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Posted

Hi Guys,

I'm considering importing a 240z/260z as none of the local offerings are grabbing me at the moment.

I'm really open to the idea of importing a LHD Z from the states but just wondering if you or anyone you know has done so before?

 

Were there any major specification differences between US/Japan models, apart from the steering wheel & rack of course.

 

I've had plenty of experience driving LHD but never an LHD in a RHD country, that would take some getting used to I think.

Anything else I should look out for?

 

Thanks Guys!

Posted

I'm considering importing a 240z/260z as none of the local offerings are grabbing me at the moment.

 

jackie-chan-wtf-face-meme-i9.jpg

  • Moderators
Posted

jackie-chan-wtf-face-meme-i9.jpg

 

Haha was waiting for that !

How many threads are there on importing  :o

Posted

Go for it!

Do it!

Excellent idea!

They'll be perfect mint factory cars there!

Please do come back on and, in great detail, let us know the costs involved, the costs to fly over and back, and in locating, inspecting, etc.

The time involved etc.

 

Vs,

waiting for the 1/2dozen very very nice ones that come up for sale here each year.

 

They are becoming  up to 40 years old now, they wont be perfect, just like a us as we get old.

  • Administrators
Posted

@Yo-Yo - what is your current budget for an S30Z? Importing won't be cheap, there is broker fees, warf fees, GST, quarantine, shipping to port, shipping on boat, compliance etc.. I would factor in $7k as the potential cost on top of the purchase price of your Z. Also do you want someone to inspect the vehicle for you? Would you fly over to see it in person first?

 

In terms of what needs to change when it gets here? Mainly the lighting like the rear lights will need to be the amber ones (not the red like US model) and the front lights will need to be changed for driving on the 'correct' side of the road ;).

 

You don't have to convert to RHD but you may wish to in future, but buying a rust free Z will save you in the long run and conversion costs shouldn't be too extreme if you're willing to do some of the work yourself and source the parts.

 

Bottom line is, I've thought about doing it myself but it might be better to find a local car that needs work and spending your money getting that up to your standard.

 

Choices, Choices... if you're looking for an import broker I can recommend someone though.

Posted

Hi Gav, Really appreciate the constructive comments unlike the others before you.

Wow guys way to come across as @ss-holes, well done.

 

Most 240z's locally I see are on club or historic rego (or used & set up for competition etc.) & 260z so far are all 2+2 which I definitely don't want. The one's I am interested in are snapped up straight away by someone else.

I am well aware of the age & condition these cars can be in.

 

Gav, before starting this thread I was in talks with a Craig from DIYImport (said he started J-spec) is this the same guy? https://www.facebook.com/diyimport

I've budgeted max $30k including broker fee's landed & complied.

 

I'm looking at Japan & US as well as local offerings in the meantime.

 

If I do decide to go a US car I'll keep it LHD, I've had plenty of experience driving LHD when I was living overseas.

  • Administrators
Posted

Hi Gav, Really appreciate the constructive comments unlike the others before you.

Wow guys way to come across as @ss-holes, well done.

 

Ahh you'll get used to Lurch, he's our resident grumpy pants. For him rust isn't an issue though, he repairs that stuff for breakfast.

 

Most 240z's locally I see are on club or historic rego (or used & set up for competition etc.) & 260z so far are all 2+2 which I definitely don't want. The one's I am interested in are snapped up straight away by someone else.

I am well aware of the age & condition these cars can be in.

 

I think it's also fair to say that many Z's were not treated very well in Australia due to the 'perceived Jap crap' that the old Datsun's had associated with them. Which seems to have changed a lot in recent years. Many were cheap fodder for the playboy's of the 70s and 80s who couldn't afford a Ferrari, Maserati, or Jaguar of the same vintage at the time and bought these as dispensable play things.

 

It's fair to say not many were kept very original, in the US though I see a lot of cars still in relatively original condition.

 

Gav, before starting this thread I was in talks with a Craig from DIYImport (said he started J-spec) is this the same guy? https://www.facebook.com/diyimport

I've budgeted max $30k including broker fee's landed & complied.

 

I don't think it's the same people. Kristian and Craig I believe run http://www.ironblockimports.com/ for the US side of the business.

 

$30k is plenty for a good Z imported. The upper price range for good Z's in the US seems to be $15-$16k for a good quality resto, but not a concourse car. But prices have been going up and demand recently seems to be pushing values higher.

 

I'm looking at Japan & US as well as local offerings in the meantime.

