Impatient1S 1977 - 260Z 2+2

[Impatient1]

Previous owner bough car from the 1st owner after 1-2 years after being purchased new. It was used for a certain amount of time and was in Wollongong before moving to Perth. It was in a Perth shed for over 15 years not being used and very occasionally started up. This is where I saw the car and eventually heard it. When we attempted to start it all the fuel lines split. I was partly hoping it wouldn’t start from a price point of view as the body looked in good condition. All the regular spots were rust free apart from the petrol filler cap, drivers foot well and spare wheel well.

 

New fuel lines were fitted and a fair amount of start ya bastard later it fired up to life. Not sounding the best with some sort of exhaust leak (still to be determined) and plenty of smoke which cleared out after a while. I couldn’t really pass up the chance and considering I'd gone to Perth I knew the budget would be even lower in the financial committees eyes. A deal was done and transport arranged. A week later it arrived in pretty good shape and I was able to drive it (first time) from across the street to under the 'carport'.

 

 

It did come with a range of spare parts all in unknown states and looking quite old - gear stick, drive shaft with 260z 2+2 written on and old datmasta sticker, e88 cylinder head, valve cover, two alternators, two starter motors, A/C compressor (I think), gearbox mount. A few more pieces which I'll work out what they are with time. Car still has all the A/C running gear, if the family is to ever get in for a drive it would be handy to have it. No idea if it runs, not a priority at the moment.

 

After a quick clean - check out the gold pin stripes

 

 

After a new battery later it is running… very rough, it's a spluttering mess really. It shouldn’t be a surprise but there was always hope that it would clear itself out, like a bad curry.

I was going to change spark plugs and other regular maintenance bits and run a compression test. Considering the car isn't warming up, I've decided to follow advice and drain the tank first. Hopefully apply the kbs kit. In between that I'll be doing more cleaning in the engine bay to help determine the other issues (once the tank is back in). I will need to get an air pump belt and work out where to get the other parts - mainly hoses and eventually door seals.

 

 

Cheers

John

 

 

Edited September 21, 2015 by Impatient1

[PB260Z]

Gidday John

 

Glad she made it back east safely.

I would be having a look at the carbies, after sitting still for so many years they could be gummed up.

Are planning a Manual conversion ?

 

Cheers

 

PB

Edited September 21, 2015 by PB260Z

[gav240z]

Gidday John

 

Glad she made it back east safely.

I would be having a look at the carbies, after sitting still for so many years they could be gummed up.

Are planning a Manual conversion ?

 

Cheers

 

PB

 

Not to mention the carbs look undersized for the L26, would be worth finding a good set of hitachi SUs if you can find /afford them etc..?

[FuzzyDropbear]

Nice one, I hope you're keeping those rad pin-stripes!

[Impatient1]

Glad she made it back east safely.

I would be having a look at the carbies, after sitting still for so many years they could be gummed up.

Are planning a Manual conversion ?

 

Cheers

 

PB

Cheers Peter.

Carbs - potentially i was going to see after some clean fuel and some new filters. I also need to find the exhaust leak. It's hard to work out the order to do things in. I would like to have a go at cleaning them up but i would need to spend dedicated time on them and that is a challenge. Posts in the carb sections mention the carb service center in Burwood, which isn't too far so that might a very possible option.

As for the manual conversion - I'd love to do it, but I don't really know what condition the rest of the car is in and what else it will need. I'll play it safe for now.

 

Not to mention the carbs look undersized for the L26, would be worth finding a good set of hitachi SUs if you can find /afford them etc..?

Geez I hadn't thought of changing them. I'd hope the very least they would need was a service. Not really looking for great performance - that might change.

 

Nice one, I hope you're keeping those rad pin-stripes!

for sure

[Andrew_L26]

Looking great, that hatch slam panel is mint! Those air filters look great and I was wondering if you have any info on them. I'm after some new ones for my L28 which has the exact same (as far as I can tell) carbies on it.

 

[Impatient1]

Thanks Andrew. Don't have any info unfortunately, I haven't even worked what the replacement filters should be. I'll take a closer look and see if there is any markings that might help Id them. Perhaps once I know what replacement filters it uses it might make it easier to work it out.

[Impatient1]

Looks like it's ryco a109, 1969-1972 Torana.
A few pics do appear to be similar but I'll check when I'm home.

 

Most seem to have two wingnuts to keep it in place - http://www.streetmachine.com.au/media/2057478/WEB-LC-Torana-GTR-3-nw.jpg

Image is huge otherwise i would have added it in.

