aidannn Posted July 17, 2011 Posted July 17, 2011 that job on the welded fuel filler looks great. absolutely love the new fuel filler behind the leds. love the engine bay. are you going to get that turbo manifold sandblasted or something. i rckon thats the only thing holding back your perfect engine bay! Quote
nizm0zed Posted July 17, 2011 Author Posted July 17, 2011 Thanks mate yea, i should have done something with the manifold. I painted it in flameproof VHT paint (cast iron colour), but i should have got it ceramic coated. I figured at the time i'd make up a heat shield to cover it all, but it never happened. Pending on underbonnet temps, i may still do that later down the track... Quote
nizm0zed Posted July 24, 2011 Author Posted July 24, 2011 So, after 3 days i have finally finished sanding, cutting, buffing, polishing and waxing. Its DONE!!!! ;D Now onto assembly and i'll be doing skids in no time Quote
sco_aus Posted July 24, 2011 Posted July 24, 2011 Awesome man, its looking very nice. Whats with the Intercooler? lol Quote
nizm0zed Posted July 31, 2012 Author Posted July 31, 2012 wow, over a year and i haven't updated my thread. Slack, yea i know. I have had a LOT of life get in the way. so, summary. changed jobs, moved house, paintwork crazed and went to shit, stripped it all back, took it to a professional shop to get done, changed the colour slightly while it was there. I also got some 4-5 stud wheel adaptors and some 5 stud mag wheels, fitted up with semi slick tyres (the price was right) I got myself a set of flares from the USA that were absolute garbage, so i binned them and got a set from Ben at Otomoto. I should have got them in the first place, because they fit perfectly first time. totally worth the cash. I ditched the Megasquirt ECU and replaced it with a Haltech E6X and waste spark setup. I finished off the exhaust and the engine runs. I need to adjust the cam timing, then tune it properly but it does actually move under its own power. For the last 2 months the car has been stuck in paint jail, he did me a good deal so unfortunately that meant my car would take a back seat if something more important came along, I have my wedding coming up in November and im trying my hardest to have the car presentable for that, most likely only on a temp permit. Im also trying to get as much done as possible, as i am looking to buy a house near the end of the year. that should be pretty good at sucking out any remaining money for a while. BUT! Good news, i got sent a photo from the painters today and i have organised for my car to come home on Thursday arvo, right in time for re-assembly on Friday, Saturday and Sunday. I should be able to get most of it done over those days, so that'll be awesome! anyways, Progress pics!!!! (more to come after i put it back together, i promise) Quote
sco_aus Posted July 31, 2012 Posted July 31, 2012 Good work, looks great in that colour. Can't wait to see the finished product. Quote
Cozza Posted July 31, 2012 Posted July 31, 2012 Looking good, I love the colour. Sounds like a fun weekend in the shed. Quote
Stivva Posted July 31, 2012 Posted July 31, 2012 Looking good thus far, make sure you keep us updated on it this time. Also, I would like to know more about these 5 stud adapters Quote
nizm0zed Posted August 1, 2012 Author Posted August 1, 2012 make sure you keep us updated on it this time. yes boss. lol. tbh, i find writing about this quite relaxing, i am a little annoyed at myself that i have let it all slide, i plan on doing something about that. As for the adaptors, http://gktech.com.au/product_detail.asp?id=4to5-spcr These are them. They are very good quality, they use an extra long stud to replace one of the original studs. The guy that runs it, Greg Kuse, is a nice bloke, very quick service once they got the product in stock. I did have to shave the tops off my remaining original studs though as they fouled on the rear of the wheel flange, causing it to sit up a bit. I also had to make a slight modification to the front hub, machining the OD of the spindle down to a 66mm taper to suit the adaptor. Overall it took almost no material off the spindle. I went this way because when i do the proper 5 stud conversion, i want to sell the adaptors to someone else and i felt that if i modified them i would reduce my chances. Quote
Riceburner Posted August 1, 2012 Posted August 1, 2012 Mmmmmm nice finish Lots more pics and progress reports when it gets home please Quote
nizm0zed Posted August 10, 2012 Author Posted August 10, 2012 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr Ohhhh yeaaaaaa!!!! Took it out for a quick spin down the street this afternoon, its pretty rough, needs to be tuned and have a good going over the suspension and driveline. Unfortunately my rear main seal has started leaking, so the plan is to get the gearbox off and replace it. I also need to fix up a slight leak from one of the brake line connections, but thats an easy re-flare job. by no means is it finished though, on the outside i still need a couple of badges for the pillars, a pair of FG bumpers, a nicer set of wheels and some small detailing. I havent decided what to do with the front corner lights yet, im undecided on whether to put the standard original ones in, fit LED insides to the standard housings, or build a custom set from scratch. I havent touched the rear suspension or the interior yet, so i still have plenty left to keep me busy. Quote