 

If I do decide to go a US car I'll keep it LHD, I've had plenty of experience driving LHD when I was living overseas.

 

Sounds like a good plan, if you haven't tried a wanted add in the classifieds it's worth doing. If people know someone is looking for a Z and has a decent budget like you do, it might encourage them to offer you a car if they are thinking of selling.

 

By the way did you see the red 1 on eBay I posted today? Could be a good car with a few things addressed.

Posted

I have seen the red one now you posted that link hehe

What things would need to be addressed? I'm fairly handy with tools and maintenance but body repairs & rust are not my forte.

I'll actually be putting a bid on that one, what other questions should I be asking the seller?

I noticed the bonnet doesn't quite line up + every time I see a dash mat on an ad I can't help but wonder if there are cracks underneath the pretty mat

 

Thanks again Gav

  • Moderators
Posted

I have seen the red one now you posted that link hehe

What things would need to be addressed? I'm fairly handy with tools and maintenance but body repairs & rust are not my forte.

I'll actually be putting a bid on that one, what other questions should I be asking the seller?

I noticed the bonnet doesn't quite line up + every time I see a dash mat on an ad I can't help but wonder if there are cracks underneath the pretty mat

 

Thanks again Gav

 

Gidday

 

Pretty good chance the dash will be cracked, but that can be fixed.

 

Panels out of alignment could just be bad alignment, but check for damage to the rails both at the rad support and where they meet the firewall - these are also prime spots for rust.

 

Insofar as to wha to ask the owner, tougher one, I prefer to form a judgement based on the entire situation ie.

Are there other cars around the house and what shape are they in?

Does the reason for selling make sense ?

Photos of previous work ?

If something looks to good, and probably a issue.

 

So much more but thats a start.

 

Good luck

 

Cheers

 

PB

 

 

  • Administrators
Posted

I like to see as many photos as possible.

 

Ask if he / she can supply photos of following areas:

 

1. Battery tray / firewall area (notorious for rusting out).

2. Rocker Panels / Sill Areas (lower front guards)

3. Rear hatch area / slam panel etc..

4. Floors

5. Doors / inner areas / door skins / top of door near window stainless trim always stress cracks.

6. Wheel house area usually rusts down the bottom in front of the rear wheel

7. Chassis rails - particularly under where seats are positioned, but also near front struts

8. Spare wheel area (although not a huge deal if it has a minor rust hole - as it can be taken out easily undoing spot welds).

9. Petrol filler area.

 

As Peter above mentioned I use other bits of meta data to determine what's going on with a car. The front bonnet may be mis-aligned due to the hinge itself being out of alignment more so than an indicator of accident damage.

 

In my opinion the more original a car is, the less it's been messed with and better it has been looked after. Photos hide a lot especially when taken from a distance, if the seller is honest they will be able to send you lots of detailed photos.

 

Ideally you want to see detailed photos of any restoration work that was done when it was repainted. Otherwise get someone to go have a look and take a fridge magnet with them. That should let you know how much filler is under the paint. :)

 

I've noticed the price has shot up in the last day, still 6 days to go interesting....

  • Administrators
Posted

Thanks Alan. A good case of looks OK in photos but probably got a lot of other things wrong with it.

Posted

Hey Guys, Can't thank you enough for the hints & tips. Really gives me an insight into what to look out for.

 

I'm not too concerned about the bid for the red one at this stage, all in all it seems a decent car, but I have to be realistic with what I am prepared to pay & not get carried away, I have an idea now of what it's worth after james aka cracker was kind enough to go have a look for me & get more photos

 

if I'm not successful with the red one I'll just go the import route.

If I am successful in getting the red one at a fair price I might even fly down to SA & drive it back to NSW  ;D

Posted

AVOID.

 

It's a sh*tbox.

Hi Alan, do you know the history of the car? If so could you please care to elaborate, it helps me learn what kinds of things to look out for. Thanks mate

  • Administrators
Posted

Good luck, it helps a lot when someone takes a look for you, especially someone who knows what to look for as problematic areas on a Z.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Go for it!

Do it!

Excellent idea!

They'll be perfect mint factory cars there!

Please do come back on and, in great detail, let us know the costs involved, the costs to fly over and back, and in locating, inspecting, etc.

The time involved etc.

 

Vs,

waiting for the 1/2dozen very very nice ones that come up for sale here each year.

 

They are becoming  up to 40 years old now, they wont be perfect, just like a us as we get old.