 

The pic below of a EK with stromberg carbs appears to be closer to mine.

 

Edited September 23, 2015 by Impatient1

[peter t]

Check out the build threads first before jumping in. It will save you heaps of $'s. Go with a Holly as I did and get rid of the air pump and chuck on a good set of extractors.

[Impatient1]

From what I've read in other post the original running gear as in the emission control systems need to present for NSW rego. I wouldn't want to have issues down the track.

[CroS13]

looking forward to the build mate! just an observation, but your carport seems to be missing a few key components!

 

Rudi

[peter t]

From what I've read in other post the original running gear as in the emission control systems need to present for NSW rego. I wouldn't want to have issues down the track.

Fair enough, mine is a 75 mod and has very little emission control so easy to change carbies ect. so what you do is get it registered and then throw all the other junk in the bin and I don't think those carbies are original anyway. My mates 76 had flat tops.

Edited September 26, 2015 by peter t

[peter t]

looking forward to the build mate! just an observation, but your carport seems to be missing a few key components!

 

Rudi

Don't matter one good storm and they will be missing anyway. Happened to my m8 in Hervey Bay with the same carport.

[Impatient1]

Carport cover is on, and agreed it does need some reinforcing and further tying down. I was going to get another cover the fully encloses it but I may end up just using a blue plastic.

 

Fair enough, mine is a 75 mod and has very little emission control so easy to change carbies ect. so what you do is get it registered and then throw all the other junk in the bin and I don't think those carbies are original anyway. My mates 76 had flat tops.

Agreed.

 

I've been watching some of the videos on university motors that were linked in another thread and it's helped me understand how the carbs work and what is what.

I still need to sort out the fuel tank before i can progress to the fun stuff.

[blu260z]

From what I've read in other post the original running gear as in the emission control systems need to present for NSW rego. I wouldn't want to have issues down the track.

I have attached a pic of the emission rules here is SA. I have switch my 76 carbs to a 350cfm holley, So from what I can see is aslong as I follow this its fine. I intend on running a catch can but having it venting back into the PCV, and also running a catalytic converter to keep the exhaust emissions down. But they will probably find some way to not aprove me

Edited September 27, 2015 by blu260z

[Impatient1]

I am making slow progress with the tank but I've been looking around the carbs. They are British SU's. Unsure if how the hoses were connected, they seem rather od (to a noob).

 

Loop the loop and nice wear on the hose from the throttle.

 

close up

 

One hose is broken and this one doesn't go anywhere. Just to confirm, that where the hoses are connected to is the assy-servo diaphragm?

 

Hose in my hand was hanging next to the battery hose that goes out the bottom of the engine bay. I tend to think it could potentially pass fuel, seemed a bit close to the exhaust for my liking if that's the case.

 

I've been trying to find similar engine shots to compare how connections are set out. The throttle and the hose seem not to be close to each other.

 

I guess its not a gasket but fuel residue... yummy

 

Body related. Drivers floor panel, floor 'gromit' is worn so there was a chance of water got in. To be cleaned and treated.

 

Passenger door is missing this door bumper. Are these available locally?

Found one in the states but prefer to keep it local if possible.

 

Still trying to understand how it all works.

 

Edited September 29, 2015 by Impatient1

[Andrew_L26]

I am making slow progress with the tank but I've been looking around the carbs. They are British SU's. Unsure if how the hoses were connected, they seem rather od (to a noob).

 

Loop the loop and nice wear on the hose from the throttle.

IMG_2654.JPG

 

close up

IMG_2663.JPG

 

One hose is broken and this one doesn't go anywhere. Just to confirm, that where the hoses are connected to is the assy-servo diaphragm?

IMG_2660.JPG

 

Hose in my hand was hanging next to the battery hose that goes out the bottom of the engine bay. I tend to think it could potentially pass fuel, seemed a bit close to the exhaust for my liking if that's the case.

IMG_2664.JPG

 

I've been trying to find similar engine shots to compare how connections are set out. The throttle and the hose seem not to be close to each other.

 

I guess its not a gasket but fuel residue... yummy

IMG_2655.JPG

 

Body related. Drivers floor panel, floor 'gromit' is worn so there was a chance of water got in. To be cleaned and treated.

IMG_2636.JPG

 

Passenger door is missing this door bumper. Are these available locally?

Found one in the states but prefer to keep it local if possible.