Retro Z Posted August 10, 2012 Posted August 10, 2012 Nooiicceee!!! Love the colour and the spot lights Quote
Johnboy Posted August 10, 2012 Posted August 10, 2012 Second that, looks great and love the spotties. What did you mount them to? John Quote
RB30X Posted August 10, 2012 Posted August 10, 2012 Thumbs up from me. Those wheels aren't that bad, just drop the ride height a bit and enjoy it. Quote
nizm0zed Posted August 10, 2012 Author Posted August 10, 2012 lol, ride height still in 4x4 mode I'll get dropped, dont worry about that. the wheels are ok, bit of gutter rash around the edges but reasonably heavy, I want to get some Lenso D1-R in 17x8" that'll finish it off nicely. As for the spot lights, i made some small mounting brackets that are welded to the bonnet hinges, they bolt on sideways onto them. I have some HID inserts to go into them, so they'll project a pencil beam spot almost 1km when they are on Quote
Stivva Posted August 10, 2012 Posted August 10, 2012 Great idea with the spotlights. I was trying to work out where to mount them, I want to put square fog lights behind my grill. Good work with the car overall. Quote
Roberto Posted August 11, 2012 Posted August 11, 2012 Nice colour! The darker blue is definitely the way to go. Where are you going to mount the front number plate? Quote
chris240 Posted August 11, 2012 Posted August 11, 2012 Lookin good You should talk to Miika about his wheels, hes having clearance problems with some new watanabes he bought, and may sell them.... Quote
sco_aus Posted August 12, 2012 Posted August 12, 2012 Good luck getting a hold of him... Alan, she looks fantastic, those wheels will look the shiznit on it. Quote
KriZka Posted August 21, 2012 Posted August 21, 2012 Looks awesome bruv, keep it up. Good call on wheel Adapters, I've been looking in the US for some... no joy... Quote
nizm0zed Posted September 9, 2012 Author Posted September 9, 2012 well, update time! First up, i mentioned a post or so ago that i changed my dizzy to an optical unit and set up a waste spark coil setup. I replaced the chopper disc inside with one from a Z31 300zx, because it has a home location on the inner optical disc. Basically, that means that of the 6 slots on the inner ring, one is larger. the ECU can read this as a no.1 cylinder reference. that reference usually comes up at about 80 degrees before top dead centre. the ECU counts forwards from this point to ensure it fires the coil at the right time. the reason its so far behind top dead is for several reasons. 1. the ECU needs time to count forwards, yea it is very quick, but so is an engine at 9000Rpm 2. the ECU will also take into account the amount of timing advance it needs to apply for the given running condition. If you dont have enough leeway, your ECU will be limited in how much timing it can offer, even if the maps say its supposed to do it. suffice to say, thats how its supposed to be seeing as i no longer had any leads coming off the cap, i decided to smooth it over and make it neat looking. I cut the top off the cap, leaving about 1cm worth of the bottom of the cap. Then i laid come fibreglass on the inside of the cap to fill the gaping hole. after that dried i sanded the outer edges, smoothing it all off. a bit of 3M carbon fibre vinyl wrap and it looks the goods now. For the coil pack, i used an Au falcon coil pack. Its what they call a 'dumb' ignition system, as the dwell and ignition firing control is done via the ignition module instead of incorporated within the coil. (EDIS module for anyone looking at the 'standard' setup) The coil is mounted on a peice of alloy plate to help with heat dissipation, with the ignition modules mounted just below the coils. In my setup, i used 3 Bosch 124 ignition modules, 1 per waste spark coil. Its also possible to use a 3 channel ignition module from something like an Audi V6 motor or some skyline RB motors, but getting the wiring plugs can be a pain. Cost wise it ends up about the same. I like the individual module setup as it gives some redundancy, eg, if one of the modules burns out, it'll still run on 4 cylinders, not very well, but enough to get it off the road ect. With a fully incorporated system, once one bit breaks, it all stops. I also finally mounted my oil catch can and finished off the engine breather pipes. The catch can is mounted to the side of the airbox wall. inside the airbox there is a fitting that passes into the catch can, with a hose running from that to the inlet pipe just after the air filter. End result is a catch can that works and burns the fumes, instead of being all illegal and venting to atmo. (pro tip, fill your catch can with steel wool, it helps the oil vapour to shed the oil and stay in the can.) Quote
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