Seeing as how you asked :P

 

So guys I ended up importing... but from Japan. RHD for the win!

It's not mint but damn good condition for a 38 year old car.

Basically a rust free straight body.

Took it for a spin around the block this evening & the engine/gearbox is running well. Idle & low revs is a bit rough but nothing some fresh petrol, new spark plugs & new oil can't fix  :)

 

20140627_182920800x450_zpscd673920.jpg

 

I imported it through Craig of Diyimports https://www.facebook.com/diyimport (Highly, Highly recommended) It's the same Craig from J-spec imports & Ironlady/Ironblock imports.

Basically paid the broker fee & he started hunting around for me

Helped me secure my car from auction & under my budget too!

Worked out the shipping & compliance & delivery.

All up the process took two months from starting the car hunt to delivering to my driveway. Simple! :)

Cost me $24k all up landed & complied, delivered to me.

 

Vs.

The shitload of 2+2's for sale on carsales/ebay/gumtree no offence to 2+2 owners, just not my cup of tea

the rusted out examples

the nice ones out of my price range

The 1/2 dozen very very nice ones that come up once in a blue moon for a decent price that get snapped up straight away before I can finish reading the ad.

 

Am I a happy Chappy? You betcha! ;D

Posted

That's great news, congrats on the purchase, more pics please  :)

 

Can you share more details about the import process, rough costs besides the price of the car.

 

"Rust Free" should be thought of as no visible rust, it's a 40+yr old car, with no factory rust protection. The only ones that are rust free have full restoration/pics of the body un-picked, then repaired, rust proofed, THEN restored. Hence the big $ for fully restored cars

 

Thanks, Gareth.

Posted

Congrats! Looks like you didn't mess about. Hope to meet you and see the car soon. :)

Thanks George, can't wait to start cruising about in the ol girl & coming out to meets hehe! Cheers

 

That's great news, congrats on the purchase, more pics please  :)

 

Can you share more details about the import process, rough costs besides the price of the car.

 

"Rust Free" should be thought of as no visible rust, it's a 40+yr old car, with no factory rust protection. The only ones that are rust free have full restoration/pics of the body un-picked, then repaired, rust proofed, THEN restored. Hence the big $ for fully restored cars

 

Thanks, Gareth.

Hi Gareth,

Yeah hehe I know what you mean about the rust free definition. I've inspected a few local examples to know by now :)

I'll have a better look tomorrow, literally got it off the back of the delivery truck 3 hours ago but so far no bubbles, there's a small paint chip on the front driver side guard that has surface rust. Looked in the hatch, wheel wells, guards, engine bay, peeked under the car as best I could without jacking it up on stands.

There's some newer looking paint on the passenger side floor behind the seat which could have been some rust prevention but otherwise looking good so far!

 

Customs Inspection, Compliance, shipping & delivery all up cost me $4k so the car itself ended up being $20k at auction. Everything was organised by Craig from DIY imports & the fees for shipping, customs & compliance all came in one invoice from Autohub who are a shipping agent so the process was really simple & straight forward.

It was literally a few emails back and forth between the import broker about my budget & what I was after, we found my car going up for auction in Japan so I set a maximum budget I would spend for the bid & I got the winning bid under my budget I set.

From start to finish it was only 2 months, the length of time varies based on what kind of car you want etc. It was my first time importing a car & it couldn't have been more simple & drama free

Posted

Nice one mate. I think a much more astute idea grabbing one from Japan!!! Very interested in the process also, please be detailed!!!!

Posted

http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,14510.0.html

 

I posted a few more pics in the link above

 

anyone interested in the import process there's plenty of info & brokers around. The main ones that  I have seen on other forums with a decent reputation are Ironchef & Importmonster etc.

I used DIYimports http://www.diyimport.com.au/ Craig has been importing cars for a long time & he's a genuinely good guy to deal with from experience, always happy to answer my questions & explain the process in detail

 

Cheers guys

  • Administrators
Posted

I looked at that car when it was up for auction. I've got some photos of it, including the auction sheet if you want it or maybe already have it?

 

Is it a L20 (2 litre) S30z? Looks like you got the Japanese Market Mesh Grille and Calendar Clock :). Glad you're happy.

 

 

Posted

Hi Gav, Yep got the Auction sheet, inspection report & de-registration certificate :)

 

It's an L20 with EFI emission gear. It still pulls surprisingly well but I plan to build up an L28 down the track. Starting up a shopping list haha

 

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