it is a greasy job and not keen on coating my camera with slippery stuff.

Posted

Hi Zer's,

          Picked some more interior parts today and don't they look a treat covered in vinyl. Need to get the hood liner done than full steam ahead. Always check out the Atlantic Z site to get the best tips when doing anything like replacing universal joints or anything for that matter it would have to be one of the best sites around. Can anyone post pics of dissy top with plug leads numbered as I think  my oil pump dissy sharft may be installed incorrectly. Have followed firing order but just want to make sure. Firing order 153624

Thanks for any help.

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Posted

Replaced the rear brake lines today. What a job. Should have done this when car was on the bbq. Bought a couple of pipe spanners so I shouldn't stuff any more brake line nuts. All new flex lines as well. At least it should stop if I ever get it going.

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Posted

Well I decided to pull the exhaust system off the parts car so I have a set of extracters for sale. Replaced extracters with the standard exhaust manifold and will get the whole system in tomorrow.

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  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Well I finally fired her up today. Couldn't wait any longer so I put the dash in and the new motor has had its first run. Small problem. I had to fill the carbie bowls with feul as the mechinal pump won't suck up fuel. I  have double checked the feul lines to make sure they are hooked up to the right pipes but no fuel will come. And yes I did put some petrol in the tank. Has any one got some idea what could be the problem?

Posted

Yes mate. I took the rocker off to make sure oil was pumping and to check timing. Pulled pump apart and the diaphram is a bit dodgy so I will try a new one.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Well I finally decided to respray the bus before all the new interior goes in. Started to rub her down and waiting for new front guards to turn up. The old ones have the headlight pods welded on and need some minor repair so I am sticking with original looks as have two spare sets of pods to go on. Old guards are up for grabs if any one wants them cheap. Not sure how far back I should go with the rub down so any comments will be greatfully accepted also hints on do don't does on resprays. God I love working on the Z. Gets me out of a lot work around the house.

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Posted

Hey mate what's the rust like on those guards? I might take them if it isn't to bad. I've got a new aftermarket fuel pump I could trade ;)

 

Also what did you replace the brake lines with? Did you just buy the tubing and bend it up yourself or did you get it from another car/supplier? I'm going to be doing this to my project car at some point, I was just planning on buying the tubing and bending it myself.

 

 

Posted

PM sent. Had the brake lines done at Springwood Brake and Clutch. They rekitted  front and rear cylinders and supplied new masters for brake and clutch as well as rebuilding brake booster at a resonable price.

Posted

Well I finally decided to respray the bus before all the new interior goes in. Started to rub her down and waiting for new front guards to turn up. The old ones have the headlight pods welded on and need some minor repair so I am sticking with original looks as have two spare sets of pods to go on. Old guards are up for grabs if any one wants them cheap. Not sure how far back I should go with the rub down so any comments will be greatfully accepted also hints on do don't does on resprays. God I love working on the Z. Gets me out of a lot work around the house.

 

Hi Pete,

 

Once again a personal thanks for all the effort with the extractors you shipped across...........

 

The paint, I noticed that the rub throughs on the areas you have sanded back seem yellowish, is that correct?

 

If so this would indicate the car has been done before as the original undercoat layers would have been a white/bone color.

 

If this is the case, then that would mean the color layers you are rubbing back are 2K / Enamel most likely low baked.

 

The only dangers you face with spraying straight over the top are as follows.

 

(A) If you are going to apply a 2K over the top again, you may see shrinkage that outlines the actual shape of the rub through areas some months down the track, to avoid this you would be best to apply a sealer coat of high fill over those area's first, I also know there is what is called an ISOLATOR undercoat specifically designed for this exact purpose, what ever you do, dont apply a wet coat of acrylic primer over it, the acrylic thinners may actually cause a reaction if applied to wet either at the time of application or after the final 2K top coats are applied.

 

(B) If you are planning to paint it in acrylic, the same applies as in the previous point, you ca easily fry the rub through edges if you are not carefull, and what must be remembered is that enamel is like concrete, while acrylic is a much sofet material, after a period of time, the 2 having reacted differently to climatic conditions of hot and cold weather work against each other and the the upper surface starts to disply stress in the form of crows feet, blistering peeling etc etc etc.

 

© If that is hi-fill under the upper coats, then I would actually use the color coat as a guide coat and block it all back until you have more or less a hi-fill surface again, this will have the effect of flattening out the panels to a glass smooth straight finish, minimise the material you have on the high fill and greatly reduce the defects mentioned in the last 2 points from occuring.

 

Personally, I would go with option © and then send the car around to a bpaint shop and have them spray and bake a new enamel finish on.

 

Cheers

 

John

Posted

John,

      Glad you are happy with the extactors, The car has been redone quite a few years ago and the yellow under coat is K&K primer filler. I have resprayed the engine bay and inside door, boot lid areas already with K&H acyrlic paint and clear top coat and had no problems. I am only going to do the same with the rest as can't afford the 8 to 14K I have been quoted for a respray from several body shops. I have done a Sunny for my daughter in this manner before and it turned out allright. The car won't see a lot of sunlight so I will keep my fingers crossed. Will do a small test area first but the areas I have done are OK. This car is not going to be a show car but a very good looking Sunday driver for and old fart and his missus. If I can convince her it is safe. Gave her quite a few frights in the old 1600 out in the bush many years ago. Thanks for your help but not being a pro painter it is hard to understand some of your comments. Thanks anyway.

Posted

Well the new guards have arrived from All Z Parts and I must say Warren done a good job of packing them. All I need now is to fit and paint them. This is the daunting part for me and I am still looking for some one to help in this matter. All I can say is HELP. If you are in the south side of Bris and want to help a fellow Z car owner or want to make a few extra bucks send me a PM. Thanks.

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