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MikeFarkas

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MikeFarkas last won the day on February 24

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About MikeFarkas

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  1. The other mistake I made was not getting the gear stick out. That made it 100 times harder than it should have been.
  2. Its a bit hard to tell, but that last picture ("Side View") has a slightly different hew on the pillar and up the side. I was being super careful when I welded near there not to get that hot enough to melt, because I didn't want to have to do any lead work. Unfortunately, I think I am now committed to taking the roof skin off so I will be doing the lead-work anyway. I guess the next question is: does it need to be lead? Are there "flexible bondo" options that would achieve the same (or better) results??
  3. Chapter 9 - Roofus Interruptus Last chapter we went in fast forward to cover the half-done rear hatch, and the fully done front guards. This chapter, I want to cover an area that I have been too afraid to do since the beginning - the upper corner of the windscreen and roof. Why have I been too afraid to tackle this? Well, when I took the sunroof out (yep - I've got one of those...) I noticed that the roof itself was paper thin! Welding onto this was going to be nigh impossible, and unfortunately I had a repair to do...
  4. I think so! I will enter tomorrow and probably do the 50km. My good bike is getting a fork and shock service (which gets sent down to Melbourne) so I'll be doing it on my old 29er hard tail. Also not 100% sure if I should enter my son too, given he's in year 11 and they get even more homework. We'll see tomorrow night! Are you going to head out?
  5. Chapter 8 - The Guards of the Galaxy Last chapter we tackled the RH rocker panel and rear dog leg. This chapter, I'm going to tackle the hatch and both guards. Why? Because I'm sick of doing side-situps; I now have the neck of a formula 1 driver! In between racing mountain bikes with my son, interviewing for and getting a new job, driving down to Canberra to help my bro build his house extensions, and being a dad, I've been working on Zee. My Son and I racing in 38 degree heat in Canberra.
  6. Retrospectively - playing catchup. I think I might just go fast forward for a couple of chapters, if only so that I can get some feedback on some of my current difficult areas that I'm working on! In terms of progress, I think I am about 11 months ahead of you but way less organised! (plus I've been racing mountain bikes and helping my brother build his house extensions).
  7. Instructions? Instructions? We doan need no stinkin' instructions! (mind you, that would have been super nice to know before I had to reverse engineer it all...)
  8. Yeah - there's 5 from that angle. The 6th (which was buggered on mine) was the top/right over there, inbetween the door and the B Pillar. I'm not sure what its called, but its that nice flowing bit that flows onto the rocker panel. The Dog Leg spot welds onto that. This bit in this first photo...
  9. Indeed! There are 6 layers down there to get right - I did similar on my Dog Legs (although I didn't have to replace the frame rail). The biggest pain was that the first layer is the frame rail, second layer is the wheel well (which drives how far the final layer, the dog leg, sticks out). Then goes the B Pillar thing, then the rocker, then more B pillar, then rocker. If you get the second layer wrong (I was only patching, not replacing) then it can cause your rocker panel to stick out too far or not enough.
  10. So, to paraphrase, are you taking a rocker panel off, then replacing the outside frame rail, the welding the new rocker panel back on, then doing the other side? If so, that sounds about right from what I have seen. I think CBR Jeff did a similar thing on his car.
  11. Great tip! Glue it I will! And thanks for the encouragement! I'm definitely aiming for quality over speed; if I was being paid for the job, I'd be flat broke by now!
  12. Chapter 7 - Cave Diving Last chapter we attempted the rear valance, and barely gained a pass-mark. This chapter, I'm going to tackle the other rear-dog leg. As far as rocker panels go on Datsuns, this one is pretty clean. There are a few bumps to sort out underneath, and that small rust hole towards the rear where the B Pillar joins the rocker panel. Tincy wincy little hole. Why do the 240Z's rust here? While repairing this area, I formulated the following theo
  13. Thanks Lurch. I had heard it only twice, but there was never any followup or specific details. Every other piece of advice said that "lap welds on floor pans will invite rust" - not what a Datsun needs more of. BTW - I've been looking back at some of your resto's that you documented here. Loving your work!!
  14. I tried searching for this, but doesn't seem to have been asked yet. I have heard rumours that in Australia we have to lap weld floor pans, not butt weld - is this correct? If so, does anyone have a link to any standards for car restos, as there may be other things that one needs to consider when repairing a car? Cheers, Mike
  15. Chapter 6 - A 50yo Kardashian Last chapter, I recovered from a rust-induced coma to fix the back LH dog leg and everything lurking behind it. Now its time to slide around to the back of the car. On one of the many Z car Facebook groups, they occasionally do "Dat A$$ Fridays", where members post fine pictures of their S30 posteriors - wingless, bumper-less, beads removed, freshly polished with the photo taken in some kind of dramatic setting to accentuate the beauty of the Z.
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