IMG_2639.JPG

 

Still trying to understand how it all works.

 

I have the exact same carbs ( I think, I'll get some photos later or tomorrow)

[Impatient1]

No hurry Andrew - cheers.

[Impatient1]

Slowly taking out the fuel tank. It's loose now just need to take out the hoses on top of the tank. From what i can see of the tank it is pretty filthy. When I was lowering the tank it did reveal a hole in the spare wheel well. The tank must have been covering it up or holding it up. So it's the first real kink in the armor.

 

I then noticed the top of the hatch has rust coming through. I know there's another thread on 2+2 roof issues so its a bit of a worry.

 

Just wondering, is there meant to be a gap between the rear lights and hatch area?

[CroS13]

Just wondering, is there meant to be a gap between the rear lights and hatch area?

IMG_27041.JPG

 

No there shouldn't

 

And something else i noticed in that photo, earlier in the thread, someone else mentioned that your rear slam panel looked "mint" and i just thought to myself i was actually thinking the exact opposite.

 

The rear quarter panel folds over into the slam panel  about half way down and is spot welded there, so why would someone bog over it and smooth it out /shave it, unless they were hiding something?

 

For example here is mine:

 

 

and yours has been shaved out and is smooth.

 

Id be grabbing a  brumby disk and a grinder and getting into it, and I have a bad feeling you should probably order a replacement slam panel from rare spares.

 

Good luck!

 

Rudi

 

[Andrew_L26]

Completely forgot about the carb photos!

Also, I wouldn't worry too much about that rust at the top of the hatch...

 

But seriously, I would be sanding all of that back and dealing with it now before it gets this bad. I still need a short term solution for my issue as I don't have the resources to take to roof off etc. at the moment. I've just used rust converter where I can.

 

 

[Impatient1]

No there shouldn't

 

And something else i noticed in that photo, earlier in the thread, someone else mentioned that your rear slam panel looked "mint" and i just thought to myself i was actually thinking the exact opposite.

 

The rear quarter panel folds over into the slam panel  about half way down and is spot welded there, so why would someone bog over it and smooth it out /shave it, unless they were hiding something?

 

For example here is mine:

 

 

and yours has been shaved out and is smooth.

 

Id be grabbing a  brumby disk and a grinder and getting into it, and I have a bad feeling you should probably order a replacement slam panel from rare spares.

 

Good luck!

 

Rudi

Thanks Rudi, I thought it looked strange. I'll leave it for now and sort the tank and roof first. I might end up taking the lights out and see if anything is jumps out.

Almost need another car to compare with

[Impatient1]

It has been a long time, almost 3 years to my first post and the car hasn't gone to far since then. We've been renovating of late, not for 3 years and that has shown me how little time i actually have to spend. To recap the past 3 years - the fuel tank was in pretty bad shape internally which i sorted using the tank sealing kit. I took the time to pretty up the outside of it. It took quite a few goes to get it right or to a state that i could live with. It does have rather a large dent which may have happened while it was off the car, possible when attached to the cement mixer. 

After the tank I ended up removing the spare wheel well, yep what a pain and probably the wrong option. I ended up cutting a replacement out of a different car, it was so many years i can't recall the model. I basically made a template and walked around the wreckers in the jap section. The replacement panel fit perfectly but I ended up buying a proper one from Warren at Z parts - if any one wants the one below let me know. 

The only benefit of not having the spare wheel well was that i was able to get into the back and work on the fuel filler section. I've removed it and was trying to recreate the panel around it. I had been fixed previously, and its was quite rough, so it doesn't bode well for the hatch area. I want to try enjoy the car while I'm still kicking so once i been able to drive it for a while i can get to that part. 

 

That is pretty much it, i did waste a lot of time with the tank, it was too humid or too cold for the paint and I end up not doing much at all and waiting.  

Along the way i've managed to get some factory alloys and some hitachi carbs from a member here. At this stage, I am seriously thinking about taking the car to stewart wilkins and getting him to sort out the motor and the manual gearbox. Once it's in a more of a known state I should be able to maintain it. I've got a gearbox that came with the car so i'll take that a part and take a look. 

That will have to wait as we are off on hols to Japan shortly which is long overdue. Booked a visit to the Nissan heritage museum, and hoping to get a few parts while over there. I feel quite burnt out at the moment so hoping the trip will help, and hopefully my next post won't be in 3 years.

 

 

Edited September 20, 2018 by Impatient1
removed photo