boost Posted February 25, 2015 Posted February 25, 2015 Hi guys, New to the forum. I'm after a 240z or 260z 2 seater. One that requires ground up resto with minimal rust and most parts still on the car. I'm located in Sydney but am willing to buy interstate. Thanks. Steve Quote
240ZR Posted February 25, 2015 Posted February 25, 2015 Hi guys, New to the forum. I'm after a 240z or 260z 2 seater. One that requires ground up resto with minimal rust and most parts still on the car. I'm located in Sydney but am willing to buy interstate. Thanks. Steve Steve, I have a 7/74 260Z 2 seater rolling shell with only one small rust issue in the LH chassis rail. Give me a call on 0416 283 194 for more info. Nick. Quote
boost Posted February 25, 2015 Author Posted February 25, 2015 How can you tell if the chassis number matches the engine number ? Is there a register to refer to ? Quote
PeterAllen Posted February 25, 2015 Posted February 25, 2015 Chassis number is stamped on the firewall above the brake booster, and Chassis number is stamped into the manufacturer data plate attached to the o/s strut tower. Have you been on 'OzClubbies' during your build? Quote
Administrators gav240z Posted February 25, 2015 Administrators Posted February 25, 2015 How can you tell if the chassis number matches the engine number ? Is there a register to refer to ? Moved your thread back to here, no need to revive that other thread. Chassis ID and Engine number located on ID plate in engine bay will tell you if numbers match. You'll need to compare with engine number stamped on motor and that which is stamped to firewall. Quote
dat2kman Posted February 25, 2015 Posted February 25, 2015 I think he thinks chassis number is same as engine number. No it isnt, never was, from new. As Gav above, The silver ID plate will have both numbers, to confirm if ID plate is correct for that car ( they can be swapped pretty easy) check the stamped number on body shell, ( but then, these can be ground back and fresh numbers engraved) Engine number not match engine no on ID plate? She's been swapped out! Quote
boost Posted February 25, 2015 Author Posted February 25, 2015 Ok thanks guys. Makes sense. 1 ID plate showing chassis number and engine number. It was a stupid question really. PetterAllen, yes I have. Why ? Quote
PeterAllen Posted February 25, 2015 Posted February 25, 2015 I've just found you on OzClubbies and noticed your 240/260 thread. I sometimes frequent the technical thread for advice on my 250 GTO build. Quote
Administrators gav240z Posted February 25, 2015 Administrators Posted February 25, 2015 It was a stupid question really. We make allowances for newbies, most of the time . Quote
dat2kman Posted February 25, 2015 Posted February 25, 2015 We are here to help and foster the Datsun love! Quote
Scoota G Posted February 25, 2015 Posted February 25, 2015 I have a 260Z Matching numbers for sale. There is some rust but from some i have seen that require a full ground up resto this one is a blessing. I also have parts to repair the bits that need repairing. Quote
boost Posted February 25, 2015 Author Posted February 25, 2015 Hi Mark, Thanks for the offer mate. i believe your car is an auto ? I'm after a manual, just so I don't have to look around for parts to do the auto to manual conversion. If I don't find the right car I may consider it later on. Cheers Steve Quote
Administrators gav240z Posted February 25, 2015 Administrators Posted February 25, 2015 Hi Mark, Thanks for the offer mate. i believe your car is an auto ? I'm after a manual, just so I don't have to look around for parts to do the auto to manual conversion. If I don't find the right car I may consider it later on. Cheers Steve Quick tip, you buy based on condition of the body with S30z's. Not the mechanical side of it. A auto->manual conversion is not that expensive compared to repairing bodywork. Quote
cracker Posted February 25, 2015 Posted February 25, 2015 Quick tip, you buy based on condition of the body with S30z's. Not the mechanical side of it. A auto->manual conversion is not that expensive compared to repairing bodywork. +1 Quote
dat2kman Posted February 28, 2015 Posted February 28, 2015 Hi guys, New to the forum. I'm after a 240z or 260z 2 seater. One that requires ground up resto with minimal rust and most parts still on the car. I'm located in Sydney but am willing to buy interstate. Thanks. Steve What is your car purchase price budget/price range? How long a period of time would you be looking at investing, to get the end result? How mch dollars/budget are you prepared to tip into this process? You may be better off financialy, and timewise, to jst wait till a finished off, or near to, car comes along, and pay a fair bit more for it You jeed to sit down and realistically come up with numbers. To get a car near to stock, e a damn good resto, you can be at over $80k. You can pick up a nice neat basic unmodded car at $15-20k Or start with a pretty cruddy one at $5-10k, and then spend a further eadily 20k on it, As plenty have found out, but do not wish to disclose,,,,, Quote
Retro Z Posted February 28, 2015 Posted February 28, 2015 I agree with dat2kman. Save and buy something complete or near complete. I started on a completly stripped shell+a rusty donor car that i paid $2000 for. I'm now a little over 20k, 4 years and a few thousand hours labour in it and its still not evem painted and registered yet. It still needs probably another 5k before its fully complete. I enjoy working on the car, but it has really taken its toll. If i had to add up all the hours or outsource the work it would easily be a 50k+ build. If i had my time again, i would spend more money and buy a near complete or full driving original car and slowly fix things on it while still be able to drive and enjoy it. Quote
Moderators PB260Z Posted February 28, 2015 Moderators Posted February 28, 2015 If i had my time again, i would spend more money and buy a near complete or full driving original car and slowly fix things on it while still be able to drive and enjoy it. Great advice, have just done exactly this, although not a Z. Purchased a car that someone had restored albeit few years ago. Paid way less than the cost to do it myself and am now just sorting out a few odds and ends. The best part - it is registered and drivable so we can enjoy it straight away. Happy times. Quote
boost Posted March 1, 2015 Author Posted March 1, 2015 Thanks for the advice gents. The main reason I wanted to restore from the ground up is so I can be sure it is done properly and rust free. If I bought one already registered I'd be paying the $20k+ for one and still won't have the peace of mind it is rust free which would mean taking it off the road and stripping it back to bare chassis to restore. So I figured id buy something that needs full resto and buy it at a cheaper price. If it's going to cost me $25-30k to full restore one then I'm ok with that. Spending my own time fixing it isn't an issue either and I have all the time in the world. I've built from the ground up a Clubman (lotus 7 type car) and got it engineered and registered. Took me 4.5 - 5 years so I've got the patients and in no rush to get it on the road. Quote
Administrators gav240z Posted March 1, 2015 Administrators Posted March 1, 2015 71 240z on EBay now no motor. Looks perfect for you. Quote
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